I have pulled the 7 1/4 out of my project 68 Dart and would like to put an E body 8 3/4 I have laying around back into it. I know the E body housing is a little wider drum to drum than the A body housing, but I plan on ordering rims anyway so a change in offset to fit shouldn't be an issue.

I have a set of spring seats to weld on after I remove the E body seats. In measuring everything up, it appears to me that the E body 8 3/4 pinion will be about 3/8" farther offset than the 7 1/4 was with the housing centered in the body.

My questions are;
A) does that difference in pinion location sound about right?
B) will that small amount of driveline mis-alignment cause any real problems?

Thanks!

Anyone...........................?

Better see what's available in wheel offsets; the difference between E & A axle widths is a BUNCH. An E rear is wide even in a B body. If memory serves, the difference between A & E is something like 6" in width.

The e-body housing is about 4" wider than the '68 Dart housing. Even with the correct offset wheels, you'll have trouble mounting them on the car - UNLESS you are radiusing the wheelwells.

If your A body is a 67-69 Barracuda, or a Duster, Demon or Dart Sport, the wider axle could be made to work, but it wont be easy. Even with deeply recessed wheels, you still may have clearance problems.
It seems to me that SOME E body guy would want your axle. Personally, I would look for a C body or Van 8 3/4 and have it cut down to work.

the early B-body housing is the one that will bolt in an A-body

it has the 44" perch centers and the a-body springs can be pulled 1/2" on each side to bolt it in

i had moser cut me a c-body housing down to a-body specs and use their large brake offset,5 on 4.5 wbp custom alloy a-body axles

shiping/housing x2=80$ narrow housing was around 75$ way cheaper than buying an a-body 8 3/4 ready to run,IMO

axles were 299 a set with greens

dont chop the e-body housing kinda like an a-body housing now days...worth something

truck and c-body housing are good to chop down and the axles could be canadates for a cut respline on the cheap as well (I would save a truck housing myself and use the c-body housings no one wants)

the early b-body in the a-body will need the offset rims also but no were near what the one you are talking about will...if they even make them

Pulling leaf springs IN to fit a wrong spring pad isn't right. Come on, man! I like junkyard science as much as anyone, but this kind of stuff gives car guys a bad name.
When the rear springs go through their range of travel, this "Mod" will put undue stress on the springs, bushings and shackles. With 35+ years on the road, who knows what could happen. The shackles could fold during compression and then the rear end kicks to one side. Want to guess which way the car will turn at 65 mph?
If you can locate another axle, YES, the 66-67 B body is the closest width to use. The 68-70 is about 3/4 wider if I remember right. RELOCATE the spring pads the right way and burn rubber!

the offset of the pinion is not a big deal IIRC

you want the axle same length on each side,let the pinion offset fall were it is,IIRC

with out the backing plates on the housing

pull the tape measure from flange to the oppisite side and weld the perch center at the 43" mark

pull from the other side flange and weld perch centerd at the 43" mark

this will set the housing center on 43" a-body specs

want to make sure you get the pinion angle on the housing correct

IIRC the pinion is 7* with the perches level

dont recall if its 7* up or down though..I just read that here the other day...main reason i had moser do it

fit the first time and is correct

FYI..

I have since bolted the a-body axle in my 85 truck as they share the same 43" perch centers as the a-body

bolts in on top of springs and tucks 12" rims in the fenders of a stepside with 29x15x15 M/Ts

i have thought about putting a truck axle under an a-body and use a straight front axle to make a gasser a-body

just food for thought

The only reason I am using the E body housing is because I have it laying around. It would be a lot more trouble for me to find and pull another 8 3/4. I would gladly trade it to anyone with one of the early B body housings if they wanted this one. I have stripped the housing bare so as I can prep, measure, and accurately mod it.

I am using the original 7 1/4 as a basic pattern to mod and install this 8 3/4, which is how I discovered the difference in the pinion locations when I mocked it up. A local welding shop looked at what I wanted to do and said that with angle-finders, getting the spring seats on at the correct angle is no big deal at all. But that shortening the axle tubes would be quite a bit more involved. (Meaning more money)

The car is a 68 and I have a set of Bill Reilly's templates so I can open up the rear fenderwells. I plan on using at least 10" rims, so I should have enough rim to get the backspace right.

I will check around and see if there is an old B body housing laying around before I tackle this one. I have some time before I need the rear.

I do have a truck Dana, too. But that would be a lot more work, what with changing the flanges and all.

Thanks for the help and info. I'll keep you posted if I find a B body rear.

you need a jig and pucks to cut reweld the ends on the housing..thats the more involved part

with 10 rims they are gonna stick out anyways,so weld up the perches on 43" centers and run it

your gonna cut the slab side so it should not rub

but...

if you do cut the housing dont go by the 7 1/4 specs..use the a-body 8 3/4 specs

abody 8 3/4 only came with the small bolt pattern and the skinny 1 3/4" brakes

when you use the large brake offset axle it will make the whole rear 1/2" wider...1/4" each side and let you run the b-body brakes

check the e-body axle to see if it tappers down in the 28" area...they maybe good canadates for a cut respline...my 30" e-body axle are

