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Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694182
01/10/11 03:23 PM
01/10/11 03:23 PM
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NORTHERN VA
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THESHAKERPROJECT Offline
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I don't remember what seals I bought but don't think they were Metro.


......IF you used the ones from SOFT SEAL you will never get the door to shut unless you slam them and MOST venders sell these JUNK door seals. You want the ones from METRO supersoft.
BTW, 15K for all that work is a GREAT deal!! Shops in this area woud have charged TWICE that amount. Nice work.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: THESHAKERPROJECT] #694183
01/10/11 10:15 PM
01/10/11 10:15 PM
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Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Quote:


BTW, 15K for all that work is a GREAT deal!! Shops in this area woud have charged TWICE that amount. Nice work.




Shops in my area (SOCAL) wanted 3-4 times this amount. Perhaps the <Jay Leno/no expense spared> effect?

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: cloneguy] #694184
01/11/11 11:20 AM
01/11/11 11:20 AM
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dan9 Offline
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Just curious if you had a nos left quarter panel then why splice it? Also when you find major damage to the right quarter then why grind the whole panel when it is going to be replaced? Thanks

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: anlauto] #694185
01/11/11 11:56 AM
01/11/11 11:56 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,472
It's a dry heat
gtx6970 Offline
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Quote:

Yes..I agree with Mike....Before you pull all your hair out..remove the door seals 100% and see then how the doors close.
The best aftermarket seals I've found are Metro SuperSoft They come packaged on purple cardboard.




I can vouch for this, the doors on the cuda I'm working on you have to slam the doors harder than I'm confortable with to get them to close. then the roof rail seals to me seem to be too hard as well and push the 1/4 glass out when it reaches the top of the travel. It's all Sofseal stuff.

I plan to look into the metro stuff next week

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: dan9] #694186
01/11/11 02:39 PM
01/11/11 02:39 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054
Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
cloneguy Offline OP
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Quote:

Just curious if you had a nos left quarter panel then why splice it? Also when you find major damage to the right quarter then why grind the whole panel when it is going to be replaced? Thanks




Good questions,

- If you notice they way we spliced the QP, it left all factory welds in place. Since we butt welded everywhere and then ground them down, the replacement is seamless. The only evidence, without stripping the paint off, is the photo we posted.

- When the car came in, it was not apparent that the damage on that side was quite so major. Since the customer was 3,000 miles away, we stripped the whole panel and took a bunch of pictures of it for emailing. Then we let the customer decide if he wanted us to repair it or replace it. The only change in cost to him was the part and materials.

Thanks for asking.


Martin, GA Quality Auto Restoration with Fair FIXED Pricing. Fast-N-Dangerous@comcast.net
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: gtx6970] #694187
01/11/11 04:23 PM
01/11/11 04:23 PM
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Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Quote:

then the roof rail seals to me seem to be too hard as well and push the 1/4 glass out when it reaches the top of the travel. It's all Sofseal stuff.

I plan to look into the metro stuff next week




I've already talked to Metro about this. They don't carry a roof rail kit for the convertibles, only a long seal that can be trimmed as needed. Their door seal is listed for hardtop, but I assume can be used for conv as well. I also have the Soffseal kit.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694188
01/11/11 07:09 PM
01/11/11 07:09 PM
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KY
65pacecar Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

then the roof rail seals to me seem to be too hard as well and push the 1/4 glass out when it reaches the top of the travel. It's all Sofseal stuff.

I plan to look into the metro stuff next week




I've already talked to Metro about this. They don't carry a roof rail kit for the convertibles, only a long seal that can be trimmed as needed. Their door seal is listed for hardtop, but I assume can be used for conv as well. I also have the Soffseal kit.




I believe Steele Rubber makes that kit also, I have had great luck with them in the past: better than I have had with Soffseal.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: cloneguy] #694189
01/11/11 07:31 PM
01/11/11 07:31 PM
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dan9 Offline
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Good thinking thanks. Beautiful work you do.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: dan9] #694190
01/12/11 11:13 PM
01/12/11 11:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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People's Republic of Kali
Some mo pix...
Conv well/trim; I restored the stainless with the eastwood kit. Pot metal are nice originals.

6414281-trimfit.jpg (126 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694191
01/12/11 11:16 PM
01/12/11 11:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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NOS date coded beep beep. You can see the inner fender holes that got missed during the resto. Probably where a PO mounted an ECU.

