Are 70-74 Dodge challenger doors the same or is there some difference ,thanks

'70's are unique. I am not sure if '71's are different from '72-'74's.

Only differences that would matter if interchanging pertain to the door glass & certain glass items: upper stops, track bolt access hole locations, etc.

Does anyone have side-by-side pictures?

I generally agree with what has been said above. There are some differences, but nothing that you couldn't make work if you needed a door. It is still a good idea to be aware of what you're doing though so that you know what you'll need.

I do have some pictures of a 70 challenger door, and also a later door which I believe is a 71 or maybe 72. There are also other differences in the later 73 or 74 doors. My research on this subject is not yet complete. I don't have time to find the pictures and post them at the moment (on lunch break). I'll try to see if I can find them later. Maybe they will generate some conversation and I'll learn something new.

Tav

As I recall the 70 also has more lower door panel clips and the upper inner bracing is not as robust.

As far as I know, all the doors had the same # of door panel clip holes which would be 7 holes towards the bottom of the door. It's very possible that the 70 door panels used all of these holes, while the later door panels may have only used some of those holes, I'm not sure.

As far as the upper inner bracing not being as robust, I agree totally. On the 70 doors it is a single layer of sheetmetal, while the later doors use a double layer. No big deal as far as interchange goes, both would work.

The easiest way to spot a 70 door is by the oval holes the cat whiskars clips go into. The later doors use screws to hold the cat whiskars on. If you try to put a 70 door on a non 70 car, you'll need two sets of cat whiskars because the oval holes for the clips are right where the round screw holes should be, and you won't have anything to screw into. On my own car, I had a non 70 door on my 70 and used a dremel to make the screw holes oval so they would accept the 70 style clips so that I wouldn't have to buy two sets of cat whiskars.

I've heard that At some point, 73-74ish I think, the window regulators were changed from a plastic slider in the track, to some kind of roller bearing in the track, and that this new setup required a few more holes in the door for access to bolts for adjustments, etc. It seems there would be at least 3 different doors then. 70 only. 71-whenever the regulator change happened. After the regulator change.

I'll try to write more later. Still looking for those pics.

Tav

'73-4 doors are heavier and have extra bracing to protect occupants from side-impact crashes.

'70s (and early '71s) have provisions for the clip-in style catwhiskers as mentioned.

While I'm sure that there are a host of year-year changes from '70-'74 - external dimensions/appearance are all the same and they are fully interchangeable.

Hardware, latches and regulators will work in all, though as mentioned early regulators & glass are different. (11 hole v. 9 hole). This may have something to do with power windows....)

The door mirrors are different so are the mounting holes differently spaced or the same?

Spacing for the mirror holes (Rivnuts) are the same for all years - only the base is longer from '71-up.

On B-bodies, they went to a 'wide stance' in '73-4, which is not correct for E-bodies (though the shape/size of the mirror is the same

Thanks.

Found some pics, here we go...

First off, some info. This car is a 1970 Challenger with a scheduled production date of August 26, 1969. An early car, but well into regular production. The drivers door is original. The car was T boned on the passenger side sometime, and that passenger door was replaced with a non-1970 door. Due to other parts that were replaced at the same time, I'm guessing that the passenger door is off of a 71, but I'm not positive. I only know for sure that it's not from 1970.

Keep in mind that this is a comparison of a Drivers door to a Passenger door, so it's not exactly an apples to apples comparison. Still, as far as I know, the only real difference in mounting holes between the driver and passenger door is the provisions for the remote mirror cable on the drivers side. As far as I know, the sheetmetal on all drivers doors came with provisions for this remote mirror cable, even if the car came with a non-remote drivers mirror.

Ideally I plan on going to a mopar junkyard I know of and comparing only drivers doors. The drivers doors have the VIN decal showing build date, which will help me track differences. Until then, this is what I have so far.

That I can tell, the door skin did not change from 70-74.

The rivnut spacing is the same on 70 non remote oval mirrors, 70 remote short base mirrors, 71-74 non remote round mirrors, & 71-74 remote long base mirrors. Not all cars had passenger side mirrors, so if you're swapping a passenger door, you may need to fill or drill mirror holes as needed. I've looked into the subject of passenger side mirror location quite a bit, and near as I can tell, the passenger mirror location measurements are supposed to match the drivers side measurements, although a lot of people adding a mirror have just eyeballed it.

Although earlier Challenger exterior door handles are concave to match the body of the car, while later handles were flat to be universal with the barracuda models, the sheetmetal of the door itself remained concave in this area and did not change 70-74. For this reason, the earlier concave handles will fit best, even though they are not "correct" for a later car.

I think the stainless steel trim that goes on top of the door on some cars is held on with metal clips. A door with this trim would have holes for the metal clips. Adding or deleting this trim on a donor door for your car may take a little work, but could be done.

I haven't had a chance to investigate body side molding on many doors yet. Info is appreciated.

Tav

That I can tell, there were no changes to the rear end of the door from 70-74.

The door latch mechanism itself had a (somewhat inconvenient) anti-lockout feature in 1970, while 71-74 cars did not have this. Either latch will bolt up and work without problems.

If you had them, Door edge protectors just clip on, no mounting holes required.

Tav

Here's the front end of the door.

Power Windows were an option on the 70-71 cars. It's pretty easy to drill the wiring grommet hole in the door, but it would be more difficult to fill the hole if you didn't need it, so watch out for that if you're door hunting.

The thick threaded metal plate that the hinge bolts screw into inside the door is retained in place by bending metal tabs over its edges on the early doors. I suspect that the late doors changed to a welded in cage to retain the thick threaded metal plate, but I haven't seen this on a door yet. (I have seen it on the other side of the door hinge behind the kick panel.) This would be a minor difference that doesn't affect fit or function and is not visible after assembly.

Tav

This is a picture of the inside of the 1970 door.

Tav

This is a picture of the inside of the non-1970 door.

(The cat whiskar holes are oval on this door because I used a dremel to make them match my 1970 door so that my cat whiskars would go on.)

Tav

2nd pic of the same non-1970 door.

Tav