Check book restorations.
#85139
07/07/08 11:19 AM
07/07/08 11:19 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA
moparmojo
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Ok, I am still contemplating how best to work the resurrection of my 70 Challenger Convertible. Just wondering, from the guys who sent their bodies/metal work out to be completed by professionals how was tackling the rest of the job? How hard is it to put a car together if you send all the say components out to be restored and you install everything? Or how many guys are doing their own component restoration? Just wanting to hear some personal experience. I have just recently come to realize that paying a pro sometimes really is the best thing. I always tell people, I was born with the lazy gene, however, I was also born with the cheap gene, and it sometimes/many times forces me to do work I really don't want to do.
Last edited by moparmojo; 07/08/08 10:44 AM.
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85140
07/07/08 12:00 PM
07/07/08 12:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,225 Bloomington, IN
HoosierTA
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well genetically were related. I have sent the TA off and had work done. The $$$ adds up quickly.
I am about to jump in to my R/T and will likely do as much as possible myself. I will be replacing the rear quarters, inner fenders, dutchman, etc. The cost is too prohibitive to farm out that stuff. many components you can do as you go along.
From what I see of the picture, your car looks pretty good- why restore it and be afraid to drive it?
'70 Challenger R/T 383 '16 Hemi Durango SSV (work vehicle) '15 Ram Police SSV
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: HoosierTA]
#85142
07/07/08 01:52 PM
07/07/08 01:52 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA
moparmojo
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Hoosier thanks but I'm afraid I've shown you the "good" side ( if there is one). The car as some pretty serious cancer. Trunk floor is like 50% there. The ya-hoo I bought the car from patched over the rust holes with some sort of alumium tape, then bondo'd over it. I am fearful there is more of that in the car. The driver door jamb has a stress crack in it probably from the big block/small block suspension combo (not good). I know the inner floors need replacing and I am sure the engine bay needs work too. The metal over the wheel wells on the quarters have rust all the way around. So quarters probably need replacing as well. When I got the car it looked like a 15 footer, I knew it had some rust. I drove it a couple years as my daily driver, but time, whether, and that poor body work took a toll on the car. Then some kid T boned me in the door. It has basically been sitting for the last couple 9years. I have a stroker motor all ready for it, but think it really needs metal work first and just trying to figure out how best to get it done. On the one hand I think I am capable of doing (and learning) how to do floor plans myself, but it may just be a better idea to farm it out. Here's a couple other pics. [image]
Last edited by moparmojo; 07/07/08 01:54 PM.
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85144
07/07/08 03:07 PM
07/07/08 03:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,225 Bloomington, IN
HoosierTA
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Well, that does need some attention, but aside from body prep and paint, I would be inclined to do it myself.
one other thing I plan is to buy new front fenders and sell the others. I figure the balance of money and time spent getting the other fenders lined out is worth the expense.
'70 Challenger R/T 383 '16 Hemi Durango SSV (work vehicle) '15 Ram Police SSV
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85145
07/07/08 03:14 PM
07/07/08 03:14 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,526 Tenn.
jrwoodjoe
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Here is how I am doing my current project.
I am dismantling everything and trying to restore the pieces (or buy the replacement items if it is a wear item) as I go. So the dismantling is going pretty slow. The upside to this is that I am able to restore items in units so that I will be less likely to forget them down the road. Also, I am bagging and tagging everything and taking photos or making drawings as need to job my memory come assembly time. While I can remove and install the drivetrain, I am not comfortable with doing an engine rebuild (mainly because I don't have the time or or money to re-fix it should I mess something up), so I leave drivetrain things to those who do it on a more regular basis. I only pay people for things that I can't do or can't do to my level of satisfaction. I tend to major bodywork and painting to professionals because I would never get it good enough. I do, however, have body panels media blasted and primed and oversee that element to save money. It's really a matter of how much you are willing to do that will enable you to spend less on the restoration.
Your car doesn't look that bad. I had to laugh when I saw your dented door because I have the undented version of it same color and stripe sitting in my garage as a back-up panel for my project. I would love to do a vert. I think it would be really fun. Just get motivated and do it. Carve out some time even if it's an hour a day or week and get going.
I would love to see your car done. Good luck with your project.
