Like Robert said, when putting the seal in, don't just peck on it, get it started and just knock in. Don't mess around with it, you'll get it cocked.
A poor boys way of putting the balancer back on is to use a crank bolt and washer from a small block. that will pull it up enough to use the big block bolt to finish pulling it in. If you have a impact wrench good, if not use a 1/2" drive ratcht and screw a couple of bolts into the balancer and use a pry bar to keep it from turning while you tighten it up. Good luck, and this is the way you learn.
"Them that can, do. Them that can't, teach."

So I now have the new Chain and Gears installed. What im wondering now is about the slack in the chain.

If you are looking at he chain and gears installed,the right side(drivers side) of the chain has slack and the left side(passenger side) is tight.

Is this normal?

Next thing is the timing chain cover gasket(s)and partial Oil Pan Gasket.

Is RTV (Permatex) recommended when installing these gaskets? If so,which type is best for these gaskets? I believe the gaskets I removed had the Orange RTV on them.

How much slack are you talking about? There should be almost none with a new chain.

It basically looks just like the pic I took of the old chain when it was still installed.Pic attached is of the new Chain and Gears installed for comparison with the pic of the old one which I already posted earlier.

I have installed the large crank bolt and turned the engine over by hand and in some areas,the opposite side of the chain gets loose,while the other side is tight.

Is this a normal occurance due to certain areas of the valve train being under load,either on the right or left bank?

Something is wrong ?????

Heres a pic I took while pushing in on the opposite side,right after I took the pic above.Hardly ANY slack,very taught compared to the opposite side.

The slack should be the same on each side when you push on that side. I'd put it together and run.

I plan on putting it together and running it,I had to ask about the new chain slack issue because I havent done one of these before(EVER)and so I wasnt sure what to expect.

Seems it may be normal.Ill run it and see what happens. Thanks for all the advice.

You will have some slack, not a lot, but some. Only one I know of that was SUPER tight was a Rollmaster I had one time.

Don't be surprised if that STP filter is just a repackaged Fram.

That's a oe replacement morse "silent" type and will have some slack even when new. If this is a low perf daily driver plus the fact that you already have it I'd put it together & get back on the road.

you didnt need to replace it the old one was fine... the stock chains and gears seem to have a lot of slack which is fine as long as you dont have nylon coated gears! i,m doing mine right now also not sure what i,ll find under the cover! could you do me a favor and see how much slack is in it by sticking the T cover and balancer on [lightly dont need to bolt em down] and rotating it back and forth at tdc 0 DEG and see if its more than 10 degrees of slack either direction ..if the covers are on and your able to do it now doesnt matter would still give me my answer thanks dan

Well I guess the old one may have been fine,It had about the same slack as the new one,you could see some wear on the Cam sprocket though.

Oh well,Its done. No worries,I can now say Ive done my first ever Timing Chain on a Big Block Mopar...Wasnt too hard at all. Its not like its a daily driver(yet)so I could just take my time on it.

Oh and it is gonna be a low performance(stock) engine,that I may use for hauling parts and maybe some towing.

They got some stuff called "Freeze-off" I think its a R-134 type CFC that you spray on a bolt and it gets it very cold and usually breaks free. I had a friend put a chevy balancer almost all the way on by hand using about 1/2 the can on the crank snout. It got COLD and shrunk a tad, like heating the balancer but easier!