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I was hoping for some opinions on the following questions.

1. Would switching back to the old original small block torsion bars help up front compared to the 2006 vintage .920" BB torsion bars that I have in the car now?

2. Mr P Body mentioned my car sits too high in the rear. Other than moving the front spring up to the upper mount in the front extended bracket, is there anything else I can do to drop it down? How high should it sit if I measure to the top of the fender well lip?

Does anyone else have any other shock recommendations or are the Caltrac 90/10's up front and the Rancho RS9000X adjustables in the rear the way to go?

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A set of smaller diameter bars will help(they will
have more stored energy... as for the rear height
I dont know but I would try to grt the car level,
with more front end travel

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I was hoping for some opinions on the following questions.

1. Would switching back to the old original small block torsion bars help up front compared to the 2006 vintage .920" BB torsion bars that I have in the car now?

2. Mr P Body mentioned my car sits too high in the rear. Other than moving the front spring up to the upper mount in the front extended bracket, is there anything else I can do to drop it down? How high should it sit if I measure to the top of the fender well lip?

Does anyone else have any other shock recommendations or are the Caltrac 90/10's up front and the Rancho RS9000X adjustables in the rear the way to go?

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I,ll answer Question 1. Torsion Bars!

For now. Id keep the torsion bars you have in there now. You stated that you set them up at Factory specs!

Factory Specs Go out the window when setting up the car for max traction

The Front end will need lowered for weight transfer. As far as the frontend setup,

Id take the advice of "Captain Budget" on his set up. Read his post and take note. I concur with it.

But will add Your SS springs will be just fine.


EDIT, Incorporate Quicktrees Ideas in there too!

Shocks, Shocks, Shocks, as he gets his similer Body style to hook too. mike

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Ok then...I guess the new to do list is

1. Adjust rear ride height
2. Adjust front suspension travel/ride height
3. Adjust pinion angle
4. Remove pinion snubber
5. Calvert 90/10's upfront and Rancho RS9000XL's
in the rear

Then I can always play with spring clamps and rear shock settings the next time I hit the track.

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You Forgot number 6. Hit your New Best

And 7. I dont think you need to address all of those things at once to run faster. Your car is doing quite well as it is.



New list,

Number 1. on my list would be to drop the front end torsion bars by a couple of turns.

Number 2. would be to drop the pinion snubber away from contact and remove any added clamps for a base line to see how the enginered SS Springs work by themselves with your combo.

Number 3. adjust rear ride height lower if possible.

Number 4. Go with your Gut feeling , I think your doing pretty good so far mike

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Where can I buy spring clamps?

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As I said in a previous post on this subject... Mancini has them. They are $44something for two. I'm making my own.

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Yep....that's it. I knew I shouldn't have put that lift kit on the Cuda Captain Budget...is there any chance you could post a pic of your car so I could see what I should be shooting for?

I'll drop it down and post a new pic once complete to see what you guys think.

Crizila...this is a street/strip car but I currently have a laundry list of changes I make before every trip to the track. They include unbolting the front sway bar (I just turn it forward and wire it up so I don't completely remove it), installing the CE 90/10 front shocks, installing the trans blanket, and putting on the track tires. So using the Calvert 90/10 shocks wouldn't make anymore work for me. I wouldn't run the 90/10 shocks on the street and especially w/o the swaybar. We have too many winding roads here in Maryland.

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Its funny as I have no sway bar on my 63 and do have 90/10's up front and I just drove it 25 miles to Glen Burnie last Saturday on 695 and the back roads. But I have been driving it like this for a few years. It handles ok but of course it's no road race car. I was very surprised how much better my 63 handles with the Hoosier radial slicks on the back as compared to the QTP's. Guess its because I have radials up front. But it really drives nice for just normal easy cruisin as I drive it everywhere. But I do agree the front sway bar would help it handle much better on the street. Ron

Tywebb thats a real nice pic of your Cuda.