well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
#836740
10/23/10 01:47 PM
10/23/10 01:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,518 Indiana
MonGoo$e
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I posted about a week and a half ago about some issues I was having, car would turn, and not start. Fuel was getting there fine. I ended up replaced the ECU, the Ballast Resistor, the rotor, the coil. Well I noticed I was getting fire to the Distributor from the coil, but not to the plug from Dist.
Well last saturday I pulled Dist, checked air gap, got it to .08 tightened it and reinstalled it. my mistake, it was backwards, BUT, it backfired, so I flipped it 180, and it started, and ran. ran great actually, althoug it seemed to start after I let off the key. Basically it'd turn and turn, but let off key and it's kick. Weird, it's a new Ignition switch? anyways. sunday all day, drove it around, it did that but it ran fine until night time ofcourse, I go to leave someones house, I fire it up and it stalls out on me. i start it with a little trouble, and I get about a 1/4 mile down the road and I'm fighting to keep it running, it's acting like it's running out of gas..then it dies..and won;t fire, check carb, i have gas, pull plug wire and find a ground, no fire, but I still get it at the coil-to-dist.
Today I changed the cap on this new MP distributor. Nothing, just turns.
It has to be in the distributor, right? Like the pick-up? it's the only thing left to my knowledge
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836741
10/23/10 01:52 PM
10/23/10 01:52 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154 bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
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i would check for a signal at the plug TO the distributor before i throw more parts at it. i would also check for rust/oil/ whatever build up on the 8 points that the pickup senses.
Last edited by mikemee1331; 10/23/10 02:00 PM.
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: mikemee1331]
#836743
10/23/10 02:16 PM
10/23/10 02:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,518 Indiana
MonGoo$e
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Quote:
i would check for a signal at the plug TO the distributor before i throw more parts at it. i would also check for rust/oil/ whatever build up on the 8 points that the pickup senses.
you mean the wire harness plug?
I checked the bulkhead, I have a new harness in the engine bay, and the dash harness contacts were clean. everything there is nice and snug.
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836744
10/23/10 02:25 PM
10/23/10 02:25 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,847 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Quote:
Quote:
i would check for a signal at the plug TO the distributor before i throw more parts at it. i would also check for rust/oil/ whatever build up on the 8 points that the pickup senses.
you mean the wire harness plug?
I checked the bulkhead, I have a new harness in the engine bay, and the dash harness contacts were clean. everything there is nice and snug.
Did you check for power to the ignition during cranking? Use a test light. Position it so you can see through the windshield. The key to your problem is in this statement:
"althoug it seemed to start after I let off the key"
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836748
10/23/10 02:40 PM
10/23/10 02:40 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,847 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Quote:
well now it doesn't start at all, but I'm guessing you mean that when it was doing that it was some sort of link to that issue?
Yes---If just when you let go of the key you seem to get a split second of ignition (while the engine cranking comes to a halt, but its not enough to actually start the car) its because when you "let go of the key" you are switch to the "run" circuit--which IS getting power.
Another way to test would be to turn the key to run and jump the starter relay in order to crank the motor---bet it starts! (make sure its not in gear)
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: CYACOP]
#836759
10/23/10 05:12 PM
10/23/10 05:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,509 Candler,NC / Myrtle Beach, SC
JDMopar
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Quote:
Its the pick up coil in the distributor. I had similar issues and mine tested bad with an ohm meter. 400-600 ohms is where it should be.
I've had the same problem before, and beat my brains out trying to fix it! Change the pickup and star wheel...and us a BRASS feeler gauge to set it. You will kill the new pickup with a steel feeler gauge. ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Twocents.gif)
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: Mopar_Country]
#836760
10/23/10 05:16 PM
10/23/10 05:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,518 Indiana
MonGoo$e
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Quote:
When we went through this last week, that is what I suggested as well. Mongoose, you need to get a voltmeter and check for ohm's and ac voltage. You should get 375 to 450 ohms when tested and 1 volt AC when you spin the dizzy. If you find that to the issue take you're meter to the store with you and test the new one at least for ohms before you leave the store.
yeah i remember you suggesting that, I think it was my own sillyness thinking "oh it's a new part, how can it be bad internally" But I remembered it's a MP piece..
