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Are you saying you need the electric assist to keep the choke "open" once the engine is up to operating tempature?

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No, in my experience, stock configuration, cast iron intake/heads, open cross-overs, heat riser working correctly or not, although choke timing was off, I’ve never seen a choke spring that wouldn’t eventually relax completely with an inop/missing choke heater or controller. With that said, the later button type controllers having the by-pass resistor, the resistor serves only one purpose and that is to allow for partial current flow to the heating element regardless of the switching taking place in the controller. At full voltage, I’ve measured about 1.6 amps of current drawn by the heater, thru the resistor this current draw dropped to around 600-700ma, again this reduced heating was present throughout the entire run cycle by factory design. Could very well be simply some kind of fail safe in the event the controller switching fails (and they did) there would still be some heat function.
I can tell you from more current first hand experience that in a NON-STOCK BB configuration with blocked cross-overs in aluminum heads, aluminum intake, correct spring tension for correct cold start/run/drivablity, the choke spring will not relax completely at normal operating temperature without this reduced extra electrical heat. Hence, the reason for the “heated six-pack choke spring” mod.

I do have another non-hp manifold stashed somewhere from a 74’ TQ equipped 440 that doesn’t have a heat riser valve as well. I spent the first year of my dealer wrenching stint back then, working the “lube rack” at a rather large Chrysler/Plymouth dealer. I’ve spayed countless cans of Mopar heat riser solvent on countless heat risers. I recall taking note then, when heat risers started to disappear from some of these cars.

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Okay then our personal experiences do agree that an inop choke assisted stock configuration engine will eventually "open" or "relax" as you stated during normal running. Which I believe is what the OP has. So he shouldnt sweet it if he doesnt want to hook up the assist especially on a summer driven car. He'll be fine. I see what your are saying about "choke timing" and the engineering behind it though. But you were dealing with uptight new car owners back in the day. And I'm really pretty picky about the choke setups on mine. I want them to function well enough my wife can get in them and drive them without knowing it doesnt have fuel injection. Well other than the fact that you have to pump it first to set the choke and oh yeah the fuel is now boiling in the carb after you let it sit for 10 minutes at the fast food joint or gas station and you got to let it crank awhile till you get fuel back up in the bowl enough to get the right AF mixture for it to fire. Other than all that

And I definately have run into the problem you mentioned on a aluminum intaked car with the heat cross over blocked. But by the nature of that beast (a long ways from a stocker) its pretty much not going to have a stock configured chock set up anyhow. I tried it once and saw I couldnt get the choke to "relax" or "open" all the way and still shut all the way when cold. A car like that is going to either go chokeless, manual choke, or have an integrated electric choke on the aftermarket carb I'm sure its running. Nowadays anyhow. I was trying to get a stock choke to work on a blocked off aluminum intake with a stock Carter YEARS ago. Really doubt you'll find somebody even messing around like that nowadays.

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Just reading the 1976 FSM manual here and it explains the manifold heat control valve (passenger side exhaust manifold) and what it does. Just as I thought, they still used them at least way up in to the late 70's. So the chokes (thermoquad) in question were getting as much engine heat transfer as did a 1969 383HP Roadrunner with an AVS and no electrical assit on the choke opening. Now I dont want to piss in your Wheaties or anything and I do understand what they were trying to do by getting the choke off quicker in hot enviroments, but I still hold true to the fact that you dont need them. If its something you would like to "tinker" with for peace of mind and perfection go for it. I get that, I really do. Does the orignal poster need it to make his choke "work"? No it will still open and close all the way with just engine heat transfer. Heres the explanation for the electric assist choke system in question out of the 1976 FSM below.

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