I have a rebuild 413 long Ram engine that I plan on using in a fairly heavy car (3,800lbs). The engine specs are as follows:

413 bored to 426 cid
Stock rods, polished side beams, rebushed with resized big ends
9.5:1 Diamond Lightweight Pistons
Stock stroke 440 steel crank
Stock 521 heads with OS valves, no porting just cleaned up behind the valves
Max Wedge adjustable rockers with RAS collars and blueprinted tip job
Stock Long Ram intake with stock 2903 carbs (I also have a stock short ram setup with 35050 carbs that might be used which would typically boost the peak TQ/HP about 1,000 rpm)

It is all fresh and ready to fire but currently has a hyd cam (Straightline Performance). I am a bit nervous about todays oils and have decided to upgrade to a hyd roller cam before I fire it off. Goals are pump gas, low mainetance, mainly street driven package, enough vacuum to use power brakes, but with some teeth when I want to make a hard run or two at the strip on the weekends.

Any grind suggestions? Best sources?

When you say "short ram" are you referring to the 1961 and later manifolds that have the center divider removed half way up the runners? If so I would use a cam simialr to a Comp 260H or close to that If not I do have access to one of the best cam techs at Comp(not one of the phone techs), PM me if you want.

Yes, Short Rams (long tubes, short divider)

Scott, I'm running a Hughes Engine HER2836BL Hydraulic roller in my 'short' long ram car. I'm not sure this would be best in your case, I'm running a ~3000-3200 stall converter, 3.55 rear and I don't have power brakes (if I remember correctly my vacuum is 12-14" ay idle) I run the 2903 Carters. I'm happy with this cam, drive it to the strip, runs high 12's, low 13's. I'd call Dave for a recommendation.

If possible I would get one with similar duration numbers to the original, they spent a lot of time figureing out what length those hearer style intakes had to be to make use of preasure waves and they just won't work as intended with very different opening and closeing points, lift on the other hand can be as high as you want and not have any negative effects. If you do chose to change cam timing significantly don't expect the tuneing effect to work so well. The motor can still be made a performer while ignoreing those things but it just won't really be takeing advantage of those tuneing waves.

Just call Porter and be done with it.......802-951-1955.......

Sorry... Who's "Porter"?

Dwanye Porter... Porter Cylinder Heads...

HotRodDave beat me to it. Read this:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/allaboutrams/ramtheory.htm
this...
http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/allaboutrams/allaboutrams.html
and from one of those pages...

Quote:

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The cam gear is special for the ram cars. The gear has the cam locating pin hole retarded 2 degrees that makes the crank gear timing at the damper 4 degrees retarded but does not effect the specific timing of the engine according to the factory ignition timing sequence at the damper. This "retarding" affects the mid to high range torque output of the engine. The combination of the cam retard and the ram action produces optimum horsepower and torque. Engines rebuilt with the "standard" cam gear produce 10-15% less power and torque.

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Quote:

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The cam gear is special for the ram cars. The gear has the cam locating pin hole retarded 2 degrees that makes the crank gear timing at the damper 4 degrees retarded but does not effect the specific timing of the engine according to the factory ignition timing sequence at the damper. This "retarding" affects the mid to high range torque output of the engine. The combination of the cam retard and the ram action produces optimum horsepower and torque. Engines rebuilt with the "standard" cam gear produce 10-15% less power and torque.

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Yes I have read and am familiar with all of that, however, this being a "warmer" than stock engine I don't plan on using a stock cam. I am seeking someone knowledgable enough about these engines to offer a more aggressive cam profile in a hydraulic roller cam design with the above facts in mind to take full advantage of my combo.

I kinda figured you knew about that, but I post links sometimes for everybody else that wants to read/learn along - it's part of my info-junkie nature.

I always wondered how ramtuning would interact with bigger camshafts and/or larger displacement (or a turbo!). When you pick a cam can you come back and tell us the specs and how well it worked?

Sure thing Fury. Someone else asked about my combo so here is a more detailed description of what's in it.

