I'm running the stock alternator on a Small Block 360. It makes 65amps, I think.

I've been looking around and seeing alternators 1/2 the size and making 120+ Amps.

Can I simply swap mine for one of these? If not what needs to take place to make this work in a 70 Challenger with original wiring.

Thanks

Speedy515

use an external regulated mini ALT. and it wires up and uses the stock VR

I did ths on my 85 truck with 440 in the sig pic

you may need to bypass the amp guage and you may need a solid state VR if it has the older mech points VR

should be able to flip it over(ear/lugs) and use the stock brackets,may need to make the lower longer

there is a bracket templat in the tech archives you can print out and make a metal bracket for the lower one on SB

you do have to cut the slip terms off and use eyeloops with the newer alt

there are also internal regulated alt that have 1 wire hook up and some other wire mods that can be used also

What does a external regulated mini starter have to do with his question about changing alternator?

If you know your Mopar alternators find an older one that puts out 90 Amps.Thery made these for quite awhile. I have a few of them. It looks like your original one but has a 1/4 inch stator instead of a 1/2" looking stator. These put out a lot with out having to change anything. They are not hard to find just have to know what you are looking for.

its 1/2 the size and is a bolt on swap useing the external regulated mini alt with the stock wireing and VR

thats what i read,smaller,120 amps,whats needed

what did I miss..?

I see what you said now

I ment to type alt,not starter

yep I missed it all right

With original wiring, I wouldn't bother with a 120 amp alternator. Do you really NEED that much power? Unless you have heated seats, heated mirrors, heated rear window, AC, NAV system, a thumping stereo AND a high powered ignition you don't NEED 120 amps.

You start putting 120A through that bulkhead connector and you're asking for major trouble.

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

one thing needs to be mentioned... you can get 300 amps alt if you want, but if the power demand by the car and options is "just" 60-70 amps you will only get 60-70 amps from it.

so the bulkhead weakness is not in REALLY in direct relationship with alternator output rate. Just that when an alt is able to feed the power demand to the main splice ( located just right before the ammeter coming from alt ) all the power will come from that side and never from the batt, so the load won't be shared by these two terminals ( alt and batt wires ), will run by just the alternator terminal at bulkhead. thats why the upgrade on wiring/terminals is needed.

the advantage of bigger output alts is not more than the iddle charge/feed capacity, more efficient than basic old stock alts, and not really the TOTAL output rate from alt.

however, old BIG Mopar alts are in mostly of cases, enough for a plug and play upgrade... these alts were available since 75/76 years on 78 amps rate. In MOSTLY of cases, with stock equipment or just some "minor" upgrades ( halogens for example ) is more than enough even with AC.

Power windows and similar stuff being just work OCASIONALLY doesn't need to enter on consumption play since won't matter if power is being succked from batt on that moment. Alt will recharge inmediatly that once power window is set.

Honestly the IMPORTANT stuff to be calculated in power consumptions are lights, Blower ( AC or Heater ) if posible at higher speed, wipers in case of a rainy day and Radio. These are the onbly options you mostly could keep WORKING and demanding constant power from alt. Rest are not more than small peaks consumptions ( dome, turning, brakes, lighter ).

Ignition system is allways covered enough by any alternator in mostly of cases, but for more exact calculation, add some amps on the play.

Then if you have some upgrades, electric gas pumps, electric fans and electric water pumps.


Price rate of these 78 amps STOCK ALTS are on $45-60, being a plug and play job if you are already on electronic regulator deal. Just some clearence of alt mounting is missed, being these alts are maybe a couple of milimeters wider, and making a tighter mounting even with block on back side of alt. Is recomenden use a slightly longer belt for it

Nacho what I am gathering is a large alt is actually good to keep everything fed on that side of ammeter plus the 2 wire bypass past the bulkhead, slightly larger wiring/clean connections and a std 78 amp alt so as little current as possible has to go to/from the battery and thru the ammeter

just exactly like that!

of course, also any relay upgrade being sourced from alt side will be the correct setup... source those from batt will transduce on like batt is sucking power like is discharged so the amm will read a charge from alt ( if alt is able to feed that demand of course )... false reading because mostly sure batt is not REALLY discharged and unnecesary stress on ammeter.

forgot to say than with a FULLY DISCHARGED BATT and a POWERFULL ALT is when the ammeter become on some dangerous point since the batt will suck lot of power from alt through ammeter untill gets fully charged. Will suck allmost all the alternator output power depending on RPMs.

