Did you use body filler or glazing putty to fill the pits?
I am getting ready to do this. Looks very nice

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I used a spray bomb gray filler primer on my valve covers and lower control arms and sanded them with 320 grit. It took 2 or 3 times of filling and sanding but they came out good. The filler primer cost $19 per can at my local auto parts (not Auto Zone or any chain store). I hope to get the motor painted next weekend and start setting it up on the installation dolly.

Good progress. Car looks outstanding!! Looking forward to more pictures.

I hope to get rolling on the vent frames etc. this weekend...

Finally got my water pump issue resolved. I had to get my original one rebuilt after trying four different new pumps. None of the new pumps worked with A/C. They all had a bump out in the casting between the two top bolts that would not clear my A/C bracket. It set me back several weeks on getting the motor buttoned up and painted. Next I will tackle the heater and A/C box and get my dash in. Then I'll be ready to install the motor, front end and trans in from underneath.

This is what it looks like now. Not much has changed since Spring. Just been getting the motor together and still getting parts. Got some nice California rust free struts and a sway bar to replace my pitted ones, some power brake parts, detailed my LCA's and got all the front end parts bushed and ready to go. I did get the A833 cleaned up. I still have to go through it but other than changing some gaskets and seals, I don't think it will need anything major. In between all this, I had my biceps tendon restructured in my right arm. That slowed me down a little but it seems like it's healing pretty well. It will be fine in time to bang some gears! It will come together by Carlisle. My wife says so!

Awesome car and I am glad you are back to work on it! This is one of my favorite build threads fyi.

Car looks great! Hope that arm heals up soon.

Making a little more progress. I plan to dyno it on Saturday. I had a heck of a time with the repro fuel line because of the non-original pump configuration. I just want to get it running to make sure I don't have any leaks with the old water pipe nipples. I also want to get it started because this is my first small block and I am a little worried about having a hard time getting it running. I'd like to get it dialed in and break the cam in for one thing. I also want to see what kind of vacuum I have with the Bob K cam to get some comfort level that it will work OK with the A/C. It's an expensive addded cost to my resto but if I have to make any changes, I'd rather do it before I get everything in the car.

Another...by the way, I spent a lot of time fixing rust pits in the oil pan and valve covers. It was worth the trouble!

Looks good John

John,
do you have the right plastic clips for the valve cover to spark plug wires?
Looks like you have the early style on later style valve covers

John
That 69 looks awsome and I really like the day 2 look with the cragers
Doug

It has some of your parts on it!

I know its great to see them getting used
I have a blast with my 69

I got my motor running last Saturday on the dyno. My oil filter adapter was leaking, the bypass hose had a leak at the pipe nipple in the intake, one of the freeze plugs in the left head sprung a leak (the originals were never changed) and my carb was only running an 11:1 air fuel ratio (too rich). That was exactly why I decided to test it. I was not dynoing it to see what horsepower I had. I wanted to break in the cam, get it timed so that it would be just a matter of turning the key after it's installed, make sure that I had enough vacuum to run the A/C and that I did not have any other problems before I installed the motor complete with accessories and front suspension in from underneath. The test was a success in that respect. It was worth the trouble and cost when you consider the benefits of breaking the motor in on a dyno before installing it. It would have been a disaster if I didn't discover those leaks until after I had the motor completely in place with the A/C compressor, power steering pump and exhaust.

Good thing you had it tested before dropping it in. That would have been a pain to deal with once in the car. And then the risk of scratching the paint....

John, looks all too familiar!

Pictures of the correct valve cover wire holders. Notice it holds all 4 wires on the top one. I use weather strip cement on the forward/side two wire holder cause it kept falling off the valve cover. But you can't see the cement and its on there good now. I painted mine engine color don't know if that is correct or not. These are reproductions: