I ended up changing the way it is mounted next picture no bolts.Perfet fit i fit it behind the flange it gave me about 1 inch more room between water pump and fan motor.I am using a 3 core alum champion raditor.Now i just have to wire it up.I brought the kit feets suggested.$22.00 at advance auto.I have a already had a flex-a-lite on car wouldn't work with this setup.

It looks like it was made to be there!

I'm not sure how the flex-a-lite fan controller works so I can't comment on it. The Imperial switch is more or less a temperature activated switch. YOu should be able to run a hot lead to and from it with no problem. The trigger doesn't use any appreciable amperage.

My replacement radiator has the shroud mounting flanges too. They have a long stand off since it originally came off a C-body. The radiator I was using had the mounts removed years ago.
I hope it doesn't move the fan too far out. If it does, the pulley won't be a problem. Instead, it will put the plastic fan shroud against the turbo downpipe. Can we say MELT boys and girls?
Maybe I can slide it under the shroud flanges like you did. If so, I'll drop some clip nuts on the shroud and drill matching holes through the shroud flanges.

The flex-a-lite is temp controller has the probe a red ?(hot)and black(ground)wire couldn't get it to work.It worked fine before with hhr fan but it only has two wires hot and ground what am i doing wrong.

I have no idea how the Flex-a-Lite fan controller works.

By what I read on a quick search, it powers the fan on 60% at the set temperature and goes up 10% for every 10 degree increase in temperature.
I assume it's changing the voltage going to the fan but I could be wrong. Did it change the speed of the HHR fan?

Power it up, connect it to a digital multimeter and put a heat gun on the probe. See what the meter says when it gets hot.

It's possible that these fans only trigger on 12 volts and pulses the power to vary the speed. It's raining right now so I can't test variable voltage on the fans.
If the controller varies the voltage and these fans only cycle on 12 volts, you would need to set the fan controller 40 degrees colder than normal to trigger the fan.
Again, I'm grasping at straws here since I don't have one to play with.

I'll try to figure out how they work but it may take a while. I know the older Mercedes had a stand-alone fan controller but I don't have one to play with.

Here is my preliminary mock-up. Very, very tight. But it will fit. I gain a good amount of distance between the pump and fan by angling the bottom of the radiator to the front of the car by 3/4" or so. It really needs the room. Does anyone see a problem with that? It doesn't look too bad.

I just got my Champion radiator. It's twisted. But not too much to use. Besides, I am cutting off the radiator's mounting brackets and opening up the radiator harness so I can stick the rad though the radiator harness. Then I will weld the bracketes back on.

I will also have to mount the fan against the rad (with a little foam tape for cushion) instead of on the shroud mounts. I didn't have the space to spare.

I would like to thank Feets and all the other posters here for this thread. I have learned so much here.

Wow! That is tight. I bet it'll be fun getting the blower belt through that gap.
Have you powered that thing up yet? It'll surprise you!

Did you cut that 2" wide tab on the radiator side of the fan? It's horizontal behind the fan bulge. It pokes out farther than the rest of the shroud. It might buy you another 1/4" or so.

I just landed another fan with that offending tab broken. There may be one or two more in the shop. I have to wait until the insurance company agrees to buy new fans. My guys know to keep an eye out for broken tabs. They tell me if they have one.

I flush mounted mine to the new radiator. It's actually inside the shroud mounts. I'll have to get some new pics and post 'em. It makes for a very clean installation.

That's a little too close.
I'm not sure what you're going to fit in there. My old setup was a pair of fans off a '90 Nissan Maxima. Since there were two fans the water pump sat between them. The fan shroud was steel and fit the radiator core nicely. It also had arms that reached around the radiator to mount to the radiator support. A little tweaking had it fitting nicely.
I used it for several years, including the road trip from DFW to Green Bay, WI during the summer of 2004. I had the small fan set to turn on with the key and the larger fan was on demand.
If my radiator hadn't plugged up with goo I imagine that setup would still be working.

Did I say that?

Who wants fan? ...I do, I do!

I gotta say that I was getting IMs from guys as soon as I started this thread.

Hey! You work at the body shop. Do you think you could find another one of those fans?

Q; Wow! That is tight. I bet it'll be fun getting the blower belt through that gap.
Have you powered that thing up yet? It'll surprise you!

A; The belt won't go through there, I have to pull the pump to do anything. Haven't fired it yet, probably a couple of weeks away from that. I want it securely mounted before I put power to it!

Q; Did you cut that 2" wide tab on the radiator side of the fan? It's horizontal behind the fan bulge. It pokes out farther than the rest of the shroud. It might buy you another 1/4" or so.

A; Yep, it was the first thing to go.


Q; I flush mounted mine to the new radiator. It's actually inside the shroud mounts. I'll have to get some new pics and post 'em. It makes for a very clean installation.

A; I had to completely remove the radiator mounts, so I could slide the radiator forward into the harness until the top tank hit the harness. And the fan shroud will be against the radiator fins with a little adhesive foam for protection.

I asked before and I would like to ask again; I have the radiator mounted leaning with the bottom about an inch farther forward than the top. It gains me clearance that I need between the pump and fan. Does anyone see an issue with the radiator not being perfectly straight up and down?

tilting the rad should not be an issue. There are a few factory jobs that do that.

Also there is usually an air gap at the top of the rad anyway, so being a high point should not be an issue either.

If you have a 1/2" that doesn't sound to bad, depending on how good the motor mounts are during hard braking.

Good, it's going in a little crooked! Thanks!

i picked up one of those fans to put in a customers car. i went to the local Mercedes dealership and ordered the wires and connector.
3 wires and the connector were 33.74
Nazi prices for what the stuff is, but if the fan works as good as what it appears, it's money well spent.