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So, it looks like you got the distributor figured out

Up above you mentioned something about the IAC valve? I was thinking that'd be a pretty straightforward part of the swap

Since it mounts directly to the throttle body, either get an elbow adapter like shown in the very first link, or come up with another way to mount it to the intake.

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Whether the IAC is a PITA depends more on what intake manifold and/or throttle body you plan to use. The Ford IAC is PWM (pulse-width modulated) while most GM, Dodge and universal 4-barrel-style use stepper motors. I believe somebody makes one of the 4V types with a PWM (Hitachi?) IAC that might be PWM, so check around. That's a high $$ TB, though.

So if you’re planning on putting the 5.0 stuff with a 5.2/5.9 throttle body (some guys in the poll said they’d be using the beerbarrel) or a 4-barrel-style TB, the Ford IAC won’t work without some mods to mount it remotely and ensure the original passage doesn’t leak air (that can be the harder part).

If you’re using a ‘standard’ converted intake manifold, then an Edelbrock elbow with a 5.0 TB on it is quite simple. For those in the lower-HP (or budget) domain, I recommend you check out the TB and elbow from a 4.6 Ford. Those TBs are 65 mm and good for around 245 hp (on paper). The 5.0 HO had a 60mm TB, and those engines can be tweaked above their 225hp rating before the TB becomes the restriction, so I’d bet the 65mm can go to 275hp or so. . The elbow requires an adapter plate to match the manifold but it would be a fairly simple one to make on a drillpress. Another option: look for a 5.0 Explorer, they have an intake similar to the Mustang but it has a 90° elbow that might be usable (and the TB is a 65mm unit, albeit different from the 4.6).

If you plan to mount the 5.0 TB right on top of a standard intake, the IAC will probably interfere with your aircleaner, as the IAC now points straight upward about 3". You could make a small thick adapter plate with cross-drilled passages to make it level, though. You'd also need some way to fasten the aircleaner. I have done such a configuration, and it fits neatly under a factory aircleaner.

Remote-mounting the IAC:
To remote-mount the Ford IAC, you’ll make a plate to cap-off the IAC ports, then drill//tap that plate for 2 barbed fittings that align with the ports. Run 2 hoses, one to the inside of the air filter region and the other to below the throttle blades. You might be tempted to T it into the power brake fitting, but don’t do that on a dual-plane manifold if that location is only in 1 plane.

Do something similar to the TB to block off the original IAC path. This is a little tougher as the passages are usually cast into teh TB and will vary based on what TB you use.

Get a roll of gasket paper from the auto parts store and get crackin’.

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Either way, the 'hard' part will be running the new throttle cable, and for us with automatics, the Throttle Pressure Cable (or kickdown cable )

Or is there something else I'm missing?

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Nah, we're still planning hardware, I'm sure there will be more hurdles after that!

throttle and kickdown cables:
Ford used a kickdown-type cable on their AOD transmissions, so a 5.0 TB from an OBD1 car should have provisions on it for 2 cables. 5.0 Explorers and 4.6 vehicles all had electronic transmissions, so no 2nd cable -- those TBs could still be made to work, perhaps?

Also, if you find a Lincoln Mark 7 with 5.0 HO, it will have the TB on the passenger side and the cable might be long enough to use, but you’ll have to figure out how to hook it to your pedal.

For cables, check out your nearest Dodge van and/or pickup. Some of them are pretty long, and the firewall-mounted footpedals probably fit in late-60s-up Mopars with little effort. The KD cables should be easy to use also. I also discovered that a ‘low-head’ allenhead screw (can’t remember the size, perhaps #6?) was a near-perfect item to emulate the cable pins used on a Maggie TB. The cables have a special square locking clip that goes into a bracket on the TB, either get that bracket to reuse or make the square hole with a drill bit and a sharp needle file (I’ve done it both ways).
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=6ufx2q

For reusing any OEM cable you’ll most likely have to modify something at one end or the other, so a universal cable or a Lokar might end up better on the time/money scale – each person has to decide for themselves.

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If you plan to mount the 5.0 TB right on top of a standard intake, the IAC will probably interfere with your aircleaner, as the IAC now points straight upward about 3". You could make a small thick adapter plate with cross-drilled passages to make it level, though. You'd also need some way to fasten the aircleaner. I have done such a configuration, and it fits neatly under a factory aircleaner.

