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Race car wiring #592921
01/24/10 04:33 PM
01/24/10 04:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,745
Abilene, Texas
F
fastmark Offline OP
master
fastmark  Offline OP
master
F

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,745
Abilene, Texas
I am ready to wire my 70 Challenger bracket car and I have two options. I have plenty of stock harnesses that I can use with stock gauges and all. I thought about putting the tach where the speedo is and the fuel pressure, oil pressure, water temp and tranny temp where the 4 original pods did go. I would need to shave all the backside of the original plastic gauge facing and just use it to mount the gauges on them. I would probably need an alum piece bent to go behind it for reinforcement. I want the headlights, taillights, done lights to work like normal with the regular switch panel. I would then just use the wires I needed and add the ones for my switches to run the water pump etc.

Or I could not use the old harness at all and get the painless setup and start from scratch. I don't like the ideal of the stock wires thru the bulk head connector and would not use the ameter gauge like factory. What do you guys have? Any pics would certainly help.

Re: Race car wiring [Re: fastmark] #592922
01/24/10 05:26 PM
01/24/10 05:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Kentucky
clovis Offline
mopar
clovis  Offline
mopar

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Kentucky
After initially making a few improvements, I finally wound up pulling everything out and wiring everything from scratch. At the end of day, you are dealiing with 40 year old wire, so I felt better by using new wire and running the correct size for each application. I bought a marine block that had both positive and negative in one block, so I only have one place to look if I have a problem. I ran a dedicated ground from the battery(trunk)to the block. It is not really a difficult task, if you will take the time to draw out a schematic.

I also did what you are describing with the gauge cluster. I put in oil pressure, tach, volt, and water along with my oil pressure and shift lights. I was even able to include a slot to change out my shift pills. I mounted some small terminal blocks so that the whole cluster is self contained as it just needs one ground, and two hots-one to the ignition and one to the lights. It makes it easier whenever I need to pull it.


'75 Plymouth Duster
‘65 Plymouth Belvedere

"For by grace you have been saved through faith. And this is not your own doing; it is the gift of God,"
Re: Race car wiring [Re: clovis] #592923
01/24/10 05:29 PM
01/24/10 05:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish Offline
master
Bad340fish  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
Quote:

After initially making a few improvements, I finally wound up pulling everything out and wiring everything from scratch. At the end of day, you are dealiing with 40 year old wire, so I felt better by using new wire and running the correct size for each application. I bought a marine block that had both positive and negative in one block, so I only have one place to look if I have a problem. I ran a dedicated ground from the battery(trunk)to the block. It is not really a difficult task, if you will take the time to draw out a schematic.

I also did what you are describing with the gauge cluster. I put in oil pressure, tach, volt, and water along with my oil pressure and shift lights. I was even able to include a slot to change out my shift pills. I mounted some small terminal blocks so that the whole cluster is self contained as it just needs one ground, and two hots-one to the ignition and one to the lights. It makes it easier whenever I need to pull it.




I did basicly the same thing. I just went back and rewired the back of it to simplify it alot. I was 20 or so when I wired it originally and I have learned alot in the last 11 years. It looks alot better back there now.

5757402-Shifter2.jpg (238 downloads)
Last edited by Bad340fish; 01/24/10 05:30 PM.

68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Race car wiring [Re: clovis] #592924
01/24/10 05:30 PM
01/24/10 05:30 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Kentucky
clovis Offline
mopar
clovis  Offline
mopar

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 594
Kentucky
back of cluster

5757407-gaugepanel3.jpg (556 downloads)

'75 Plymouth Duster
‘65 Plymouth Belvedere

"For by grace you have been saved through faith. And this is not your own doing; it is the gift of God,"
Re: Race car wiring [Re: Bad340fish] #592925
01/24/10 05:33 PM
01/24/10 05:33 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
WILD BILL  Offline
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
I started with nothing so the Painless 8 cir was the way to go for me.

It was a pretty easy install if you have any wiring experience.

Re: Race car wiring [Re: fastmark] #592926
01/24/10 05:34 PM
01/24/10 05:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Since its a race car I'd pull all of the old wiring
and install new... I like to make my own wiring harness
and have the wires come out of the loom where I want
them to terminate... looks cleaner and then use some
plastic armor... forget the bulk head and run the
harness through a rubber grommet

Re: Race car wiring [Re: Bad340fish] #592927
01/24/10 05:40 PM
01/24/10 05:40 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish Offline
master
Bad340fish  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,136
Tulsa OK
I also made a relay panel that goes in my glovebox. I have a turbo action switch console on my cheetah shifter. I wired and relayed every switch even though I won't use all of them. But, if I ever add something on I won't be pulling up carpet etc to add wiring. This way add ons are simple. I was able to use some 12 conductor wire so its all loomed together from the shifter to the relay panel. When I wire in my accessories I just plug them into the terminal block for the relay they need to be on.

