Re: Race car wiring
[Re: fastmark]
#592922
01/24/10 05:26 PM
01/24/10 05:26 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594 Kentucky
clovis
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Kentucky
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After initially making a few improvements, I finally wound up pulling everything out and wiring everything from scratch. At the end of day, you are dealiing with 40 year old wire, so I felt better by using new wire and running the correct size for each application. I bought a marine block that had both positive and negative in one block, so I only have one place to look if I have a problem. I ran a dedicated ground from the battery(trunk)to the block. It is not really a difficult task, if you will take the time to draw out a schematic.
I also did what you are describing with the gauge cluster. I put in oil pressure, tach, volt, and water along with my oil pressure and shift lights. I was even able to include a slot to change out my shift pills. I mounted some small terminal blocks so that the whole cluster is self contained as it just needs one ground, and two hots-one to the ignition and one to the lights. It makes it easier whenever I need to pull it.
'75 Plymouth Duster ‘65 Plymouth Belvedere
"For by grace you have been saved through faith. And this is not your own doing; it is the gift of God,"
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: clovis]
#592923
01/24/10 05:29 PM
01/24/10 05:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
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Quote:
After initially making a few improvements, I finally wound up pulling everything out and wiring everything from scratch. At the end of day, you are dealiing with 40 year old wire, so I felt better by using new wire and running the correct size for each application. I bought a marine block that had both positive and negative in one block, so I only have one place to look if I have a problem. I ran a dedicated ground from the battery(trunk)to the block. It is not really a difficult task, if you will take the time to draw out a schematic.
I also did what you are describing with the gauge cluster. I put in oil pressure, tach, volt, and water along with my oil pressure and shift lights. I was even able to include a slot to change out my shift pills. I mounted some small terminal blocks so that the whole cluster is self contained as it just needs one ground, and two hots-one to the ignition and one to the lights. It makes it easier whenever I need to pull it.
I did basicly the same thing. I just went back and rewired the back of it to simplify it alot. I was 20 or so when I wired it originally and I have learned alot in the last 11 years. It looks alot better back there now.
Last edited by Bad340fish; 01/24/10 05:30 PM.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: fastmark]
#592926
01/24/10 05:34 PM
01/24/10 05:34 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Since its a race car I'd pull all of the old wiring and install new... I like to make my own wiring harness and have the wires come out of the loom where I want them to terminate... looks cleaner and then use some plastic armor... forget the bulk head and run the harness through a rubber grommet ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wave.gif)
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: Bad340fish]
#592927
01/24/10 05:40 PM
01/24/10 05:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
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I also made a relay panel that goes in my glovebox. I have a turbo action switch console on my cheetah shifter. I wired and relayed every switch even though I won't use all of them. But, if I ever add something on I won't be pulling up carpet etc to add wiring. This way add ons are simple. I was able to use some 12 conductor wire so its all loomed together from the shifter to the relay panel. When I wire in my accessories I just plug them into the terminal block for the relay they need to be on. I have a power terminal behind the glovebox as well. My relay panel gets its power from this as well as the as the factory wiring. I killed the amp gauge when I did all of this. The only thing the factory wiring will do is run the lights and wipers. Everything else is going to be run from my shifter console. I have an iginition switch on the console but it still requires the key to be in the run position to start the car. It was more work than I planned on and if I were to do it agian I would buy a setup from painless or ARC. ![](http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs052.snc1/4475_1011753392095_1772821841_20351_1239927_n.jpg)
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: BJS racing]
#592932
03/21/10 08:09 PM
03/21/10 08:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048 Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
GTSDave
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048
Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
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I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price. http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless+Performance+Products/764/50005/10002/-1Now I may have a little different perspective on this as I worked electronic warfare systems to component level in the USAF. I was just going to take the easy way out and buy a harness to save time. I may still do it but can't for the life of me figure out why the 8 circuit setup is so expensive. -Dave
PLEASE Pray for our brothers and sisters in harms way. If you are the owner of a GTS us at the GTS Registry www.gtsregistry.com
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: GTSDave]
#592933
03/21/10 09:04 PM
03/21/10 09:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875 communist bloc of new jersey
jamesc
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
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Quote:
I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price.
