Quote:

---

If your car is not painted, I would use the XV radiator brace and shock braces. I would go Hotchkis for UCA's and Subframe connectors and get their opinion on T-bars and springs. After riding in their T/A Challenger I wouldn't consider anything else. BTW that's exactly what I'm putting in my 69 Charger minus the shock braces because it's already painted. I did box the LCA's. Mike

---

Quote:

---

Why Hotchkis subframe connectors instead of the XV product?

---

Quote:

---

I am on the fence about the XV inner fender braces, engine bay brace, and tubular radiator support. Are these worth the money?

---

Quote:

---

Sounds like a good start. For the front, agree with Feets, a bigger T bar would help. 1" wouldn't be too much with good shocks to control things. The frame connectors and boxed LCA's will help a lot. The shock towers don't take a lot of load on a MOPAR with T bars so I wouldn't bother with the brace. One additional opton to tighten things up is to get your K re-enforced and gusseted. I'd do that before hacking the radiator yoke. See Firm Feel's website. I don't know the "just tubular" brand of upper control arm. Hopefully they have extra camber and caster built in. You'll need it to get a good alignment.

You didn't mention tires. Are you sticking with 15" or something bigger?

---

Quote:

---

I just don't want to be the guy that "opened up the magazine and bought a weird assortment of mismatched parts".

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I just don't want to be the guy that "opened up the magazine and bought a weird assortment of mismatched parts".

---

If you go with this plan, you will become that guy. You have a nice list of stuff, but way more than you need of some things and not enough of others, IMO.

First, chassis rigidity is the foundation that everything else is built off of. It is the same as a house foundation, compromise here, and everything else is less than optimal. As such, I'd go sub frame connectors, inner front fender braces, radiator yoke brace. View the video on chassis stiffening at the XV website to see that these pieces are worth. I wouldn't bother with the XV subframe conenctors, but at least some sort of weld in unit is a big improvement.

Tubular arms, don't need em. Four wheel disc, don't need em. Just stick with big sized front ones. Drop spindles, don't need em. This is a wad of cash you don't need to spend on a cruiser unless you just want to to look cool.

I'd suggest, in addition to the bracing above,1.0 or 1.12 t-bars. As much shock as your willing to buy, and the best approach for these are the Hotchkis or Firm Feel Bilsteins. Certainly front and rear sway bars. The MP springs are nice, I like them, but many on here don't. Poly bushings, and a good alignment, being -.5 camber, as much positve caster to 4* and 1/32 to 1/8 toe in.

With that you will save yourself huge amounts of money, time, effort, and have a car that works as well as a later model, which will make crusing to shows that much more pleasurable.

Now, if you getting into aggressive driving or autocrossing, then that whole mix changes.

---

Excellent bang for you buck plan and using you money wisely !!

Quote:

---

Here's some input.

Anybody boxing LCA that is not running 200mph on the Daytona high banks is wasting time, money, and weight.

---

Quote:

---

I have yet to be convinced aftermarket stiffened rad supports make, and little bang for buck, any real sense. Litte/few forces are input into the chassis in front of the K member, except for the sway bar, which is still behind the rad support. Much more chassis stiffness is gained adding bracing rearward. Check out most racing tube chassis cars, they have little bracing in this area except for resisting hard bumping/crashes. However if marketing expensive chassis addons requiring flash factor and videos, for those with little engineering background is required, then by all means be the first on the block with an alum formed lower rad support.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Here's some input.

Anybody boxing LCA that is not running 200mph on the Daytona high banks is wasting time, money, and weight.

---

I like a 1x3/4" strap of scrap steel on the back of the LCA to tighten the looseness in the adjuster arm. And another 1x3/4" strap near under the sway bar braket to support the over double sway bar spring rate when using 1 1/8" and more front sway bars.

Quote:

---

I have yet to be convinced aftermarket stiffened rad supports make, and little bang for buck, any real sense. Litte/few forces are input into the chassis in front of the K member, except for the sway bar, which is still behind the rad support. Much more chassis stiffness is gained adding bracing rearward. Check out most racing tube chassis cars, they have little bracing in this area except for resisting hard bumping/crashes. However if marketing expensive chassis addons requiring flash factor and videos, for those with little engineering background is required, then by all means be the first on the block with an alum formed lower rad support.

---

Why did the factory add those fender to cowl braces on 72 B-bodies and ~74 A-body??

XV did put that car on a 4 post rig. IIRC, you could see the flexing in the video.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have yet to be convinced aftermarket stiffened rad supports make, and little bang for buck, any real sense. Litte/few forces are input into the chassis in front of the K member, except for the sway bar, which is still behind the rad support. Much more chassis stiffness is gained adding bracing rearward. Check out most racing tube chassis cars, they have little bracing in this area except for resisting hard bumping/crashes. However if marketing expensive chassis addons requiring flash factor and videos, for those with little engineering background is required, then by all means be the first on the block with an alum formed lower rad support.

---

Why did the factory add those fender to cowl braces on 72 B-bodies and ~74 A-body??

XV did put that car on a 4 post rig. IIRC, you could see the flexing in the video.

---