I have a power terminal behind the glovebox as well. My relay panel gets its power from this as well as the as the factory wiring. I killed the amp gauge when I did all of this. The only thing the factory wiring will do is run the lights and wipers. Everything else is going to be run from my shifter console. I have an iginition switch on the console but it still requires the key to be in the run position to start the car.

It was more work than I planned on and if I were to do it agian I would buy a setup from painless or ARC.



68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Race car wiring [Re: fastmark] #592928
01/24/10 07:06 PM
01/24/10 07:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 289
So. IL. USA
PLUM BAD Offline
enthusiast
PLUM BAD  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 289
So. IL. USA
I rewired everything on my car except the taillight and front park lamp harneses. Most of my gauges are in the dash also. Used a ARC soft touch switch panel for the starter, ign., and acc. I have everything on the car working (brake, reverse, dome lights)






Re: Race car wiring [Re: PLUM BAD] #592929
01/24/10 09:44 PM
01/24/10 09:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,745
Abilene, Texas
F
fastmark Offline OP
master
fastmark  Offline OP
master
F

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,745
Abilene, Texas
This going to be a non electronics car so It will not have too many electronics on the car. The more I think about it, I think the painless wiring and switch panel may be the way to go. I could still use a few of the original wires for the headlights, taillights and dome light. Thanks guys

Re: Race car wiring [Re: fastmark] #592930
01/25/10 11:08 PM
01/25/10 11:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,396
The Pale Blue Dot
Skeptic Offline
master
Skeptic  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,396
The Pale Blue Dot
Check out www.ezwiring.com I'm using one of their kits on my 68 Barracuda, wiring is good quality and extra beefy. You can find them on ebay, that's where I got mine, there was a killer deal that way. The prices are much better than Painless, the circuits are labeled every few inches just the same too. The only weak point is the wire to the starter is 8ga. Since I'm putting the battery in the trunk, it's getting used for the alternator->battery connection.

Re: Race car wiring [Re: Skeptic] #592931
01/26/10 08:56 AM
01/26/10 08:56 AM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224
Arlington, Tx.
B
BJS racing Offline
top fuel
BJS racing  Offline
top fuel
B

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224
Arlington, Tx.
Quote:

Check out www.ezwiring.com I'm using one of their kits on my 68 Barracuda, wiring is good quality and extra beefy. You can find them on ebay, that's where I got mine, there was a killer deal that way. The prices are much better than Painless, the circuits are labeled every few inches just the same too. The only weak point is the wire to the starter is 8ga. Since I'm putting the battery in the trunk, it's getting used for the alternator->battery connection.




I just hope you don't ever need any tech. support help. When I was at Painless I had to help their customers with problems because they wouldn't. Everything they have is pretty much a direct copy of Painless. They have some problems with their crimps on the fuse terminals. Too many times I have heard about wiring falling out of the back of the fuse block .


Back in the swing of things at Painless again! Great to be back!
Re: Race car wiring [Re: BJS racing] #592932
03/21/10 08:09 PM
03/21/10 08:09 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048
Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
GTSDave Offline
master
GTSDave  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,048
Richmond, Tx. (Houston)
I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless+Performance+Products/764/50005/10002/-1

Now I may have a little different perspective on this as I worked electronic warfare systems to component level in the USAF.

I was just going to take the easy way out and buy a harness to save time. I may still do it but can't for the life of me figure out why the 8 circuit setup is so expensive.

-Dave


PLEASE Pray for our brothers and sisters in harms way.

If you are the owner of a GTS us at the GTS Registry www.gtsregistry.com
Re: Race car wiring [Re: GTSDave] #592933
03/21/10 09:04 PM
03/21/10 09:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
J
jamesc Offline
master
jamesc  Offline
master
J

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
Quote:

I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price.




when i first read this i figured how much could it really be? then i clicked the link (i've used them before and they weren't that expensive). you're dead right they're insane imho that's about three times what it's worth. i've wired from scratch, used painless and ARC. personally i like the ARC stuff i've used more than the painless. been some time since i did any systems maybe ARC has jacked their prices as well but that much money for that painless kit is way out of line.

as for the OP if this is a race car strip out all the factory wiring and put a decent kit in it. i've done a ton of automotive wiring (used to have a business doing car electronics) if you want some pointers PM me.

here's a link to summits ARC offerings

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/ARC-Auto-Rod-Controls/

Re: Race car wiring [Re: BJS racing] #592934
03/21/10 09:15 PM
03/21/10 09:15 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366
Lehigh Acres, Florida
rickstershemi Offline
master
rickstershemi  Offline
master

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9,366
Lehigh Acres, Florida
Quote:

Quote:

Check out www.ezwiring.com I'm using one of their kits on my 68 Barracuda, wiring is good quality and extra beefy. You can find them on ebay, that's where I got mine, there was a killer deal that way. The prices are much better than Painless, the circuits are labeled every few inches just the same too. The only weak point is the wire to the starter is 8ga. Since I'm putting the battery in the trunk, it's getting used for the alternator->battery connection.




