I need some help,,,and some questions....

I was doing some routine maintenance ,,, and pulled the diff cover off to drain the fluid,,,

Got a big surprise,,,,

LOTS of teeth GONE,,,,,at least 15 or more.... Would have never checked it,,,other than to change the fluid,,,no noise,,,etc.............. GLAD i looked....

Have never tore into the ring and pinion stuff,,,so,,not sure where to start.....

Can someone give me some advice,,,,,

1) Where to buy new gears,,,,What to get,,,all i know is it's a DANA w/4.56 gears,,, ( how do i know if it's a spool,,,or other ? )

2) Can you give me a STEP by STEP on how to remove what i have now,,,,,, ( I want to do this myself !! )

3) What do i need to do to install the new parts,,etc,,, I have a buddy who is VERY smart on setting up,,lashing,,etc,,,so maybe i can have him around when needed for final adjustments......

see pics below............

Not sure if Norwalk is going to happen with the current parts problems...........

Doug

You do have a spool. Where are the broken pieces ? When I broke my 8 3/4 there were small and large chunks everywhere.

Spool you have. The parts missing are in the pinion oil pool, between the pinion bearings. You had better have some one with a spreader and that has done a DANA before help you out. Im sure Cass(DR. DIFF) can help you out with everything you need for gears and bearings. I think hes a sponser here on moparts...Phill

You do have a spool.

Pull axle shafts. Pull diff/spool bearing caps. Pry diff/spool/ring gear assy out of the axle (wear gloves and don't let it fall out). With the diff(spool) and ring gear assy on the bench, using an impact wrench, remove the ring gear bolts. The ring gear is now off.

Using an andy f/mancini/whoever's yoke holder on the yoke, remove the pinion nut with either a really big impact or alot of muscle power. Tap the pinion gear and bearing out the back of the case. Using a brass drift, knock the bearing cup out the back of the case. The pinion is now out.

If you don't have the yoke holder, good luck....the backyard method is a giant pipe wrench but that is not recommended procedure

It's now apart and ready to be cleaned up!

Putting it back together correctly is a whole other ballgame, and I will not claim to be any good at doing that...I put my dana back together three times and did not like the gear contact patterns I was seeing, quit, and took it to DTS.

Call me on my cell after 6:00 if you need a walk through getting her apart....with the lift, you'll have that done in no time and will have it ready to reassemble.

You can tear it down without a spreader....The spreader is really more for putting it back together.

For gears, I'd go with whoever will next day air them to you 'cause you need them quick.

What gear ratio is it? I have a used set of 4.10's Jim

Doug what did you do go back home this morning then
pull that apart.... bummer
EDIT
call Summit for a gear... see if you can get a race
gear for it(instead of a street gear... the race gear
is a little softer so its less brittle)

Quote:

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Doug what did you do go back home this morning then
pull that apart.... bummer

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Mike,,,,yup,,,I headed back to Louisville from Woodward this AM,,,had some stuff to do,,,
When i got home,,i thought,,,i'll check the rear on the 65,,,etc,,,and found this,,,glad i looked,,,,good seeing ya last night on Woodward....


Rich (Zippy),,thanks for the info,,, any interest in heading down to Kentucky to help me out,,,lol,, this is new to me,,,i am pretty good from the rear wheels forward,,,but the rear gear stuff is foreign at this point,,lol

Justin,,i need to start scooping out the shrapnel,,,lol

I might order what i need,,,and "convince" my buddy to come over and help me tear into this............

Quote:

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What gear ratio is it? I have a used set of 4.10's Jim

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Jim,,thanks for the offer,,,current gears are a 4.56

Update.

Going to pull the rear end out,,,hopefully tomorrow.....

Have a good friend,,local,,,that set's up rear ends for years,,,previous auto MoTech instructor,,etc,,,,

Charges $125 to re-do the rear,,,, i just have to bring the rear end and new gears to him....

Told him i want to "help" ( or watch over his shoulder) so i can get the experience,,,and at least have an idea if i need to do this again in the future..........

Doug

I am sorry for your misfortune , but this needs to be said.
You must have an 8 3/4 in there.
Dana's don't break.
For those who want to jam my words back where they came from , that was sarcasm.
I know the difference.
But the underlying theme I get from all the rear end threads / posts is that if I don't switch to a Dana , my children will develop lisps and walk funny......... or worse.
Nothing is indestructible.
Dana's are stronger........I won't attempt to argue that point.
My usually worthless at a glance opinion says lot of car , lot of tire and probably a bit of motor.
Pro gears wear quicker , but aren't as brittle.
They will bend before they break.
I don't know your power level , but street gears become marginal around 600 h.p./ 3,500 lbs. in my humble opinion.
Other variables such as a trans brake and / or stick shift come into play too.
Best of luck getting it together quickly.
Having a car in parts is no kind of fun for those of us who can't use them 6 months of the year.

LOL


yup,,,it's a DANA,,,

Power level is 650 HP on Porter's dyno....

Best ET so far is a 10.12 @ 133 MPH ( 3400 lb car, foot brake, caltracs,etc )

Should have the car torn down tomorrow,,,order the gears,,,and hope to be up and running by beginning of next week,,,,

Doug

see if there is a name on the ring and pinion that in there?
You will need to do some press work, and a bearing seperater. Unless you just want to spend a extra $100 for carrier bearings and inner pinion bearing.
A good place to start is with the same amount of shim that is used with the old pinion. Go from there.
When you take it apart note how hard the carrier/ring gear comes out of the case. Lots of times guys that rebuild these dont put enough preload on the carrier, and this is what results.
These dont have side adjusters like the 8 3/4 so the just use shims under the carrier bearings to space out the carrier to provide preload against the case. There is a special tool that spreads the case just enough to make this easy. If not its a pain for sure...were only talking .010-.030 max.
You will know it when you take out the old carrier, is shouldnt fall out thats for sure..If its right you will need a short pry/sleever bar to force the carrier out....
Get some set bearings or just hone some stock one to slip fit. This makes setting back lash a breeze. Cause if not your pressing on, pressing off bearings every time you make a shim adjustment.
Thats why a guy with some knowledge with dana's makes a diff.
BTW
Dont forget the new Pinion nut also...
If you was a hair closer, Id help you out for some cold beverages...

Wow Doug sorry to see that.If it matters those gears had a lot of passes on them.also the axles, spool gears were all bought brand new from moser.SO who did you get the gears from this time? strang riuchmond etc? how you make it to norwalk.Bobby

Sorry to hear that Doug. At least you discovered it at home as opposed to at Norwalk.Just think of the bright side you have a nice shiny cover to put on now.

Sorry to see that but, good catch now and not at the track. Are those stock gears?

Not an outright hijack , but what is the consensus on new bearings every time you do new gears ?
Especially when there were chunks floating , I'd think it is a good bet.

those teath are broke on the outer portion of the Ring Gear. Am I the only one who suspects the problem to be pinion not deep enough. Any race car or construction equipment needs to have the gears set up with the pinion deeper. When you check the pattern it will be towards the inside of tooth. Look for a good pattern just needs to be concentrated on the inside of the tooth. This way under power you are not hanging over and breaking teeth. Just the way I was taught.

It's OUT...........