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Mig welding Q&A
#814021
09/25/10 04:27 PM
09/25/10 04:27 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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I have one big problem when MIG welding. I use a helmet with an auto-darkening lens. While welding, I can't see the path I'm suppose to take when running a bead. I see the bright glare of the arc but ouside of that it's pitch black. Inevitably I go off track, even short runs. Example:  The only two things that I can think of to improve that would be: 1. Get a lens with a lower rating but I'm not interested in going even more blind 2. Shine more light on the work but seems kinda dumb when the glare of the arc is so damn intense anyway. Any hints?  I won't be happy until I can do this:  and not this:  
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Re: Mig welding Q&A
[Re: Commando1]
#814024
09/25/10 06:06 PM
09/25/10 06:06 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,098
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,098
Ontario, Canada
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I do a LOT of mig welding and know just what you're talking about. Here's my solution ...
1) back your head away further - there is no need to have your face any closer than 18". This will also mean breathing less smoke!
2) when possible, watch the weld more from the open side.
3) set the shade around 10
4) position your hands such that you can run the bead by moving only your wrists or if its a long run position yourself so that you would move parallel to the bead. If you can run a finger or wrist along an edge or surface as a guide that helps too. Go through the whole weld motion first to make sure you're positioned correctly, then do the weld. If you've positioned yourself correctly you should be able to run the bead with your eyes closed - REALLY!
5) spacing the pieces to be welded or bevelling the parts will also give you a line to follow.
6) watch closely - the arc will distort slightly at the joint and give you a path to follow
7) practice, practice, practice !!
Those are tig welds but mig welds by no means have to look crude. In fact, most race cars are migged and the welds are very nice. It just takes the right gas, machine and PRACTICE.
Those photos are taken with camera lenses and I know of no welding shield that will give you that level of visibility for mig.
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Re: Mig welding Q&A
[Re: Stanton]
#814025
09/25/10 06:57 PM
09/25/10 06:57 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
Dave_J
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
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Quote:
I do a LOT of mig welding and know just what you're talking about. Here's my solution ...
1) back your head away further - there is no need to have your face any closer than 18". This will also mean breathing less smoke! I use a 2 power magnfirer lens to do just that.You can get them in a few differnent X powers.
2) when possible, watch the weld more from the open side. Yepper!
3) set the shade around 10
4) position your hands such that you can run the bead by moving only your wrists or if its a long run position yourself so that you would move parallel to the bead. If you can run a finger or wrist along an edge or surface as a guide that helps too. Go through the whole weld motion first to make sure you're positioned correctly, then do the weld. If you've positioned yourself correctly you should be able to run the bead with your eyes closed - REALLY! I can eat a samwich and weld overhead. Practice is right on the money!
5) spacing the pieces to be welded or bevelling the parts will also give you a line to follow. You can also mark a line with soapstone.
6) watch closely - the arc will distort slightly at the joint and give you a path to follow
7) practice, practice, practice !! Never enough Practice.
8) Try rolling the tip in small circles, from one peice up to the other peice. Just to tie both together and flow the joint. Or try doing small C's. It should look like a stack of coins layed over.
Those are tig welds but mig welds by no means have to look crude. In fact, most race cars are migged and the welds are very nice. It just takes the right gas, machine and PRACTICE.
Those photos are taken with camera lenses and I know of no welding shield that will give you that level of visibility for mig.
Last edited by Dave_J; 09/25/10 06:58 PM.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994
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Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
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Re: Mig welding Q&A
[Re: QuickSilver]
#814027
09/25/10 08:00 PM
09/25/10 08:00 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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You guys are great! That's the best welding advice I have got so far. Thanks. And you all convinced me to trash my basic helmet for an Adjustable Shade Auto-Darkening Welding Helmet. Again. MUCH thanks. 
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Re: Mig welding Q&A
[Re: Stanton]
#814035
09/26/10 12:49 AM
09/26/10 12:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,509
Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,509
Highland, MI.
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Commando, I shine a bright clamp-on light on my weld area. Standard indoor overhead lighting does not light the weld area nearly enough for me. This helps me immensely. I use .035 wire for my muffler welding & sometimes use a circular motion & pull down. The right amperage & shielding gas make all the difference in the world. I used to plug-into a 15 amp outlet & got crappy welds. Then I ran a new 20 amp circuit & it was like a whole different welder. No more problems anymore. Also, I use an auto dimming helmet.
No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
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