6414288-RRhorn.jpg (121 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694192
01/12/11 11:21 PM
01/12/11 11:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Hood 440 callout (thx to moparts member "okie" for an orig callout backup plate). NOS hood t/s assemblies.

6414298-440callout.jpg (128 downloads)
Last edited by 70runner; 01/12/11 11:23 PM.
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694193
01/12/11 11:25 PM
01/12/11 11:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Inst panel frame - blasted, primed, and painted with correct suede finish (Mancini stock).

6414305-frame_painted.jpg (115 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694194
01/12/11 11:28 PM
01/12/11 11:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Restored steering column, same suede paint

6414311-rebuilt1.jpg (117 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694195
01/12/11 11:31 PM
01/12/11 11:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Suspension coming together

6414320-Assembled1.jpg (127 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694196
01/12/11 11:32 PM
01/12/11 11:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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440 back from machine shop

6414323-ltside2.jpg (130 downloads)
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: 70runner] #694197
01/12/11 11:56 PM
01/12/11 11:56 PM
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Posts: 5,048
Atlanta Indiana
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Dave Watt Offline
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Rich, your Road Runner looks fantastic. You must be really excited working toward completion.
Nice job Tim.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: Dave Watt] #694198
01/21/11 10:17 AM
01/21/11 10:17 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,797
BC Canada
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BC Canada
Its shocking to hear you got all that for 15K ! thats a 50K job and 2-3yrs in the shop around here .
As for weatherstripping,the metro supersoft I put on my 66 satellite doors is garbage,it is dimensionally larger than the original w/s and it rubs the striker when you close the door,I will be reinstalling the original w/s back on.

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: dan9] #694199
01/21/11 11:38 AM
01/21/11 11:38 AM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Quote:

Just curious if you had a nos left quarter panel then why splice it? Also when you find major damage to the right quarter then why grind the whole panel when it is going to be replaced? Thanks







I would "assume" the NOS replacement was a hardtop piece, thus you would have to graft it in place,....if it WAS a NOS vert qtr, and it was spliced like that, then that was sad indeed?



Then again I didn't care for the surgery done in that graft, I would have made every effort to rework the hardtop skin (if that's what was used) to conform to the original vert's form, to avoid/minimize butt welding/grafting,....the buttweld (vertical) along the door jamb is not "proper" in my opinion


Nice job overall though,... you couldn't get that much work done for $15K or less out this way

Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: DAYCLONA] #694200
01/21/11 03:09 PM
01/21/11 03:09 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054
Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
cloneguy Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

Just curious if you had a nos left quarter panel then why splice it? Also when you find major damage to the right quarter then why grind the whole panel when it is going to be replaced? Thanks







I would "assume" the NOS replacement was a hardtop piece, thus you would have to graft it in place,....if it WAS a NOS vert qtr, and it was spliced like that, then that was sad indeed?



Then again I didn't care for the surgery done in that graft, I would have made every effort to rework the hardtop skin (if that's what was used) to conform to the original vert's form, to avoid/minimize butt welding/grafting,....the buttweld (vertical) along the door jamb is not "proper" in my opinion


Nice job overall though,... you couldn't get that much work done for $15K or less out this way




The reason for the verticle butt weld and all butt welds the way we do them is simple. They leave the factory welds in place. When we are done, if we hadn't posted the photos here, it is not possible to tell that the work was ever done. It leaves the car looking like 100% original metal from the factory.


Martin, GA Quality Auto Restoration with Fair FIXED Pricing. Fast-N-Dangerous@comcast.net
Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D [Re: cloneguy] #694201
01/21/11 06:15 PM
01/21/11 06:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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The reason for the verticle butt weld and all butt welds the way we do them is simple. They leave the factory welds in place. When we are done, if we hadn't posted the photos here, it is not possible to tell that the work was ever done. It leaves the car looking like 100% original metal from the factory.








So Tim your saying you cut up a factory NOS vert panel to butt weld it to save the "factory" welds?,....there are plenty of techniques and equipment avaliable to "reproduce" a factory type weld, not "rocket science",....I feel you've lost some of the structual integrity of the car, esp a vert, by welding the qtr as you did, yeah, yeah you never had one break a weld,....but how about 2,5,10 years down the road?,...when/if it fractures? and starts looking like hell?,...I don't know about you, but when I finish a car, I don't want to revisit it again down the road to rebuild it again

Mike

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