A 140 amp 110v will be just fine for material up around 1/8" or so...despite what some say...Some of these recommendations are welders that cost towards $2K..sorry but you dont need a 225 amp Miller to do any job for a race cars/ auto's. Anything over 3/8 I weld with a stick, I dont care what it is.
But let me add this, if you live on a farm, have equipment, or piddle a bunch, a large welder will come in handy.
But for the average joe, who just wants to work on a race car......A 160-175 amp will be plenty.
I have a little 145 amp Lincoln that I can do any thing humanly possible with a race car, and have proper, strong, penetrating welds... (it just might mean some extra prep work like beveling etc)
No need for a $250 hood. Wont help a welder one bit. Those fancy hoods have there faults also. They can be andy in tight space where you dont have room to flip the hood up, thats the only advantage IMO.
The old 2x3 hoods work fine, and you can flip the welding lens and it doubles as a grinding shield....Big Plus..Cause if you do any grinding which you will, you will need a grinding shield.
Dont trust safety glasses only, you will get metal in your eye.
Flux wire can look just as good, as shielding gas also. Its cheaper to operate thats for sure.
Take the extra money you saved with a traditional hood and buy a decent welding jacket, spats, or sleeves minimal.
Just talking from someone who has burnt more welding rods in a few ten hour shift that lots of people wouldnt burn in a lifetime...
Bob Coomer
Journeyman IronWorker Local 769 Ashland Ky