Do you have any junkyards near you to get trigger wheels?

If not, Car-part.com showed a handful of whole distributors for $19-25, which is the going rate at the PickaPart near me.

You probably know, but make sure to get a TBI dizzy, NOT a Maggie (Mag has a 1-tooth wheel). TBI is a little uncommon, only from around 88-91 on 318 and 89-92 on 360 -- and only in trucks, too.

We have one junkyard in town. I think they have 3 or 4 magnum trucks. None of them with the 8 tooth wheel - I already checked

Great thread,stellar tech and its awesome the way you bounce ideas back and forth overcoming adversity. to ya.

so a couple of things.
First yes someone is running it with a sb too, so rotation doesn't seem to matter.

Two, I think you are over thinking the wheel size and tooth size.

First, there is no way for them to know which one is the short tooth till after it passes.
So my bet is it just does a cal check.
By the way I just past number 1, where do you think I am.

Now the only concern I have is how they figure out which one is the short tooth.

Timing should not be an issue. Since they use the tooth as the trigger. My bet is that the smaller diameter of the mopar wheel will make up for the size of the teeth since the ford wheel is probably proportionally the same. But I don't want to do the math to figure it out this morning. But basically what I am saying is, why have that complex table programmed in if you don't need it. What purpose would it server to calculate timing based on the size of the teeth.

back to how they figure out the short tooth.
my concern there is as you speculated, why not have a table based on rpm for how long it takes that tooth to pass to say yep, here is number 1.

But I say that isn't fluid enough.
Wouldn't it be smarter to say, take the average of the last 7 teeth and compare to the next one.
if it is shorter call it number 1.
I understand rapid acceleration might change it, but would be easy with tps to say, you are at wot, so don't take that measurement, or take x percent difference due to accelleration.

I bet it will take the smaller wheel into account.

since fury fan reminded me about it.
btt.
so you have something to work on after the fan is done.

Nope, haven't done anything else on it. Still hoping to come across a cheap ECU on flea-bay

But I was thinking (oops), I don't want my truck to be down for the duration of figuring out the EFI, so it would be nice to have a test stand for the engine. And if I do the transmission controller, it would be nice to have a transmission test stand. I have a buddy with a spare 318 I could probably use, and I have a 46RE that in theory should work alright.

Once I get all my 'before snow' projects done here, I'll look into starting these projects.

You guys are awesome. I finished my efi magnum 68 fury in march and have put 4000 miles on it since. I think I put 3000 on it the previous 6 years I owned it. I have a big block belvedere and would love to inject it. I will be watching closely!

Hoozie -
Depending on how you plan to do the wiring you can bench test some of it, I think.

My plan was to put a terminal block junction on the stub out of the EEC, install some relays for ign, fuel pump, etc, similar to what the EEC used. Then make a new engine harness to attach to teh terminal block.

By tickling the EEC with ign the FP should give the 2-sec prime pulse. If the dizzy is spun via an electric drill or drill press (which would give various steady speeds) the EEC should figure out the 'engine' is starting/running and start to fire injectors. If using a drill press you'd need some way to keep teh dizzy housing from rotating.

All of the above would require having a bunch of indicator lights wired in, or you'd need to go round-robin with a test lite (if it works). If the injectors don't start lighting up, then it's kinda normal EEC diagnosis.

You might need an LED to watch the injectors flash, I've never tried a standard test light to see how it works.


My harness/terminal setup is probably 3/4 complete but bigger fish keep getting in front of it. I've contemplated buying the EZ-EFI multiport retrofit kit, but I know I won't have time to install that either.

I guess that should work as well. My main concern right now is making the distributor run reverse from what Ford does. Even if it activates the injectors, about the only way to know if it'll run is to throw it on an engine. And I don't want to break in a new 408 with a bad system.

I did find a 5.0 ECU (A9S) on ebay today. Should have it sometime soon.