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836762
10/23/10 05:27 PM
10/23/10 05:27 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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you have fire from the coil to dist secondary wire (the dist end) held 1/4" from ground sparking repeatedly when someone cranks it w the key but no fire at the plugs when you plug this wire back in the center cap terminal & go to start it w the key? or do you mean you have fire at the plugs but it will not start? On the reluctor I'd turn the timing marks to 10 BTDC on #1 compression & check if the rotor is pretty close to being under the #1 cap terminal and the reluctor is very near dead even w the magnet slot as it fires just after the reluctor blade moves away (in the direction of rotation as you know) from the magnet. this'll tell you that your initial and phasing are close. The fighting to keep it running sure sounds like classic ECU failure & it's possible for the 2nd one to be bad. 4 pin ECU? Still no go, jump fire from the starter relay large batt terminal to (A) the "point" of the pentastar connector on the ECU (all a 4 pin ECU needs) and (B) fire to the upstream side of the ballast and (C) a jumper from the downstream side of the ballast to the coil positive pri terminal. (D) Jump the starter at the starter relay & lets get this thing going. 4 pin ECU only needs fire at 1 terminal (the "point"), the coil only needs fire to the positive pri terminal (either full voltage in "start" or ballast reduced in "run") and the ECU only needs to be triggered by the dist to make/break the coil negative pri terminal to ground (& the ECU case grounded well) and the dist pickup only needs to trigger the ECU to make/break the coils' aforementioned neg pri to ground. It must start! EDIT you would set the timing marks at your initial amt rather than the 10 I stated (if it gets to that point).
Last edited by RapidRobert; 10/23/10 05:43 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: Twostick]
#836773
10/23/10 08:32 PM
10/23/10 08:32 PM
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Posts: 4,518 Indiana
MonGoo$e
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I'll look into the TQ issue, i had DemonSizzler go through it but the bowl seems a little "aged" so to speak.
It started, and I took it out for about an hour, no issues with that part of it really.. shut it down a couple times and it starter right back up, had to adjust idle setting to get it right.
Bugs me that i can't really "drive it" though, i put 93 in it with some octane boost, timing is at about 10+ initial on this stock dist. it likes to ping when under a load so I have to grandma it everywhere. Along with vibration in drivetrain and a "thud thud thud somewhere in the rear when i brake for a stop..lol I guess I'll get it all figured out, maybe go for a colder plug first...
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836776
10/23/10 11:49 PM
10/23/10 11:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Well we got it running. I dont think those octane boosters do much. Might need to proportion in some race gas then you can get on it & enjoy it. EDIT know that pinging is VERY damaging & must be taken care of
Last edited by RapidRobert; 10/23/10 11:51 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: MonGoo$e]
#836778
10/24/10 12:17 PM
10/24/10 12:17 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216 Under My Car
Mopar_Country
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Under My Car
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Quote:
Bugs me that i can't really "drive it" though, i put 93 in it with some octane boost, timing is at about 10+ initial on this stock dist. it likes to ping when under a load so I have to grandma it everywhere.
Have you checked you're harmonic balancer to be sure it has not slipped? It is possible that you ave it more advanced than you think. Pull #1 plug and bring it up to TDC on compression stroke and see where you're mark is in relation to the 0 on the block. Just a thought.
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Re: well, my cars ignition completely has me stumped.
[Re: JDMopar]
#836779
10/24/10 12:40 PM
10/24/10 12:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,270 Missouri
MY340
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Had some weird starting issues when I first bought my Duster like no fire and starting when I just let go of the key. I changed the ECU but still had issues. I have the 4 prong resistor and two of the leads were swapped when I checked them against the FSM electrical schematic which I believe was my whole problem.
1970 FE5 Duster 360/904/3.91's SOLD
1973 TB3 SpaceDuster 340/4spd/4.10's SOLD
Moparless for now but when the opportunity is right I'll have another one.
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