The driver sides is the left

The passenger sides is right.

If you can't remeber a cars go by left to right as you were sitting in it.

Those are all Oz Valiants...top one is my old VG coupe (sold a little while back) then my Aussie Charger, and bottom is my newest VG I just got in Oz and is on it's way here now...due in about a weekish actually.

Oh, and as for drive throughs..there is an In & Out Burger locally here I've been to in a bunch of the Oz cars, they have drive throughs on both sides of the place

Right is right Left is left

So...back on topic...Sharpie, have you had time to check this out further? I'm interested to find out what the problem is.

update:

okay, I did some sleuthing this afternoon and came up with some interesting results:


I jacked up the front end to get under the Demon, and when I set it down, it was back to its high altitude again, where it was before I drove it last. I jounced the vehicle again, and it only went down about halfway, and was sitting in the place I wanted it. Weird.

Anyway, I marked the torsion bars on the front and rear. In the front, I marked it at the retaining nut in the lower control arm and on the control arm right next to the mark on the nut. In the rear, I marked the crossmember and the corresponding place on the torsion bar cylindrical retainer with the internal hex in it.

I backed out of the driveway and my steering was great. I was able to stop and steer just fine. But halfway down the block again, it began to sag. It went back again to where it was before I had even jacked it up.

So back in the driveway, I got under the car to look at my marks, and they were all still lined up. Maybe I didn't put the marks in the right place?

Anyway, I was thinking about the toe-out/in comment as well, and measured the toe. When the driver's side wheel is straight, the passenger side wheel is probably 15-25* toed out, if that makes any difference. I also have probably 5-7* of negative camber, but only when the ride height is bottomed out (which it does when I drive it). I'd fix the alignment myself, but I can't find the procedure in my service manual, nor can I find a good simple article online.

So it looks like I'm driving the Demon across town (through traffic) with severe toe-out and camber to get it to the aligment shop

I don't understand how you can keep tightening the adjusters? Aren't you running out of thread?

As stated earlier, the rear mount has to be broken.

Keep us posted, this just doesn't make sense.

It doesn't make sense to be either, which is why I am asking

But to answer your question, I have the head of the adjusting bolt about level with the underside of the control arm. The problem is, the height level is equal to where it was when the bolt head was about two inches from the control arm undersurface.

Well, you should have at least 2" more of adjustment. Crank it up and see what happens.

Is the tip of the adjusting bolt in the cup of the t-bar lever?

Sharpie - take some close up pics of both sides of the front and back of the attachment points. It may be that the bar and where you marked are both turning within the frame. Are the marks still in alignment with the frame itself?

You should be running out of adjustment on the bars. Can you show us a pic of where it is at (the bolt going thru the cam).

Is it is doing this the same on both sides?

I can only think of a couple of reasons why this would happen:

1) Bars are spinning at the attachment points - either hex end is stripped/rounded, or attachment point is spinning in frame.

2) Bolts on cams are stripped and pushing out when you drive it. You crank it up, but drive it and it pushes the stud out of the cam. Repeat.

3) Alignment it out of wack pushing the front end down. If this is the case, you should be able to drive it and reverse and it should rise back to where you have it. Alternately, you should be able to jack the front of the car up under the K-frame and lower it again and it should go back to the original cranked up height.

4) Retaining clips are missing out the back of the rear attachment point - allowing the bar to back out and spin. I *seriously* doubt this is it. Bad things would happen.

5) Frame is rusted and the whold back piece is spinning/bending (doubtful).

6) Bars are completely shot/fatigued and won't hold their spring (where the bars ever heated or in a fire)? I would think if this was the case the bars would fail.

7) Something physically bent/jacked with the cams.

8) We are all on drugs.

Gonna take a LOT of pictures, and they'll be up tonight

Alright, here's some photos for you:

Driver's side t-bar rear mount (notice grease mark):



Passenger's side t-bar rear mount (grease mark again):



Passenger's side inside the hex:



As you can see, I am toed a bit out:



And negatively cambered a lot:





And sitting really low, too low in fact:



Here's the driver's side adjusting bolt height:



And the passenger's side:



And here's the passenger side hitting the cam:




I noticed something new today: I can lift each side up to the height I want it and it will literally stay there, until I drive it. There's no time lapse either, it won't fall after an hour or so. Only when I drive it. Or when I push down on the fender, then it goes down again to how you see it now.

Anything here strike anyone?

weird!!!

I think you need another set of hands(and eyes) Is there anyone from this site that is in you area? You need someone under the car as you lift up and down on the front end to see what is happening. Just don't have anyone hang under the car as you drive it around the block.

There's a lot of people around, but I don't know if anyone has the time. I'll check around, I guess. This is way too weird though...