Got several of my 'before snow' projects done recently, so getting closer to being able to work on this some more

Wow glad I found this thred. I have been planning on doing this EFI swap on my 440. Like the rest of you I have found out the dizzy is the hard part. If you have $700.00 laying around try this. http://www.massfloefi.com/replacement-add-on-parts/distributors/mallory-mopar-tfi-distributor.html If you are not made of money check out this link. http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm Could it be true? Can you run a TFI unit on points? If you can a modification to the number one point cam lobe to shorten the dwell is all you would need. Lock up the advance and away you go. It may be too good to be true. Check it out and let me know if you think this will work. I have almost collected all of the parts to do this I just need a dizzy.

Quote:

---

Could it be true? Can you run a TFI unit on points?

---

I guess it should work. My main concern would be how the points bouncing would affect the signal going to the ECU. Then just need to figure how much to modify the lobe to get the timing right on #1.

Interesting thought indeed

Thanks for the contribution, EDL94!!!

That $700 dizzy would solve 1 problem, that's for sure, but for me it kills the budget and the main justification for the 5.0 EFI.

This dizzy is a lot cheaper and might work just fine, too. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-...d=mallory+mopar

I simply need to verify if hte dizzy I made works electrically, and then review how to mount/orient the wheel.

I may have missed it, 3 pages worth, but did you try to get an output from the ford distributer and compare it to the dodge one?

also since these are batch fired, does it matter which on is #1 to the computer?

and finally, if either of you have everything but the distributer, I have a sb unilite sitting around, perhaps you can try to run it straight and see what it does? cut a tooth for where it indexes in the ford if you need to.

and then finally, if neither of you has time, send the stuff to me and I will try both, my distributer with the odd wheel in it and the unilite.

I think all I need is the computer and harness. I can reuse my injectors. if they plug in.

Andrewh,
The ford system is sequental fuel injection and needs #1 id. It also requires a digital signal to the TFI module. I think the unilite dist has a magnetic pickup that would not supply that clean digital signal the computer is looking for. I wish it would work.

Yes I know Fury fan I don't have the money laying around for that distributer either. Just thought I would point out that it is out there. I am a long ways from a running engine Working on a full restoration and in the assembly phase. I have collected most of the parts needed for the mass air system and still trying to figure out the dizzy. I have looked at the other hall effect dizzys but dont want to waste money on something that may or may not work. The small block guys other than the rotation issue seem to have it easy there is room for a modified ford dizzy. The diameter is too big for a 440 it hits the valve cover. My plan was to make an adaptor redo the end of the shaft and run it, till I got one in my hands there is no way to make it fit. I hope moving the ford guts works so I can copy it. I might try running points to start just to see if it works.

It runs! I woke up the wife at 7:30 this morning to the roar of the cam break in. Still needs tuning but it responds to throttle ok and idles well. Still alot of work to do but the ford system will work on a big block mopar.

Details: It is a 440 with 9.8 to 1 compression, stealth heads, Holley street dominator intake modified (for EFI), Lunati 60303 cam, windage tray, Schumacher try-y headers, and TTI 2.5 x-pipe exhaust.
Oh you ment the EFI details. This would not be considered a buget build. I did use a couple of used parts from ebay,(The MAF and 30# injectors) the rest was new. The fuel rails,and intake throttle body adaptor are edelbrock. The intake is a modified holley street dominator. I used a holley throttle body, painless wire harness,and all new ford style sensors. The trick is still the dizzy. I spent the cash and bought a mallory 95 series dizzy. It has a hall effect sensor and #1 cyl ID built in, the problem is #1 mopar and #1 ford are not the same. Just put the #1 ford or #2 mopar plug wire at the #1 id spot and wire the rest around the circle. the rotor still needs to point at mopar #1 at tdc. Hard to type but not that hard in real life. I also am using a quarterhorse programing card. It allows me full access to tuning and datalogging the ford ecu. I am using an A9L ecu all I have done so far is change the injector firing order, the cid, and the injector size. It seems to run OK but will need some work run great. I remote mounted the TFI on a heat sinc from ebay. I know I have not covered it all but if any one has more questions ask and I wil do my best to answer.