I just hope you don't ever need any tech. support help. When I was at Painless I had to help their customers with problems because they wouldn't. Everything they have is pretty much a direct copy of Painless. They have some problems with their crimps on the fuse terminals. Too many times I have heard about wiring falling out of the back of the fuse block .




Hey Jason, I know we just had this conversation a couple of weeks ago and thanks for the heads up on the chinese crap VR from Autozone...took it back pickup one up from Napa and it's all good...Thanks again

Now onto EZ Wiring....they may have had tech support problems in the past...don't know? What I do know is that I recently purchased and installed their 20 Circuit kit in out 83 Dodge truck project and it was only $130 to the door, quality kit and I did call and talk to tech on several occasions...they were always available (even on Sat) very friendly and knowledgeable....I would buy from them in a heartbeat

Like you said it is probably a Painless knock-off, but who cares, it's reasonable...IMHO Painless Kits are waaaaay over-priced

Rickster

Re: Race car wiring [Re: GTSDave] #592935
03/21/10 09:32 PM
03/21/10 09:32 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
WILD BILL  Offline
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
Quote:

I almost pulled the trigger on the Painless 8 circuit drag race setup today, but just couldn't swallow the price.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless+Performance+Products/764/50005/10002/-1

Now I may have a little different perspective on this as I worked electronic warfare systems to component level in the USAF.

I was just going to take the easy way out and buy a harness to save time. I may still do it but can't for the life of me figure out why the 8 circuit setup is so expensive.

-Dave






Try this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-50001/


It's the one I used. I just made my own switch panel.

The one you linked is outragous

Re: Race car wiring [Re: WILD BILL] #592936
03/22/10 03:25 AM
03/22/10 03:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge Offline
master
ProStDodge  Offline
master

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
FYI - Painless has a $100 Mail-in rebate good on purchases before March 31, 2010. Most of their main wire harnesses qualify. Go to the Painless site to download the rebate form. Only good on items purchased from a Retailer.

So for example - an 18-circuit universal harness w/ fuse block #10201 for retails for $486 - Moparts discount to $385 - mail-in $100 rebate makes it $280.

So if you are looking for a kit, pick out the part # from the painless site, let me know which one you want, and I will give you a quote and see if I have it in stock to get the receipt dated in time for the rebate.

Scott
ProStDodge@aol.com

Re: Race car wiring [Re: ProStDodge] #592937
03/22/10 06:24 AM
03/22/10 06:24 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,667
Arizona
C
Chris'sBarracuda Offline
master
Chris'sBarracuda  Offline
master
C

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,667
Arizona
I used ARC and liked it very much. Price is good too.

Here is another choice for you K & R

http://www.krperformance.com/wiringkits.cfm



Chris..

Re: Race car wiring [Re: fastmark] #592938
03/22/10 07:46 AM
03/22/10 07:46 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,287
Hamilton,Ont
7
72chrgrally Offline
top fuel
72chrgrally  Offline
top fuel
7

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,287
Hamilton,Ont
There is a wiring section over on yellowbullet that is very good. They cover a lot of topics from wiring fuel injection controlers to 16v batteries to floating ground systems, check it out. The also know whwere to get many difficlt to find wiring parts.
Steve

Re: Race car wiring [Re: 72chrgrally] #592939
03/22/10 08:04 AM
03/22/10 08:04 AM
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224
Arlington, Tx.
B
BJS racing Offline
top fuel
BJS racing  Offline
top fuel
B

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,224
Arlington, Tx.
If any of you are interested I am a Painless dealer also. If you would like a different quote then shoot me a PM. There will be shipping but I am pretty sure that I can probably do better then Jegs or Summitt.


Back in the swing of things at Painless again! Great to be back!
Re: Race car wiring [Re: BJS racing] #592940
03/22/10 08:27 PM
03/22/10 08:27 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 485
Raleigh, NC
J
j.mcconnell Offline
mopar
j.mcconnell  Offline
mopar
J

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 485
Raleigh, NC
When using a ARC 8000 panel, is there a way to wire the key into the start circuit as a safety/theft deterrent? I've been thinking through it but still not sure.

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