Re: Chemical rust removal on roof skin?
[Re: burdar]
#514088
11/02/09 03:44 PM
11/02/09 03:44 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503 Sooner state
Slim Smitty
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503
Sooner state
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Sand it with 80 grit to get the heavy stuff off, wipe the junk off the surface, then apply Picklex 20 several times with a brush. Picklex is a one-step metal prep that works really well. Not near the hassle of jells. Resto Rick turned me on to it. It's environmentally safe and non-toxic.
How many times you keep brushing it on depends on how much rust is left after sanding, but that stuff will eventually get all the rust off and the rust it doesn't get off, gets neutralized and is ready for primer.
Keep the surface wet with the stuff and keep brushing it on every few minutes. Do smaller areas at a time if you don't have time or patience to do it all at once. Just wipe it dry when you're done. Not as fast as media blasting, but a whole lot cheaper and it works.
I've used that stuff a lot and it works better than any other bottle-type chemical I've tried for surface rust. And there's no prep like POR-15's rust remover. It's an awesome one-step metal prep. It gets down into the pores of the metal and kills/neutralizes the rust, but if you keep applying it, it will eventually turn the rusty metal into a clean bare metal surface. Not as exactly clean as a media blasted surface, but the rust will be killed. You can hit it with a scotch brite to work in if you want.
I've had pieces setting in primer for several years after applying it and no problems.
It etches the metal so do not prime with a self etching primer, use an epoxy primer. Before you prime it, hit the surface with 80 grit again and wipe clean with degreaser just to be sure you have plenty of tooth in the metal for the primer.
It may seem expensive, but one of the small bottles goes a very long way. Easily enough to do your roof and you'll have some left over.
I've tried the Ace Harware version of it, called Must for Rust. It works okay, but takes several times longer than Picklex 20 and never does achieve the same results.
I did get a free bottle of Eastwood's Fast Etch. It appears somewhat similar to Picklex, but requires you to cover the surface in rags. That sucks. And it actually eats away at the integrity of the metal if kept on too long. Picklex doesn't do that.
I sound like a salesman, but I'm not. I've just had good experience with it.
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Re: Chemical rust removal on roof skin?
[Re: Slim Smitty]
#514091
11/04/09 12:16 PM
11/04/09 12:16 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,365 So Cal
GoManGo70Bee
super street
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super street
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,365
So Cal
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Quote:
Sand it with 80 grit to get the heavy stuff off, wipe the junk off the surface, then apply Picklex 20 several times with a brush. Picklex is a one-step metal prep that works really well. Not near the hassle of jells. Resto Rick turned me on to it. It's environmentally safe and non-toxic.
How many times you keep brushing it on depends on how much rust is left after sanding, but that stuff will eventually get all the rust off and the rust it doesn't get off, gets neutralized and is ready for primer.
Keep the surface wet with the stuff and keep brushing it on every few minutes. Do smaller areas at a time if you don't have time or patience to do it all at once. Just wipe it dry when you're done. Not as fast as media blasting, but a whole lot cheaper and it works.
I've used that stuff a lot and it works better than any other bottle-type chemical I've tried for surface rust. And there's no prep like POR-15's rust remover. It's an awesome one-step metal prep. It gets down into the pores of the metal and kills/neutralizes the rust, but if you keep applying it, it will eventually turn the rusty metal into a clean bare metal surface. Not as exactly clean as a media blasted surface, but the rust will be killed. You can hit it with a scotch brite to work in if you want.
I've had pieces setting in primer for several years after applying it and no problems.
It etches the metal so do not prime with a self etching primer, use an epoxy primer. Before you prime it, hit the surface with 80 grit again and wipe clean with degreaser just to be sure you have plenty of tooth in the metal for the primer.
It may seem expensive, but one of the small bottles goes a very long way. Easily enough to do your roof and you'll have some left over.
I've tried the Ace Harware version of it, called Must for Rust. It works okay, but takes several times longer than Picklex 20 and never does achieve the same results.
I did get a free bottle of Eastwood's Fast Etch. It appears somewhat similar to Picklex, but requires you to cover the surface in rags. That sucks. And it actually eats away at the integrity of the metal if kept on too long. Picklex doesn't do that.
I sound like a salesman, but I'm not. I've just had good experience with it.
Pretty much the same story for me with Picklex. Love the stuff!!!
70 Superbee 383 4 speed
70 Hurst 300
67 Dart sedan
74 Ramcharger
03 Hemi Ram 1500 4X4
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Re: Chemical rust removal on roof skin?
[Re: Seth_Jones]
#514095
11/06/09 12:49 PM
11/06/09 12:49 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503 Sooner state
Slim Smitty
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503
Sooner state
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Sounds good. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. If there is a lot of surface rust, it will take multiple brushings of Picklex and maybe some sanding during the process to help remove the surface rust.
If the goal is to remove as much surface rust as possible and then neutralize any remaining surface rust, then Picklex will work.
Even if the surface doesn't become spotless, the remaining brown/black stuff left on the surface is neutralized. I've found that real old surface rust doesn't always clean up to like new. It will always be stained. But the goal is remove/neutralize and get ready for the next prep steps.
If you have pitting in the metal, and depending how deep it is, you'll need to apply some good quality filler over the freshly sanded and cleaned picklex surface and prime with epoxy primer. If pitting is light, you can spray the epoxy primer on heavily in the pitted areas and sand from there.
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65 Coronet
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Re: Chemical rust removal on roof skin?
[Re: Seth_Jones]
#514097
11/06/09 05:08 PM
11/06/09 05:08 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503 Sooner state
Slim Smitty
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 503
Sooner state
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Hard to tell exactly without seeing it in person. But sanding and several applications of Picklex will remove and neutralize the rust.
The final surface will likely be a mix of brown and black, but you should be able to rid of a lot of the rust and what's left will be neutralized, based on what I've seen Picklex do and what the maker of Picklex says it does.
I would hand sand during some of the applications to see if you can release as much of the surface rust as possible, then do any filler work (if deeply pitted) and then prime. If pitting is light, apply heavy coats of filler and sand.
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65 Coronet
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