when i first read this i figured how much could it really be? then i clicked the link (i've used them before and they weren't that expensive). you're dead right they're insane imho that's about three times what it's worth. i've wired from scratch, used painless and ARC. personally i like the ARC stuff i've used more than the painless. been some time since i did any systems maybe ARC has jacked their prices as well but that much money for that painless kit is way out of line.
as for the OP if this is a race car strip out all the factory wiring and put a decent kit in it. i've done a ton of automotive wiring (used to have a business doing car electronics) if you want some pointers PM me.
here's a link to summits ARC offerings
http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/ARC-Auto-Rod-Controls/
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: BJS racing]
#592934
03/21/10 09:15 PM
03/21/10 09:15 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366 Lehigh Acres, Florida
rickstershemi
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366
Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
Check out www.ezwiring.com I'm using one of their kits on my 68 Barracuda, wiring is good quality and extra beefy. You can find them on ebay, that's where I got mine, there was a killer deal that way. The prices are much better than Painless, the circuits are labeled every few inches just the same too. The only weak point is the wire to the starter is 8ga. Since I'm putting the battery in the trunk, it's getting used for the alternator->battery connection.
I just hope you don't ever need any tech. support help. When I was at Painless I had to help their customers with problems because they wouldn't. Everything they have is pretty much a direct copy of Painless. They have some problems with their crimps on the fuse terminals. Too many times I have heard about wiring falling out of the back of the fuse block .
Hey Jason, I know we just had this conversation a couple of weeks ago and thanks for the heads up on the chinese crap VR from Autozone...took it back pickup one up from Napa and it's all good...Thanks again ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbs.gif)
Now onto EZ Wiring....they may have had tech support problems in the past...don't know? What I do know is that I recently purchased and installed their 20 Circuit kit in out 83 Dodge truck project and it was only $130 to the door, quality kit and I did call and talk to tech on several occasions...they were always available (even on Sat) very friendly and knowledgeable....I would buy from them in a heartbeat ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbs.gif)
Like you said it is probably a Painless knock-off, but who cares, it's reasonable...IMHO Painless Kits are waaaaay over-priced ![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Twocents.gif)
Rickster
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: GTSDave]
#592935
03/21/10 09:32 PM
03/21/10 09:32 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542 BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Quote:
I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless+Performance+Products/764/50005/10002/-1
Now I may have a little different perspective on this as I worked electronic warfare systems to component level in the USAF.
I was just going to take the easy way out and buy a harness to save time. I may still do it but can't for the life of me figure out why the 8 circuit setup is so expensive.
-Dave
Try this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-50001/
It's the one I used. I just made my own switch panel.
The one you linked is outragous
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: WILD BILL]
#592936
03/22/10 03:25 AM
03/22/10 03:25 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586 Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
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FYI - Painless has a $100 Mail-in rebate good on purchases before March 31, 2010. Most of their main wire harnesses qualify. Go to the Painless site to download the rebate form. Only good on items purchased from a Retailer. So for example - an 18-circuit universal harness w/ fuse block #10201 for retails for $486 - Moparts discount to $385 - mail-in $100 rebate makes it $280. So if you are looking for a kit, pick out the part # from the painless site, let me know which one you want, and I will give you a quote and see if I have it in stock to get the receipt dated in time for the rebate. Scott ProStDodge@aol.com
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Re: Race car wiring
[Re: 72chrgrally]
#592939
03/22/10 08:04 AM
03/22/10 08:04 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224 Arlington, Tx.
BJS racing
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224
Arlington, Tx.
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If any of you are interested I am a Painless dealer also. If you would like a different quote then shoot me a PM. There will be shipping but I am pretty sure that I can probably do better then Jegs or Summitt.
Back in the swing of things at Painless again! Great to be back!
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