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I made my own. 1/4" flat bar,1 1/2" wide and a couple of bolts. Just make sure not to place them near the tires.

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Its mostly trial and error. But its easy and cheap. I had to keep a clamp on the rear because after the springs seperated and then came back together, the leafs would sandwich the rear valance. I finally cut a couple of inchs off the ends of some leafs to stop that. And yes, it does help 60'.
Brian

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Totally cool race car you have there, Brian! Thanks for the tips.

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More importantly, do they work. MP makes 'em with a $40.00 price tag. I could make them up at a quarter of the cost. Is it worth it? Nothing exotic about my rear suspension; just HD springs and a adjustable pinion snubber.

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I made my own. 1/4" flat bar,1 1/2" wide and a couple of bolts. Just make sure not to place them near the tires.

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Notice any difference in your launch or 60' times?

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I used them on my M.W. stocker way back before super stock or replacement leaf springs where legal in NHRA stock class cars. They diffinitly made a difference on that car on those springs, I have since used them on SS springs on a 440 motor A body bracket car, that car liked the clamps on every leaf on the front half and one on the back half right behind the rear end, 1st or 2nd leaf behind the rear end, I can't remember which Make up a bunch of them with the proper 3/8 bolt lengths for the different locations on the springs so you can add or removed them at the track to get the best 60 ft. times, make sure and install them with the cars weight on the springs, preferrably with someone in the drivers seat that is similar in weight to you Another thing you may want to try is to remove the plastic pads (insulators) from the springs also, that usually requires disassembling the springs to get all of them out That is worth doing on a race car that your trying to get every hundred of a second out of

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Made my own years ago as well; my car likes 2 per side in front, and seems to prefer no clamps on the rear section.
1.5 x 4.5, 3/8 plate, 3/8 holes 3.00 to 3.25 apart, and a couple different lengths of 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 bolts with washers & locking nuts, and you're good to go. Drill them in pairs, clamped together, using a drill press, chamfer any sharp edges, and paint 'em, and you're done.

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Storm, it seems to apply the tires better on my car, a couple hundredths quicker to 60' on a moderately-grippy track. Other guys have had the opposite experience with their cars, though.

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i have been debating this for a while.when i baught the springs from mancini thay said not to remove the bands.[heavy car,lots of TQ.]