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I was contemplating doing something similar to this. Also need to put the MAF in there somewhere; but you said you were doing SD, so you don't need it. That would definitely make a pseudo-stealth install easier.

I have something in mind that would stick the TB and MAF under the aircleaner, but I need to get everything and mock it up to see if it'll actually work, and not be too tall. The thin style MAFs are $$$

For the KD cable, it really shouldn't be too hard to find one long enough and finangle a way make it work. Heck, even a long manual choke cable with custom ends should be feasible to get to work.

All this planning, and I still don't have an engine to put it on yet

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Anybody got any updates? Hoozie - did you find an engine yet?

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No Haven't even had time to pull my harness yet. Now that the disc brakes are all but done, I can move forward on it.

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The plastic bushing that holds the Mag TBI wheel to the shaft can have its 4 plastic plugs drilled out removing the metal wheel from it. The bushing can then go upside down on the shaft, and the Ford key (with a larger hole) can fit on top and bolt to it. Things I still need figure out include the final installed height of the plastic bushing, and if I can use the roll pin hole where it is, or if it needs to go up or down.

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Fury Fan, do the 8 tooth wheels you have, have the same angle between all the teeth (except for #1 on the Ford of course)? It would be awesome if we could use otherwise 'off the shelf' parts, rather than needing to hack on another sensor if we need to install a new one. Make an adapter to go from the remote mount Ford TFI to the Dodge hall sensor. Everything just 'plugs in'

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The signal output from the Hall sensor is called a Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal. There is one shutter that is skinny and this is how the EEC knows the #1 piston TDC position. This is also how the EEC knows where each cylinder is in the firing order due to monitoring the time rate between PIP signals (changing rpms) and the internal firing order data, which enables it to control sequentially the firing of the injectors.
The EEC then sends a signal (SPOUT) back to the TFI module requesting to fire the coil. The EEC senses the coil ground for feedback that the coil has then actually fired.
The coil fires on the falling edge of the SPOUT signal. The TFI also provides an internal SPOUT signal (based on the PIP signal) for limp home mode operation if the EEC has stopped sending the SPOUT. If the SPOUT plug is not inserted, spark timing remains at base timing during engine operation.

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So here’s some theoretical diahrea:
The narrower Mopar teeth will cause the spark to occur X degrees advanced due to the advanced falling edge (which would typically be compensated for with distributor orientation). But this could also theoretically affect fueling, as the EEC could think the wheel was moving faster than actual (it sees falling edges happening quicker than expected) and therefore think engine RPM was higher, and begin firing the injectors differently based on fueling and timing tables. (The angular velocity is the same between the wheels at a fixed RPM but the tooth-tip speed is different, and EEC has some awareness/expectations of that toothtip speed). But EEC would then have the feedback from coil firing and have info on the true RPM. But it could conceivably think the spark was ill-timed vs the teeth. What will it do if coil firing suggests 3000rpm but toothtip suggests 3200 (arbitrary numbers)? If fueling is OK and near stoich (which means no misfires) but toothtip speed vs coil suggests consistently incorrect timing, what would it do??? Did the Ford engineers anticipate this scenario and write a specific diagnostic/limp response for it???

As there is so much unknown regarding how well a ‘foreign’ engine will run with EEC’s tables and maps, I suggest we start out simple and not worry about problems until there are problems.

• Get a Mopar TBI dizzy, file a tooth narrower to reasonably emulate the Ford wheel, then either re-pin the wheel to point to Mopar #1 or re-lace the plug wires as needed (remember Ford’s #1 is different than Mopar #1, and re-lacing the dizzy wires might be easier).
  
• Install the rest of the system hardware – remote TFI, harness, fuel system, sensors, etc.
  
• see if it will start and idle.

If not, then diagnosis is in order, and using a Ford wheel in the dizzy might be required.

Whatever you guys do for modifying a dizzy and wheel, just remember to maintain the relationship between #1 piston at TDC, #1 wire going to #1 sparkplug, rotor pointing at #1 on dizzy cap, and Hall sensor aligns with falling edge on narrow tooth of the trigger wheel.

Here’s a good read:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/