Joe
65 Barracuda 70 Challenger
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: HoosierTA]
#85146
07/07/08 03:18 PM
07/07/08 03:18 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,066 portland or
new bee
Richard Cranium
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Richard Cranium
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I paid to have all the bodywork done on my Super Bee. I figured assembling the car would be a snap if this much was done. It didn't work out that way. You may find that the toughest part of a restoration is the assembly process. Some things just don't fit the same as before, things get misplaced or lost,or you might inflict damage to the fresh new body while installing components. All this happened to me, but it was my first restoration. Case in point: The people who did the body did not test fit the interior metal above the vinyl panels in the back seat. It just did not seem neccesary. When I installed them, freshly painted, it did not occur to me that the inner door metal might collide with them...which it did. It set me back time and more money. In the end, the car is looking stunning, and all the hardships of some of the seemingly simple tasks are behind me. The next car I do will have the bodywork farmed out to someone else. This time, however, I will be well aware of the potential pitfalls and will make sure pre-fitting occurs. I really enjoy the assembly process (big model car). I just don't want to experiment with something like bodywork.
*1969 383 4sp. Super Bee *1966 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GT *1965 Porsche 356C *2004 VW Passat Wagon *2004 Mini Cooper S *1967 Jaguar E-Type FHC
A mall cop is in our midst.
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85147
07/07/08 03:33 PM
07/07/08 03:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,135 Kingsburg Calif.
Quikshft
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You have the lazy gene and also the cheap gene, that makes us brothers of some sort. Knowing my genetic makeup, which also includes the 'desires rarity' gene, I picked a project which is not numbers matching and was in poor enough condition to satisfy my cheep gene makeup. My car had been hit lightly in the passenger door at one time, then poorly repaired. And, as a basket case non matching major project which most people would walk from I figure I could do it justice with my abilities. I also have the 'do it yourself' gene, which I believe is a sub-gene of the 'cheep' gene. I am doing everything myself, you could check out my Ramcharger airbox resto thread for an example...to cheep to buy another one. The car is worth my efforts, it's a '70 6V Superbee, auto, 3.23's, buckets, console, power disc brakes, etc. Hemi orange with a Gatorgrain vinyl top. If it had been a complete project just needing resto I probably would have been the one walking away, but as it is I'm making things nice, not concourse but nice. I want to drive this car and enjoy it without worrying about it too much so a rock chip or some wear isn't going to be the end of the world. Good luck with your project, I'd take on as much as you have time for and when you run out of time, use money for a substitute.
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85149
07/07/08 04:16 PM
07/07/08 04:16 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley
RodStRace
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Quote:
The car as some pretty serious cancer. Trunk floor is like 50% there.... I am fearful there is more of that in the car. The driver door jamb has a stress crack in it... I know the inner floors need replacing and I am sure the engine bay needs work too. The metal over the wheel wells on the quarters have rust all the way around...
Considering that it's a convert (not the worth,more about the extra parts and fitting to a flexy shell) and that you already know that all the floor, both quarters and outer wheelhouses, plus other hidden stuff, I'd suggest that Co. that will do all the metal work for 15K. Heck of a lot easier to budget for a firm amount, even if it's more than some local bids before the car is stripped.
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: moparmojo]
#85151
07/07/08 11:49 PM
07/07/08 11:49 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA
moparmojo
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On a side note, anyone have an idea what just purchasing all new metal would cost for an 70 challenger. When I say all, I mean, inner floors, trunck floor, quarters, extensions, inner outer wheel houses, inner fenders, fenders, hood, lid, cowl, rockers, ect that are available. Anyone have an idea or priced it out recently?
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: Challenger 1]
#85155
07/08/08 10:43 AM
07/08/08 10:43 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA
moparmojo
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Ok, thanks for the heads up. I hadn't tried to adjust the size. Hopefully this is doable for you. I think Mancini has good advice regarding only replacing what is needed. I guess the real test will be when it finally gets stripped down to bare metal, then I can see what I am working with or they will be working with. Like I said earlier, the car is probably full of putty here and there and I would like to remedy that, bring some strength back to the weak body, add subframe connectors, and beef up the suspension before I throw the stroker motor in. But I guess (from a novice perspective)at what point does a person deam a panel not salvagable and go to the trouble of replacing the whole thing?
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Re: Check book restorations.
[Re: Mike Mancini]
#85156
07/08/08 12:12 PM
07/08/08 12:12 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134 Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
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Quote:
None of the items you mentioned are salvagable on your car? If you'd like some advice, replace only what you have to, save as much OEM sheet metal as possible. Don't make it a replac-er-ation if you don't have to.
Mike Mancini
That's good advice. With that thought in mind, on my car we saved as much as possible: We used full skins for small quarter patches and cut a 1 1/2" x 3" pce out of the driver's side floor replacement panel to patch the original. You do NOT want to throw out original rust free metal if you can avoid it.
Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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