Those look great Keith.

Do you have any photos of the rear attachment points?

Looks good. Our 71' 340 Roadrunner ran high 12's and would flex bad enough to pop the speakers out of the rear package tray, it had no cage in it, and at the time had no frame connectors. I prefer to have stuff like this welded in but it looks pretty stout with 3 big blots on each end.

Deleted after seeing some more pics

Any kits for A-body vehicles? I didn't see these even listed on the website.

One important point to all of this that the system is bolted in. This can be done by most any car guy lying on his back under the car with really basic tools. Not everybody has a hoist.

I have looked at other set ups that interfere with the e-brake cables, the stock fuel lines and the brakes lines. My e-brake cables are off because of the system I had originally.

I used to have the Lakewood hoop. If any of you have ever used one you know it doesnt fit our cars. I had to cut, weld and drill it to fit. Then I had to find a spot to mount it without interfering with my seat and seat belt mounting. I ended up bolting it to the seat bolts.

My car is a street, strip and show car which is what most of the hobby is. That being said I didn't want to weld a bunch of tubes, bars and sheet metal frame ties to the car and the floor pan. Then I would have to repaint the entire bottom of the car.
The square plates with four bolts near the rockers are the backing plates for the roll bar. There is a gusset that will go from the plate to the tube on each side tying this to the roll bar. That part is welded and this installation was all the bolted together stuff. I'll post some pictures when the gussets are on (I need to finish my snowmobile first for a trip in two weeks).

I am really impressed with all the technical knowledge the here members have!! I am sure there are a million ways to do this but short of building a dedicated race car this is good way to go for a street car. If I was going to build the perfect set up it would be a chassis car just for racing but you can't take the kids for ice cream in a chassis car!!!

Some day down the road if I want to I can unbolt all the safety and race stuff, put the air grabber hood back on, put the numbers engine back in, the steel wheels back on and the car is a restored RoadRunner not a cut up race car.

P.S. There is an E-Body and A-body set up as well, none of these are on the web site, Jack said he has been busy in the shop and not working on the web site.

The rear attachment point is at the spring hanger. It bolts on using the spring hanger nuts. One of the major functions of this setup is to strengthen the spring hanger attachment point on the chassis as well as serve as a stout sub-frame connector. All of the forces of the spring are sent through sheet metal that is at best, inadequate. Especially on a car that has some power and hooks. This is why HEMI cars have the spring hanger boxes. The factory found it necessary to strenghthen this area on a stock car, but most people never even realize this as an issue on a nice street strip car with good tires. A nice street strip car with today's technology tires puts way more abuse on the stock spring hanger mount than any stock HEMI car did when it was new. These sub-frame connectors transfer the energy across a lot more of the chassis of the car. Now, with this setup, the energy goes from the spring hanger mount, through the tube and all the way into the front sub-frame. This alone strengthens the car a great deal, especially on a hard launch.

Jack Irons Jr.
www.unlawfulracing.com

Super nice setup. I want it.

I'm not by my pics (i'm on my iPhone) I'll post some tomorrow. Keith, do you have any right now?

-Jack Irons Jr
www.unlawfulracing.com

Sorry, the hoist is in the way and there is another car under it.

Man what did I say about this kit????

Didn't notice the tubing used for the frame connector is bent. Also didn't realize the plate for your roll cage is not part of the connector.

Here is something to think about. A straight peice of alluminum tubing. You can walk around and push ceiling tiles out of position and even slide boxes off the top shelf with it. Now take it and put the slightest bend in the tubing. Go back and try to do the things you tried before. You can't the bend just get's worse.

Tubing is bent all the time in race cars. But, if you notice there is a supporting structure welded in to support that bend.

So, what is the verdict on this installation and product versus the lazer cut weld to the floor connectors that XV motorsports and US Car Tool offer? I realize this is a much easier installation than the others, but for more of a handling/touring type of car, which would be the stiffest & best for someone who is unwilling to install a cage?

The place the tube connected is in the rear is almost ideal, and better then most, the bent tube without any triangulation/support, not so good

You guys put way to much tought into things!!!!
This is not an 8sec car,nor is a most of the cars that will be using this.Will I run this setup probley not.But it looks like it will do just fine.Hell it's better than nothing.For years all I've run is 1 5/8s tubing for frame conecters,no problems in lots of cars and passes.

I don't see these connectors listed on the website
What are the applications and price?