Try Q16

IMO you will have a hard time maintaining target boost with the way you have the waste-gate prioritization. I see boost creep in your future endeavors.
Coming off the exhaust tube at a 90 degrees with a gate is just asking for a headache.

EFI is the way to go. I could no even imagine trying to tune a carburater on a turbo engine, not saying it cant be done it just allot more blind tuning than I could handle.

Stay at it, turbo cars are the coolest things to drive.

Well it was like a shooting star..... it was spectacular while it lasted.

Set pull for 4200-6500RPM this morning.....

It was cold & it always makes more boost when cold... It came on brake @ 4200 @ 15.5 PSI & went right to about 16.4 steady.... I should have shut the run down right there, but I knew it was going to make killer TQ, it was already over 1000 TQ right @ beginning of pull, so I figured I'd let it go, it would drop boost down into 14's @ end of pull & we'd mess with boost if necessary after this pull.... Um no, it stayed @ 16.4 PSI whole pull....

I saw around 1050 FT LBS TQ & about 6100 it started rattling, did'nt want to pull to 6500, I knew it right away & I think as I was saying out loud, "pull out of it" Dyno operator was already reading my mind & was pulling back out of pull & POOF... the breathers looked like Exxon Valdez blowing oil everywhere.... My buddy says, "well, it's hurt now" Next thing I know the drivers header is on fire & I'm putting fire out with extinguisher.

Guess we found the detonation limits of this fuel & 24 degree timing.

Oh well, good learning experience.... took motor back to shop, pulled it down to bare block, everything looks great, other than the obvious..... Took ring lands out on 3 pistons, 1 wristpin should be replaced, obviously new set of rings & the #5 cyl will need a sleeve. It just melted a little divet in the cyl wall that will not clean up, no big deal. The piston in pic is by far the worst out of #5 cyl. The other 2 were just typical broken off chunk of ring land, all rings still intact etc.

I ordered a new set of Diamonds for it & doing 4 day expedite so I'll have them @ beginning of week. These were CP's & were pretty light in @ 436 grams, I always thought they were a bit "skimpy" & felt they did'nt make them nearly as stout as typical Diamond N20/Turbo piston, which is usually a massive chunk of aluminum on the top... so decided on Diamonds this time.

Bearings showed no signs of detonation from last weeks thrash fest so, I think it only rattled once this AM & that was all she wrote. I'm actually going to re-use the bearings (& the Cometics).... Mains looked great as well. I was really excited to see what the cap walk would look like after 51 pulls. #1 showed none, #3 none, #5 none. #2 was very very minimal & #4 had some, but not nearly anywhere what I expected or have seen out of similar power N20 Motors before. So caps are really staying quite stable @ this power level.

So, I should be putting it back together next week. Everything will get a good cleaning & guess I need to order a drum of 116 & learn how to pull more timing out of it

Fun fun fun.....

Mmmm.....that sucks- sorry to hear that....

OMG!!!!!

They make new pistons every day... this is just part of the game. I was'nt really too distraught about it.... I was actually quite happy the rest of the motor looked so good. The new Diamonds will be better piece & I'll be happier with them.

I'll start running 116 fuel, back timing to 22* & I'm going to inject methanol into both the turbo & the carb hat in future.

Car is looking good Ryan. Looking forward to seeing the ET results once you get it back together.

Jeff

Ryan, do you have any way of boost referencing your timing? At 14 PSI you may want to be in the teens on timing. No turbo experience I'm just looking at your piston damage. Sorry this happened but you know one of the weak points now. I have always wanted a turbo but just never had the balls to do it. Watched others either run great or go crazy trying and give up. If you are not seeing cap walk with obvious detonation issues seems turbo engines are not hard on cranks. Is that what you are seeing? I have been tempted to boost my engine but the crank is a crower ultralite. Hmm just don't know. Good luck.

Leon

What fuel were you running.....any idea what a/f ratio....if on race gas then I would not think you were anywhere near this kind of carnage unless it was getting real lean.

Keep up the good info Ryan , What roller wheel are you using with the TK lobes? ( my Jesel's are .850 wheel)

Spent a few hours drilling and tapping the last couple days..Ryan, you think I'll be able to hold in the turbine backpressure

top center hit into water jacket about 3/4" back in...nothing some rtv on the stud won't fix

there's a bunch of information learned i'll bet. personally with that much compression and boost, i'd be looking at 17* of timing and minimum of 116 octane @ 15 lbs. i'd really prefer 118 though to be completely safe.
51 dyno pulls is a lot of pulls, but in the dyno room the pulls are relatively short and temperatures, among other things, can be controlled. when its in the car and at the track, you have much less control of certain variables. error on the side of caution with fuel, timing and boost, keep a close eye on A/F ratio and EGT if possible (egt should have been used on the dyno for a boosted motor IMO) and read plugs often. that's the best advice i can give from someone who's been there.
glad to see the damage wasn't any worse.

One of these would give you a bit more tuning leeway.....



Bell liquid to air core...good for about 1500+ hp

That sure is a quick learning curve. Didn't realize you had such a high CR, and with no intercooler I would say that if you try to do even anything close to similar you have done so far, you are going to duplicate your results, no matter what the piston brand is. In my opinion way too much boost for that CR and advance. Were all the broken pistons in the center cylinders? We melted a couple of pistons too in the first year with turbos, 8.6:1, 93 octane pump gas and 34 degrees of timing (a mistake)at 14 psi. We dropped the timing some and turned the water circulation over + water in from between the center exhaust ports, and after that it has worked without a hick up. We have an air/air intercooler though, did you monitor your intake temps?

First off Ryan, I fully respect you and am not questioning you, just some observations. 11.3:1 is nuts. Especially with no intercooler. Have Diamond whack at least a full point of compression off those pistons before they send them, LOL I may not be an expert, but from playing around with the FWD Turbo Dodges I can tell you, you aren't gonna have a street friendly car like you want. Meth injection is nice, but it goes empty just like the fuel tank, and if you have to go an hour and a half to get high enough octane fuel it doesn't seem worth the hassle. Have you consider E-85? Also, I want to hear more from Go Green on the boost creep and wastegate locations. And one more vote for EFI.

How does a massive chunk of aluminum on the top keep you from burning down the side of the piston?

Would gas porting the pistons have helped? Seems to me the sides would not get as hot if you had a more positive ring seal as in no blow torch blowing between the piston and wall