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Re: Do I need a bigger Master Cylinder? [Re: RapidRobert] #657069
05/18/10 02:01 PM
05/18/10 02:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 576
Escondido, CA
kick_the_reverb Offline
mopar
kick_the_reverb  Offline
mopar

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 576
Escondido, CA
Cool, thanks for the update.
I think the 1976 K20 is supposed to be 1.25"
Anyway, this is half the battle, now we need to know if it actually solved the problem

Thanks,
Ran


"Hey mister, something's wrong with your car, it idles roughly" - number one comment I got in Israel when daily driving a 70 Barracuda with a lopey cam.

Currently working on - 1966 Dodge A100 van 318/auto
Finally - disc brakes on the front.
In the plans - rear disc brakes, B&M 250 blower
Re: Do I need a bigger Master Cylinder? [Re: kick_the_reverb] #657070
05/18/10 03:08 PM
05/18/10 03:08 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911
Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline OP
master
hooziewhatsit  Offline OP
master

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911
Oregon
Quote:

Cool, thanks for the update.
I think the 1976 K20 is supposed to be 1.25"
Anyway, this is half the battle, now we need to know if it actually solved the problem

Thanks,
Ran




Rockauto shows a 1 1/4 in '76, but it has a dimple for the booster pushrod; I need it to be ~1.5" deep. Otherwise the bolt spacing looks correct.

I can hog out the holes on the 98 dodge one, but then I won't be able to return it I'll probably do that later today and just hope it works


If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
Re: Do I need a bigger Master Cylinder? [Re: hooziewhatsit] #657071
05/20/10 05:23 PM
05/20/10 05:23 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911
Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline OP
master
hooziewhatsit  Offline OP
master

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911
Oregon
Done! (well, mostly)

I got the 98 dodge MC installed. Had to hog out the holes and shorten the booster pushrod by about 1/4". Fittings were different so I ran new lines from the distribution block to the MC.

Got everything bled, and the pedal is back to normal; ~1/3 to 1/2 the pedal travel and it's firm. Doesn't seem to take excessive pressure on the pedal to stop either.

The rears lock up first. Haven't locked up the fronts yet. Sure seems to stop the 5600# truck a lot better though

I still have the stock distribution block installed (my FSM doesn't indicate that it has a proportioning valve in it or not?). I have a handheld IR temperature gun I used to make sure the rears aren't dragging.

Now all I need to do is find a friend to weld up the brackets I made for the e-brake cables and get that hooked up. Otherwise, I think I'll call the brakes done, and move on to my next project: the sloppy steering


If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
Re: Do I need a bigger Master Cylinder? [Re: hooziewhatsit] #657072
05/21/10 02:08 PM
05/21/10 02:08 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 576
Escondido, CA
kick_the_reverb Offline
mopar
kick_the_reverb  Offline
mopar

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 576
Escondido, CA
Great!
Thanks for the update. I'll try the 98 Dodge MC and see if I can make it fit.

Thanks,
Ran


"Hey mister, something's wrong with your car, it idles roughly" - number one comment I got in Israel when daily driving a 70 Barracuda with a lopey cam.

Currently working on - 1966 Dodge A100 van 318/auto
Finally - disc brakes on the front.
In the plans - rear disc brakes, B&M 250 blower
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