IMHO,you would be ahead of the game if you have the housing narrowed and cut respline the axle all to a-body specs,you got time,its cheaper,and it will fit correct

a 68 dart is slab sided and the wheel wells are narrower than the duster/dart wheel wells,so it needs to be close

with the e-body axle and brakes 4.5 backset on the rims will put it right for clearance on the tire bulge and spring after its cut to a-body specs

I drove myself crazy with the measurements so I left it to moser...I just asked to have it cut to a-body housing specs and told them I was running the large brake offset axles

fit perfect with the tire/rim in the center of the wheel well

good luck either way

never said pulling the spring out some to fit was correct...its just been done a lot...I have never seen or heard of a problem with it either

I was just saying that could be done



haveing it cut to a-body specs is the right way and the fit is spot on

but I have been were he is at trying to use what I have laying around

and pulling the spring over either way a 1/4" is no biggie,,,it moves that much stock with worn bushings anyways

I know hickabilly real well and its not for every one...but I have built some mean rides using what i have on the cheap and it works for me

thats why I am suggesting to him...just have moser cut and respline the whole thing bolt it in and it will resale later with no problems

I called a couple of buddies today looking for an early B body 8 3/4, no one had one. I'll look a little more the next couple of days. I feel that getting new spring seats on in the right place and at the right angle will not be a big deal. The new seats were $10 and the machine shop said maybe $50 to plasma off the old ones and locate and weld on the new ones.

I plan on ordering a new set of axles from Dr. Diff. I am not comfortable using stock axles in this application.

by chance is the e-body housing you have 55 inches or so??

I have one that i think is an e-body but was told it came from a 67 polara which I think is a c-body

the perches are 46"center if I recall

i think the early B-body are 44" centers

if it is an early B-housing you can get this one on trade if you want

need to see if its the same as you got first

It's about 56 1/2" flange to flange.

When I need an 8 3/4 for an A body, I always use the 66-70 B housing. I also use a grinder to grind off the welds of the stock pads and reuse them. SOME new spring pads have the center hole TOO large. The bolt that holds the leaves all together needs a hole that is only slightly larger. The stock pads are not damaged if you are careful with the grinder, and the cost is nothing.

mine comes up a tad over 55" IIRC

I will dig it out and measure it agian this weekend

flange to flange with out backing plates

and get a perch center measurment

are your axles 30" long from flange to end of splined shaft?

I have looked at the chart in the archives and still cant figure which one it is

and one of the charts is wrong..just cant remember which one

e-body would look terrible....trade it for a b-body,at least.... []-----o-----[] vs []--o--[]

axle lengths MOPAR 8-3/4"

A-body ('66-'72) 8-3/4" axle = 27-11/16" lg.

B-body ('66-'67) 8-3/4" axle = 28-7/8" lg.
B-body ('68-'70) 8-3/4" axle = 29-3/16" lg.
B-body ('71-'74) 8-3/4" axle = 30-5/8" lg.

C-body ('65-'68) 8-3/4" axle = 30" lg. ('64-'70 A100 also)
C-body ('69) NON-station wagon 8-3/4" axle = 29-31/32" lg.
C-body ('69) station wagon 8-3/4" axle = 31-21/64" lg.
C-body ('70-'73) 8-3/4" axle = 31-21/64" lg.

E-body ('70-'74) 8-3/4" axle = 29-31/32" lg.

Imperial ('70-'71) 8-3/4" axle = 29" lg.

Just about anything about 8.75 widths is here:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html


Pulling the spring 1/2" on each side has been done for years. Is it the best method, no, but it has been done. Pulling them apart the 1.5" per side to get an E rear into an A body... not so smart.

I have to ask why not get an A-body rear 8 3/4 instead of trying to use B or E Body ones??? I understand he has the E body one, but why not sell it and get the correct rear???

I can't give away c-body pieces and still folks are cutting up expensive rears.?????

Okay guys. I found a '67 B body rear for $150. It's out and on the ground and only about half an hour away from me. That appears to be the path of least resistance. I have a couple of E body 8 3/4s out in the barn that I doubt I will ever use. But I guess I'll use this other one instead.

10" rims with custom backspacing and some Dr. Diff axles and I think I am good to go.

I am not sure whether I will pull the springs over to the seats and use the ones already on the housing. Or whether I will cut them off and weld on the new ones I already have. I noticed that the center holes were larger on the new ones than on the old ones. I am not sure that is any better than pulling the springs over a little.

Thanks again guys!

I think that you will be happy with that year axle. Its a good fit.
As mentioned before, with careful removal, you can REUSE the original spring pads.

If you're buying axles from Cass did you have him price you a housing narrowed down to the a-body width(52 5/8")?

I picked up the 66 diff tonite. I'll mock it up tomorrow and decide what to do about the spring seats. I think I will probably just elongate the holes outward a little. That way the for/aft part of the hole is the same, which is the way the housing will be trying to twist. I was really surprised at how big the center pin hole was on the new MP spring seats that I got from Mancini.

you could just pick up new spring bolts from napa with the correct size head on them

then just swap the bolt in the spring pack

I clap the leafs to gether with c-clamps then remove the locating bolt and replace

i also get them longer than needed so it ez-er to work the leafs and bolt swap

then trim the bottom of the bolt when done

make sure to sand blast it and paint it nice and purdy

just did mine,A-body 8 3/4 and got it in my 85 truck with 12s and 29x15x15 M/Ts

one more for ya some motovation

Now that's cool. And you have the same tires on your truck that I run on the Cuda.