This moment will become in a more dangerous if you have a large reserve capacity on batt with lot of amperes... ( 700, 900 amps reserve ) due the LONG time will take to get it charged back.

That's the only point when the ammeter becomes on a REALLY weak point... also when alt comes bad and you have lot of consumption from car due the upgrades being all the power coming from batt will feed through ammeter.

but at THOSE specific moments simply this two proceedements are bad:
-Charge the batt back into the car from zero or allmost zero.
-Run the car with ALL THE EQUIPMENT turned on when alt comes bad. The consumption must be reduced at minimun.

This two moments are simply wrong proceedements even with stock alt and equipment, specially if YOU DON'T KNOW how to drive it. Charge the batt on car is not completelly bad if you make it AT IDDLE untill at least get partially the charge back, enough to ammeter get lowered the "C" reading.

I dunno about old mopars 90 amps alts... just the lower older ones ( 40 to 55 rate ) then 60 amps, 65 amps, 78 amps and then the LEECE NEVILLE alts rated at 100 amps, but needing diff brackest setup and another stuff more. I'm not sure have read about stock 90 amps ones

if you want to know about this alt upgrade( with images ) about not more than STOCK alts, not something special or aftermarket:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techa...ator/index.html


and more readings:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,62772.0.html

read every link there... some nice info and good discusions

then we have aftermarkets alts 100 amps, 120 amps etc... brands like Powermaster, TuffStuff, both in stock casing and look, then we have Densos etc...

but as stated any parts shop will get you a stock powerfull slt in $50 rate

Nacho is the late 70's one w the thin(er) stator the 78 amp one? (which'll be plenty for my app)

is not thiner stator, is really same stator width, with wider windings but hidden down the housings... yes thats the one, but becarefull with the one you get, because those are in 60, 65 and 78 amps presentation. All looks the same on exterior. Mine is 60 amps and looks JUST LIKE THE 78 UNIT

Clearlyauto have the Beck/Arnley units 78 amps in $32.78+15 of the core

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=gGA1KJhwDA0dBFR0MaSREf2RHG1R.AxgIX3dOTwEEXxkA

Note: DEALERS have copied the Beck/Arnley alts specs and they list the olde units one groove pulley also on 78 amps... THATS IS SIMPLY WRONG!!!

read this:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post5894237

allways be sure and pay attention on every product you get, quite often dealers have listed wrong teh specs and applications ( for example Eddy IAS Shocks are listed to 64/74 B bodies and they only get up to 72 in front )

I always search for answers from dealers AND manufacturers. Get the worng unit I wish being overseas is simply wrong

The Beck/Arnley alt is just one option I'm giving due is the one a friend of mine already got and is WORKING PERFECT. In fact I recently got the same from Clearly and is waiting to be shipped from Fl to Caracas. AC Delco offers them ( in single groove presentation), BBB, and several other brands too.

here is the 90 amps alt ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Ply...=item53e0d17a0a

dunno, but is rated by seller... how true will be ? dunno.

Everyone want more amps.How many amps are the 78 or 90 amps alternater at idle? That's wind we need more amps.

thats why the 120 amp denso mini alt is popular

it has a lot more juice output at idle

my lights dont dim,heater fan dont slow up at a red light now

thats why I used it on the 440 truck in the sig pic

yes,thats was part of my trouble

my curb idle is a low 800-850 in gear

IMHO,its a good upgrade if its not the older vehicals

my 85 truck was not bad at lights dimming,but with lights and the heater it showed up

now it dont and the 440 is at a 750-800 rpm idle in gear

yes,got mine from a member,not sure what it was from,2 groove pully on it

but the others I have used are from the van and yr you mentioned

it was external regulated with a VR on the fire wall

it fit on my 440 in the sig pic with the non a/c brackets

I had to add a little to the swing arm to clear the alt case and have a little more reach

I also used the ps belt from the stock set up

it swings the alt out enuff to clear the head

I cut the plastic of the 85 alt wire and just trimed the eyeloop out of the plastic

i crimped on 2 eyeloops for the feild wires

wired it up and bolted it up

I did have to flip it and use the single ear for the pivot,that way the batt stud is out away from the head

has about a 1/4 from VC lip/head on the feild wires

just right