Wish I could help you with those questions. Like I said in the first post, I'm not an engine builder by any means. The stroker suggestion was as much a question as it was a suggestion.

In terms of pistons, cam, and so on, I think it's all going to depend on each other. The pistons will depend on the stroke (I think ) and will depend on what compression you want. I don't know what compression would be ideal for towing, considering the 76 MH 440 I have has about a 7:1 or 7.5:1 compression and pulled that bigazz motorhome around easily. But would more compression produce more torque? Cam choice is going to depend entirely on compression. And converter choice is going to depend on the engine package as a whole.

I know, that doesn't help at all, does it!

I was just wondering if I should be trying to keep the compression low like 8:1, or could I still go zero deck with some Ross pistons at 10:1 and have probably around 9.5:1 actual compression. Would that be too much for towing? Would I be pinging on Super Unleaded? Still wondering which cam and convertor. I would think a low to mid-range cam would build too much cranking compression for towing with 9.5 compression. The convertor I would think would be pretty tight for towing so the engine would be right into the low range torque? 440 Source has strokers for around two grand but I really don't want to spend that much if I don't need to...

To get good performance and economy (for a 440) it would be important to build the engine with quench.

Your iron heads are open chamber so a flattop piston won't get you quench. The KB pistons I suggested are "quench pad" pistons. The raised area on the piston is milled down to provide .040" piston to head clearance. It is slow work because each piston needs to be fitted to each chambe but it has a big benefit - you can run some compression to gain performance and economy without detonation.

With quench, you should be able to run 9:1 towing with a short duration cam like the 260H and build lots of torque. The stock convertor should work fine.

Without quench, 9:1 would probably work with premium fuel but 8.5:1 would be safer.

The other approach is to go ahead and get some Aluminum heads, Edelbrock or 440 Source. With the closed chamber head and a zero deck piston and .038-.040 gasket you will get perfect quench and 9.5 or a bit more compression. If your iron heads need a lot of work, this may be no more expensive.

Buying one of the other engines to build would give you time to rough machine and measure the block so you can get the best possible piston height fit.

Thanks, that's exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. The 452's on my current 77 440 are in good shape and I would like to keep them for durability in towing. So I guess what would be the piston choice and cam for these heads with a close to stock stall converter? I know the cam would be a low/mid-range piece, but how about a piston recommendation? KB? Ross? Silvolite?

SUM-K6400 Summit Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Advertised Duration 272/ 282
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int. /224 exh.
Lift .442/ .465 with 1.5 rockers
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-4,500
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 1-bolt
Recommended Camshaft Style Flat tappet hydraulic
Installed Height (in) 1.800 in.
Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 121 lbs.
Open Height (in) 1.300 in.
Open Pressure (lbs) 298 lbs.

This info below is for the KB184 piston

ENTER YOUR DATA CALCULATED DATA
Cylinder Head Volume (cc) 78
Piston Head Volume (cc) -2
Gasket Thickness (in.) .044
Gasket Bore (in.) 4.5
Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) 4.35
Deck Clearance (in.) .08
Stroke (in.) 3.75
STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO 09.40
OPTIONAL DATA Rod Length (in.) 6.758
Adjusted Stroke (in.) 3.255
Intake Closing Point (degrees) ABDC @ 0.050 lift plus 15 degrees 49
DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO 08.29

I didn't CC anything on my motor(I think....I repeat I think that this is close to the compression that I'm running) 76 block with 71 steel crank and 67 915 heads.

Still looking for more 440 cam, piston/comp, torque convertor recommendations for towing...

I'm going to use mine for towing. The TQ I got...is from SMR which he spec'd out for the combo with towing in mind.

I was looking on Jegs at their cams and might go with the cam like the one suggested only one size smaller with the power between 2000-4000rpm. Also for the last poster what stall was that convertor you had built and what gears are you running? Anyone else?

Here's my combo. I'm not saying that it is the best, but it is what I have.

1978 W200
4 speed manual with 4.10's
33" BFG's

1977 motor home 440 (.030 over)
Stock valve job on factory motor home heads
Speed Pro 9.0 to 1 cast pistons
Rebuilt stock bottom end (cast crank)
Lunati Voodoo 60303LK cam Voodoo Cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Holley 750 CFM vacuum secondary
Heddman Headers

I just returned from a long trip from southern Virginia to pick up a car just north of NYC . The engine ran GREAT. Super amounts of power. I never had to douwnshift once. Not even on any of the long mountians through upper PA on I-81. I was literally passing folks going up the hills with a '69 Super Bee on my trailer.

But..... The gas mileage was crazy bad. I never broke 7 MPG (even with the empty trailer).

But..... It had lots of power!

Stan

what piston rings did you use on your build? anyone? I was looking at the KB pistons for my build.

Hastings moly rings. I'm pleased with them.

Stan

Thanks, I am putting together a parts list now and will post it in the next few days for more input. I was also wondering of machine shop recommendations on the Eastern Shores if anyone knows...

I don't know about the Eastern Shore, but I use Magnum Machine in Cheasapeake, VA.

Kurt and Tim operate the place and they are "top notch". It might be worth the ride for you down across the bridge-tunnel.

Call Kurt Bosh at 424-1440.

Stan

I did a 500 stroker from the 'source' w/ede heads for a motor home.The customer loves it,8 years and still running.fwiw.