Comp Ratio (pistons) is approx from memmory: 9.5:1, specs on pistons: Diamond forged part# 18891 Bore: 4.25, comp hieght 2.065, effective volume -4cc, Lock ring part# 01-5114.

Stroke is stock = 3.75
Desired RPM range = Mostly street driven, something that will live between 1,000-4,000 rpm but might see 6K in a race.

Lifters preferred = Hydraulic roller (don't want to pull the valve covers EVER!)

Exhaust sytem = Stock manifolds (I have both the log style 1960 300F versions and the "header" style 63 300J style), dual 2.5 manderel bent with an X pipe. I will probably run the log style on this engine.

Car weight = 3,800

Rear gear choices 3.23, 3.55, 4.10 (8.75 centers on hand)

Tires = 27.00 may go to 29.00

Converter stall = not sure yet, ideas welcome

Carbs are stock 500 cfm (2903's came on all Long Ram cars, 3505's came on Short ram cars, I have both, both seem to be the same CFM)

Heads are not actually 516's but an earlier predecessor, same basic small valve closed chamber casting as a 516, I'm sure flow is not impressive (likely in the 210-240 range) but they do have a first class HP valve job, bronze guides, stainless valves, and blueprinted RAS adjustable Max Wedge rocker gear.

Scott; Why don't you drop Billy Shope an e-mail. He may have some interesting suggestions for you. Dave

I'm open to hearing what anyone has to say, could you PM me Bills e-mail? I've had some good input so far, I appreciate it from all. I just want to buy this deal once.

I wouldn't sweat the flat tappet cam at all. Just make sure all the lifters rotate in their bores before you fire it and run any brand of 15/40 diesel oil you like and be done with it.

My understanding of that long ram setup is that it is all done by about 5000 rpm if it has the divided runners so the cam choice I would think will be pretty mild. Dwayne Porter would be a good guy to talk to for specifics.

Kevin

The "If it was mine..." answer is:
- 3.55s
- 2200-2400 stall converter max
- 27" tires
- hydraulic (flat or roller) w/ 215-220 @ .050" intake, 6-8* on exhaust, 112 LSA

And I'd spend the money to have somebody do some real bowl work on the heads, since that's typically a good bang-for-the-buck on OEM heads. Those stock closed-chamber heads are really poor w/o at some work.

I also wouldn't hesitate to recommend Dwayne Porter (PRH) for both specing the cam and doing the head work.

Here's the cam card for the current hydraulic flat tappet cam. It's still new and never used so I don't know if it's a good grind or not but it appears to be.

A lot depends on what manifold you pick and the personality you want in the engine. The fully divided long ram was designed for peak torque at a low RPM... something like 2800. If you want super low end torque, long gears and a tight convertor that's your choice. If you put a cam that wants to make peak torque at higher RPM the combo won't be happy... not much punch anywhere.

I believe the cam you posted would be a great match for the long ram with partly divided runners. Duration is likley too much for the fully divided version.

If you run that cam, IMO it'll "like" the 4.10s and 2800-3000 stall converter. But it probably won't drive as nicely as the combination I outlined and might not be much - if any - faster. The additional gear and stall would only be crutches for the extra duration killing off some of the torque. Those heads, etc., aren't going to allow that cam to make the extra HP it has the potential for, which is why I'd expect it wouldn't be any faster.

Yea I know the heads are deffinately a cork, but they are pretty rare and original 557 castings (which are very similar to 516's) the 1960 and prior castings are not tapped for alternator bolts so are smooth on the ends so I don't want to port or modify them at all.

My top priority is keeping the thing factory appearing and intact as far as original parts go, it's a rare/valuable engine in stock form and other than some light internal mods I plan to keep it that way. I could swap some better heads onto it but since that would blow a big hole in my budget and will change the looks of the heads I decided against it. I just wanted to make it a bit more fun to drive and use supperior quality parts in the rebuild. I do appreciate the input/advice, I'll post the results and if I can afford it, a dyno test result.