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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: sg66mopar]
#576341
01/07/10 10:16 PM
01/07/10 10:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
dusturbd340W5
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,616
Kissimmee Fl.
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my mini neipn denso puts kicks on at 800 rpm so it is charging at an idle.
70 duster full chassis super pro 416 CNC Indybrock heads 727 w/brake
best so far 1.212 60 6.219 in 1/8 at 110.88 9.768 at 137.81 1/4
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: jamesc]
#576343
01/07/10 10:27 PM
01/07/10 10:27 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
#576344
01/07/10 10:29 PM
01/07/10 10:29 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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i forgot to mention that i run a JONES mini alternator on my other 2 cars. i believe they are 65 amp alternators, really nice pieces.
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
#576345
01/07/10 10:44 PM
01/07/10 10:44 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,443
Maryland
Dads426
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,443
Maryland
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We have a GM one-wire on ours and the only problem I had was low voltage output at idle with the small Moroso crank pulley. Put the stock pulley on and the voltage was much better. I think the aftermarket alts work much better at lower speed.
2012 422 Allstars NSS Champion
2013 422 Allstars NSS Champion
2014 422 Allstars NSS Champion
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: Dads426]
#576346
01/07/10 10:51 PM
01/07/10 10:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
jamesc
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
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Quote:
I think the aftermarket alts work much better at lower speed.
in some case there may be a little truth to this but for the most part i don't think there's any real magic. imho the majority of these "racing" alternators are standard alternators of different designs/combinations that mostly have a hefty price tag. you can get a nice denso one that will do the job at just about any boneyard for a lot less money. pretty much all the small ones are denso's the ones i first used came off a kubota diesel. personally i'd be hard pressed to spend the money they're getting for the so called race one's.
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: CDoering]
#576349
01/08/10 12:38 AM
01/08/10 12:38 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
dave571
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
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What are you running for batteries? Just curious, as I run two batt's and the alt. I still use a factory style 78 amp alt. I was finding that with it running, the alt was fine and starting int the pits no problem, BUT if I ran the fans in the lanes, and then tried to start it on a hot day, after some hot lapping, it was REALLY tough. With the two batt's, that has been eliminated. I guess where I'm going with this, is if you are running two batteries now, and plan on keeping it that way but just adding an alternator, then almost any alternator should meet your needs 
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: sg66mopar]
#576350
01/08/10 12:42 AM
01/08/10 12:42 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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I use a denso unit... pretty sure its a 75 amp and I use a external regulator(the high output reg from Mopar)... I've never charged the battery(single) in years 
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: jamesc]
#576351
01/08/10 01:01 AM
01/08/10 01:01 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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Quote:
lot of options for charging systems. most of the smaller ones are denso, a lot of people use the gm single wire as well. imho too many people run without a charging system and i can't figure out why especially when using electronic ignition which most are today. i mean how much is it really going to slow you down measured against the problems that running without one can/does cause. if you need more output at lower speed you can almost always spin them faster. most of them can survive fairly high drive speeds.
Also
The battery is most often over looked in a a race car. Its crazy not to run a alt in todays race cars.
I have run around the pits trying to charge a battery for next round, hooking up, unhooking..Its just not worth it.
Most guys think hey if it starts its ok to race. A drained battery will KILL CONSISTENCY!!
Those high flow fuel pumps flow good with a constant voltage, but going down the track the battery draw is in overload trying to keep up with everything..That big fuel pump isnt flowing what it should when its only getting 11 volts or so. This is when engine output is at the highest point at the end of a run.
IMHO
First a alt isnt there to "Fix" a drained battery. Its purpose is to supply and maintain a level of output, and to keep a good charged battery well Charged.. Although it will charge up a dead battery, honestly we should NOT be racing with a battery in this condition. But we do..
If your battery will not charge up and hold 12.2 volts it needs replaced period..
IMO
A deep cycle battery has no purpose in a race car.
a 800-850 CCA battery should be plenty..Charge it up before every race and check the volatge before you leave...If its not 12.2...replace it.
Most dont like the little alt cause they dont charge well at idle, there is ways to fix this, but really at idle is not what a race car is about. Even the little alt will help your ignition box and your fuel pump working properly.
So IMo putting a alt back on your car is a smart choice.
Go to the junk yard and look for late 80's 4 cylinder GM cars...Grand Am's, Cavaliers etc.. They have what you need and the local starter service guy can convert it to a one wire deal for probably under $50 which will include a rebuild and replacement of worn parts.
Last edited by Bob_Coomer; 01/08/10 01:03 AM.
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: AndyF]
#576354
01/08/10 02:20 PM
01/08/10 02:20 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,288
Oregon
sg66mopar
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,288
Oregon
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Andy, I'm running a tube chassis and motor plates. I think I'd need a pretty big hole in the front plate for that to work.  Any other suggestions. Also, has anybody actually checked their alternator for Amperage output at idle or just above? If I can't get one that honestly puts out around 35 or more at idle and maybe 50 down the return road I don't see the point. Just more weight on the nose. I've run two group 24 deep cycle batteries in the trunk forever and the car's always been consistent. My reason for even considering this is the "hot lap" scenario these days at division and national events. Oh yeah, same thing last two rounds at PIR on Wednesday nights with the 10 PM curfew.
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: TS3303]
#576356
01/08/10 02:52 PM
01/08/10 02:52 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,590
Indy
joshking440
Lunch is on me!
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Lunch is on me!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,590
Indy
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Quote:
Bob, thanks for the alternator info 
Andy your stuff is always like jewelry!
sg66 since your in Oregon near Andy drop your car off and let him design all kinds of brackets for us motor plate guys.
Yea, one that mounts on the other side of the engine as well....
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Re: Racing Alternator Help
[Re: AndyF]
#576359
01/08/10 09:19 PM
01/08/10 09:19 PM
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,981
SE Michigan
TS3303
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,981
SE Michigan
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Quote:
I build motor plate kits for the 8162 alternator. I also make the billet pulley for the 8162 alternator.
everyone wants to put the alternator right next to the crank trigger pickup???? maybe I'm just paranoid but I'd rather have it on the passenger side up high. or I need to make a new bracket and move the pickup?
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