Is anyone using 2" B-body headers or are they all smaller?

Well I had custom headers made for my car. They are 2" to 2 1/8" step headers. I can get to all my spark plugs easily, there are NO sharp bends or dings, I can remove my starter in less than 5 minutes, I can remove or install them quickley with no drama, AND I have maximum ground clearance as they are tucked up nice and tight to the floor pans.

Great investment over the long haul, one of the best moves I made on my car.

These are my homemade ones. Modified b-body headers of unknown make.

NHRAMark, custom is definitely the best way to go, I just didn't have an extra $700 laying around. When I do I can always sell these and get some customs. But for now they're on there and seem to fit pretty good.

When I first built my Dart 15 years ago I did not want cut the car. So this really limited my options especially back then.
I purchased a set of then first issue CPPA headers with 2" primaries down to a 3 1/2" collector.
The clearance issues were ridiculous. I had to finesse the #7 and #8 tube for plug wire clearance.I had to basically crush one tube for Pitman arm clearance and YES it does capture the starter.
I had them in the car for over 12 years. 3 years ago when I built the new motor for the car I looked at other options. Now again not wanting to cut the car really limited my options, BUT atleast there are other options out there now.
I was going to go with Schumacher try-Y header which I think are 1 5/8" primary that step up to 1 3/4" to a 2 1/2" ball type exhaust flange.
Was real tempted with these when saw them in a friends Duster, The fit was awesome BUT was leary of the size of the tubes.
I ended up coming across a Set of New TTI underchassis headers from a failed project for $150. I went with these as my exhaust at the time was built for the CPPA's. Now these are basically the old CPPA header with the clearance issues "supposedly" have been corrected....
What I found was, plug clearance was better but still not optimal and I massaged a few to make it a little better.
I still had to dimple the tube for the pitman arm clearance AND ground down the tip of the stud to the very top of the hole for the cotter pin. One thing I did not have to due that much banging on TTI as I had to do on the CPPA's for the pitman arm clearance.
Having an RB surely helped. I would assume with a low deck that the clearance surely would of been much worse.
Still encases the starter and Manual steering is a must.
Plug changes are still time consuming BUT I have made or modified different sockets and wrenches over the years to make the job easier. I can change 1,3,5,7 in about 10 minutes, 2,4,8 in about another 10 minutes, all from up top. #6 WHOA what a PITA!!! I have to change this one from underneath with socket,wrench on the end of it getting little turns as open space is extremely limited and VERY tight as takes about 10-15 minutes on its own.
I guess it would be easier IF I was to make an access hole in the fenderwell but I deal with it. Plug wires need periodic replacement and should be checked regularly depending upon amount of use for burns.
Plugs #7,6 & 8 are close to the tube. On these inbween the tube and boot I use some header wrap as a buffer.
Now with installation of the motor. I put the motor,trans,and headers in with everything bolted up.
I used to put it in from the top with the steering column removed and the torsion bars removed as well. This made it very easy to do, depending on the type of oil pan you were using. I tried the same method again when I had the motor out for freshening up. I changed out my oil pan to a Milodon low profile wedge style oil pan instead of the tried and true Moroso pan I used to run.
With the wedge profile milodon I had to notch out the k-frame lip for clearance which I did not know about until it fought me tooth and nail trying to get the motor and then I finally saw what the hang up was.
The other way I have put the motor in is from underneath already bolted up to the k-frame. This is by far the easiest and best way to do it in my opinion ESPECIALLY if the car is painted.
Now for future removal/install and hopefully not for loooooooooooooooooong time This is the way I will do it from now on.
Whew I have to take a nap now

I have Mad-dawg 2" headers on mine now with low deck 440-1's with a little mod. to #7 and #4. #7 had to be cut and dinged to miss the steering, and #4 hit the torsion bar. Besides that not too bad at all. I bought them off ebay for 550$ I beleive. They fit perfect with my low deck w/ stg 6 heads. This is all with rack-n-pinion steering so can't say about steering clearance.

I guess you need to figure out if you want max performance or just something that will work and kill the performance.

I am using Stahl Headers in my 68 Dart. They were on a low deck with 440-1's. They are 2 1/8 to 4 inch collectors. They are real close to equal length I think with in and inch. There are 3 out and 1 in on both sides. no dinging needed. The only adjustment made was when I went to the new style master cyl I have to move on of the tubes around.

Pics are in the tech section of bigblockdart.com


forgot, they will run you just over a grand. they are slip fit and very, very nice.

MoparTony,

Do you have a web link for the Stahl headers?

OOPS found it. WOW they are pricey. $1,450.00!

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Web321P_1.html

Doesn't say what transmissions will work. I have elephant ears with a 4-Speed on a Low deck with Indy SR's. My Pro-Parts seem to fit very well during mock up. They are an older set of headers, and are getting thin in a couple of places.

Would consider going with the Stahl if I knew for sure they would fit. The will work better with my engine combo though as my ProParts will be a little bit on the small side.

-Dave

Youse got two choices,both underbody since fenderwell headers on a street car suck. tti for manual trans. A-bodies or Schumachers tri-y if you're running a slushbox.

I did find a set of 383-400ci B-body headers at Carlisle this weekend but nothing for a RB motor.

I was hoping to find something so I could check out the fit with a 440.

The origional "ProParts" headers are no longer being produced and have not been for several years. Anyone that bought them recently simply purchased old inventory which is fine. Bob Mazzolini recently had them remade and improved and also offers a 2 - 2 1/8 step header in the same design. I believe that TTI is producing the headers specifically for Bob. They are not cheap either. They are right up there in price as the standard TTI stuff and Hooker Super Comp prices. Still cheaper than custom. I believe they are like $850 or so. Im not sure, so you would have to contact Bob Direct. I recently asked Bob how they were selling and he said surprisingly well despite the recession. He thinks the economy is starting to turn around because people are buying his headers again.LOL. ANyways Bobs number is 951-787-8783.

I LOVE my hooker 2" fenderwells.

the headers come out 10 minutes--the starter in 5 . The plugs are easy to get to . No complaints except they burnt some paint on the firewall...