right rear after

Tav

Next I did the right front (passenger)

before messing with the window switch, I took apart the electrical conection at the left in the photo, and slid the grommets over the wires. It can be a little tricky getting the grommet started over the edge of the wiring wrap. I used a little soap, some extra tape, and a lot of patience.

I had an original E body window harness here to compare to. The grommets are the ones that use a hole size of approx 2 inches and approx 1.5 inches. The bigger grommet is for the door and the smaller one is for the door jamb. Note how they are oriented on the wire harness with the switch to the right off the picture. This is as original. Measured from the switch to the small diameter end of the grommet (left side of grommet in pic), Passenger side is located approx. 22 inches from switch and approx. 30.5 inches from switch, Drivers side is located approx. 21.5 inches from switch and approx. 32 inches from switch. This should get you in the ballpark and you can slide the grommets around a little if you need to when fitting the harness to the car.

When I did the drivers side grommets I slid them over the window switch connectors. I did not have to cut or modify the grommets in any way. They fit tightly to the wires and will provide a good seal.

The only problem I've had with the XV harness is that the fuse would have been located in the drives door jamb between the grommets. I didn't like that, and to remedy it I took apart the fuse holder and with my soddering gun and some heat shrink, I spliced in a short length of wire to locate the fuse behind the drivers kick panel. That is the only cutting/splicing that I had to do to the XV harness.

If you don't want to do that, there is enough wire on the XV harness that you could leave the fuse inside the door, but I thought it would be difficult to access there, and also that it would stay drier behind the kick panel.

either way, you'll need to wire wrap over that red power (fuse) wire in the drivers door jamb area to keep from seeing the bright red wire when you open the door. I wrapped it to the other wires, then slid my grommets over.

Tav

Right front (passenger) before

right front after

left front (driver) before

The pins on the mopar electrical switches are slightly smaller diameter than pins on the XV supplied GM switches. On each wire I squeezed the connecter together slightly with a pair of pliers to provide a snug fit onto the mopar switches.

On the three single switches the 5 wires went right into the square white mopar connecter. The connector snapped closed and would probably stay that way just fine, but I wrapped clear packing tape around it once just to be sure. Thanks to mopar engineering, all switches fit very snug onto their connecters and I'm not even slightly worried about it falling off behind the door panel.

If your having trouble holding all the wires in place while trying to close the square white mopar connecter, try this... put the switch face down on the table, place the open square white mopar connecter properly onto the switch pins, put the wires on the switch pins, close the square white mopar connecter. The switch can help hold the wires for you.

The drivers switch was the most difficult. I had to modify the rectangular white mopar connecter to make room for the crimped on metal wire ends. (see pic below) Using my dremel tool I removed the area marked with my ink pen. I had to do this on both halves of the rectangular white mopar connecter so that it would close properly around the wires.

Tav

Tav did you see this thread...

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post4775992

left front after

To do this conversion to the XV power window kit you'll need grommets, switches, switch retainers, and the white mopar switch connecters. These parts are fairly universal to mopars with power windows. Look on C bodies, or Ebay.

Barracuda window cranks are located in the same place as the power window switch. Look at the backside of the panel for the switch cutout size.

Challenger power window switches were located slightly off from the window crank location. I have power window door panels. I'm not sure if you could enlarge the crank hole to accept the switch. Measure clearance behind panel before attempting.

On the XV harness Red is the power wire
Brown goes up and Blue goes down on all the motors
driver Brown up, Blue down
passenger Tan up, Light Blue down
behind driver Green up, purple down
behind passenger Grey up, Light Green down

Here's a diagram for the original harness.

Tav

Soon I'll be drilling the grommet holes in the car at the factory dimples and test fitting everything in the car. I'll try to post here again when I'm done with that step.

Tav

The original relay is only used to make the windows work with the key in the acc or run position, not as a way of taking the current load away from switches, when I first posted the link I had forgotten your doing the XV system, if you have good switches it will likely work fine, the relays just take the load off all the original wires & switches & provide more amps & a better ground path so they will work a peak performance for a long & trouble free life...

Just remembered something... The XV harness uses the wire wrap that is similar to electrical tape, but not sticky. I'm happy with that myself, but those of you who are a little more detail oriented may want to wrap over it with a black cloth type wire wrap where the wires show in the door jamb area, as that's what the factory used on the original harnesses.

Tav

Been working on my car again...

I've drilled the grommet holes and run the wiring. The XV harness fits in the car just fine. The wiring reaches everywhere it needs to go without any problems. I installed the XV power regulators. They mount to the car using the same holes that the original manual regulators used. They didn't quite line up with the holes perfectly and I had to slot a few holes just a hair (one hole per side on the back and two holes per side on the front). I hooked up power to test everything and it all works, No problems. The motors are powerful and fast going up and down.

Tav

Here's some pics that might help someone out.

The RED dots are the holes used for manual window regulators. (also used with the XV kit)

The Blue dots are the holes used for factory power window regulators.

This picture applies to both challenger & barracuda. The rear panels have the window switch located in the same position as the window crank handle. All you need to do is enlarge the hole. The cutout size & shape is marked on the back of the factory panels.

Tav

This pic shows the door holes that would be used for barracuda.

The RED dots are the holes used for manual window regulators. (also used with the XV kit)

The Blue dots are the holes used for factory power window regulators.

The barracuda door panels have the window switch located in the same position as the window crank handle. All you need to do is enlarge the hole. The cutout size & shape is marked on the back of the factory panels.

Tav

This pic shows the door holes that would be used for challenger.

The RED dots are the holes used for manual window regulators. (also used with the XV kit)

The Blue dots are the holes used for factory power window regulators.

The challenger manual regulator is located higher than the barracuda manual regulator. The challenger door panels have the window switch located in a different position from the window crank handle. The cutout size & shape is marked on the back of the factory panels, but you will need to plug your window crank hole, or find different panels.

Tav

About drilling the wiring holes in the body of the car...

With the car door closed, front tire removed, & rear plastic fender shield removed, you can drill the holes in the door from inside the fender.

For the other hole...

Open the door & remove the kick panel. I used a dremel tool (90 degree adapter) to drill a 1/8th hole from the hinge side (door jamb) in the center of the sheet metal dimple. Then, from inside the car, I used a step drill bit to enlarge the hole up to 1/4 inch. (1/4 inch is the size of the pilot bit on my hole saw.) Then I used a hole saw to cut the hole from inside the car.

This way I didn't have to remove the doors & worry about realigning them.

Tav

If any of You have these kind of grommets, I'd take a good care about a set

Bumping this to the top for a friend doing this conversion on his red cuda convertible.

Tav