I'm looking at used race trailers and need some help and suggestions. This is my first trailer and I'm not too savvy as to what to avoid when looking at used. I'd like something enclosed and big enough for my 69 charger, tools, etc... I found the one listed below that has living quarters, but it has been on the market for a LONG time and seems a little long for a bumper hitch. I'm towing with a 2006 2500 Cummins.

What options do you feel are necessary?

What do you wish you had in your current trailer?

What do I need to look at when looking at used trailers (do the frames tweak, brakes, axles, etc...)?


Craigs list add for the one I mentioned above. It's a little out of my price range and seems to be a bit long for a bumper hitch:
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READY FOR DUNE SEASON!!!!!...I recently purchased a new toy hauler and I have no use for two of them. It's a Total of 38 Foot Long, The Toy Hauler has 30 Foot of cargo room alone.. It Can easily haul a long travel Sand Car and Rhino with no problem!

**INFO**
Full size Shower.
Full size Toilet.
Ton's of Cabinets
Diamond Plate Flooring with Carpet up front.
Refigerator
Microwave
Kitchen Sink and Counter Top
Holds a 110 gallons of water
40 gal. black tank.
A/C
Heat
Big Onan 7000 watt Generator with Electric Start
Dual Batteries
Electric Tongue Jack
Triple Axles with 6 NEW Tires.
Custom Paint
A&E 24 Foot Awning.

It Cost over 40,000.00 to build

what did they haul in that thing barbie dolls

I agree! The color stinks!

Depends how far you live from the track and what type of terrain you will travel thru to get to track if its some distance

If its a short tow the 2500 will get it done I'm sure

I have a trailer somewhat like that mine is 30 feet and I have a long hitch

I pull mine with a dually, I tried the 2500 deal and wore me out if I went any distance

That is a very long trailer for a bumper pull. I've always thought 30 to 32 ft should be max on one. With a trailer that big be sure and check the specs of the truck against the loaded trailer specs. Nice looking rig tho!!!

Living quarters suck in enclosed car haulers. It's to small to be comfortable, there's never enough room for the car, and they are heavy which makes them hard to tow. I have known and hung out in trailers with LQ. Both people I know who had them got rid of them because of what I mentioned. Did I mention that they are hard to sell also without taking a big loss.

Tips for used trailers, at least 16" OC for the supports, floor and walls.

16" wheels for sure with the heaviest axles you can find.

Don't buy a black one unless you want to die from heat and have the sides oil canning all the time.

Looking down the sides of a trailer will tell you alot about the quaility also. Wobby frames will cause the siding to be wavy.

Buy one 2 feet longer than you need now.

Never buy a 20-22' footer because they are too small and have no resale value.

Aluiminum trailers are the bomb and have great resale value if you can afford them.

Flush mounted door hinges and door handles are nice and better than the cam locks.

I'd get a flat floor because I have owned 3 trailers with beaver tails and a flat floor is so much better.

I just sold our 30' trailer..had AC, heat, 'L' shaped upper and lower cabinets with 2 full sized tool pull out drawers permanately mounted..had a nice Onan generator, a deep well with 2 spare tires..Florescent lighting thru out along with 2 500 watt quartz exterior lites...the Trailer is insulated...
has 3 6200 lb axles w/6 wheel brakes...

was a pleasure to tow with my 3500 dually...the guy that bought it, towed it home using a 1/2 ton...he had at least 60 miles to travel and called me when he got home to inform me he had no incident...he didnt have the trailer brakes hooked up either...that took guts..

I do have a 24' trailer that towed excellently...for me after have 2 large trailers , I'll be sticking with the smaller ones and in the near future downsizing my truck to a 2500HD diesel as well...love those diesels..

I would also avoid any trailers where the owner installed his own cabinets, unless they are aluiminum and are designed for trailers. Ordinary cabinets are too heavy and don't hold up to the road vibration.

Light weight is what you want in a trailer, not lot's of homemade add ons which usally are very heavy.

My first 26' United Expressline trailer, I think it was a very good trailer for the money. It was called a Silver Star sold by Bruce Litton in Indy.
It was too much trailer for the 86 2500 360 truck. This picture was taken in S carolina and by the time I got home to Cincy I had burnt 2 valves in the motor going over the mountains.



Then I bought a POS Haulmark 30' from a friend and sold it shortly there after.
Then had a 40 United Expressline goose trailer that served me well.

Then stepped up to a Gold Rush 49' goose. Used it for 10 years and sold it for what I paid for it. (57K)
Look at the sides of this Gold Rush, at this point it had over 80K miles on it. Straight as a arrow.

Awesome info guys! Thanks! So, should I stay away from Haulmark?

What do you guys think about these? http://www.racingjunk.com/category/50/New_Trailers/post/2005117/2011-24FT-RACE-READY-TRAILER.html

That sounds pretty cheap. I would think it is built cheaply. I had a 28ft Hallmark and it was the worst (it was the Elite 2 their top model, heavy) then I had a 26ft Vintage (heavy but nice), then I had a 28ft Classic (the best pulling stell trailer I owned) and now I own a 40ft Exsiss aluminum gooseneck rig. The exsiss is by far the best, if you can afford one. I have heard Pace is a good trailer. Hope this helps.

No matter what, get a trailer with 6,000 or 7,000 lb axles. It will be cheaper in the long run because tires and bearings will hold up better and longer. And get one a couple of feet longer than you think you need.

Bought a King America made in Ga. It is not a 'top of the line' trailer, but a 24' for $5000. was in my budget. 10,000 gross rated, brakes on all wheels, 12v lites inside, roof vent and spare tire. Used it 5-6 weekends so far and have no problems. I bought it locally, but they can be picked up at factory cheaper due to delivery charges.

After some work..

What did you use on the floor?

Hauled cars with a buddy of mine for a few years off & on, he did about 100,000 miles/year. His trailer was as bare inside as he could get it (less weight), had 12" on-center pillars, a steel frame, and the biggest axles he could get, IIRC 7000 lbs. Beaver tail, so we could load really low cars. Electric winch. Ran Cooper tires. Serviced the bearings a few times a year. Never had a problem. I think it was 20', again for weight, he didn't work out of it like a race trailer. He previously had an aluminum frame trailer but it cracked. This one went pretty close to a million miles before he retired it, and it was still solid, with straight walls.

Oh, some other things: no lights attached to the roof, where they could come loose and fall on the car. And driving a car in is a pain when you try to get out unless you have a left door, so having a winch was great.