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Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Chassisman] #513907
11/02/09 03:02 PM
11/02/09 03:02 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer Offline
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Bob_Coomer  Offline
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Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Tell them to move the ladder front mount cross member up now before its too late.
At this point it will be much easier to accomplish this then after its all together.
The rest of the car looks good.


[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Chassisman] #513908
11/02/09 03:23 PM
11/02/09 03:23 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Chassisman Offline
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Chassisman  Offline
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Chowchilla,ca
At this point your throwing good money after bad...bite the bullet and get a COMPLETE 4-link set up.Maybe I need to retire to Vegas and open up shop again.....

This is how it SHOULD look http://www.cachassisworks.com/Stories/HowCAC-001_WEB.pdf

http://www.cachassisworks.com/Stories/CAC_GEN_CHP_2007-09.pdf

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: moparmanjames] #513909
11/02/09 03:33 PM
11/02/09 03:33 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,127
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Bend,OR USA
Quote:

"the ladder bar needs to be level to the ground now and adjustment holes up and down for tuning."


Yeah that's what I thought too, so seeing as how the car is so low, how would you fix it? I think the axle brackets have to be re-welded and moved inboard and different front brackets made.



It is good that you know that they do roundy rounders well, maybe they will be willing to learn how to do a drag race ladder bar rear suspension correctly on your car As already said on the lower bar and front mounts, they are all valid points A good ladder bar(quality and installation) set up properly will hook up in a mud bog in the middle of a rain storm Mine does I have owned and race four ladder bar rear suspension Dusters, one of them was not set up correctly, one mounting point for the front and the lower bar was not parrelel to the ground at ride hieght, it was a pig on the 60 ft. times, the car didn't spin the tire and the chassis didn't move when I hit the throttle . The fix was removing the complete rear suspension and staring over


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Cab_Burge] #513910
11/02/09 04:29 PM
11/02/09 04:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,260
Las Vegas NV
moparmanjames Offline OP
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moparmanjames  Offline OP
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Posts: 1,260
Las Vegas NV
Quote:

Quote:

"the ladder bar needs to be level to the ground now and adjustment holes up and down for tuning."


Yeah that's what I thought too, so seeing as how the car is so low, how would you fix it? I think the axle brackets have to be re-welded and moved inboard and different front brackets made.



It is good that you know that they do roundy rounders well, maybe they will be willing to learn how to do a drag race ladder bar rear suspension correctly on your car As already said on the lower bar and front mounts, they are all valid points A good ladder bar(quality and installation) set up properly will hook up in a mud bog in the middle of a rain storm Mine does I have owned and race four ladder bar rear suspension Dusters, one of them was not set up correctly, one mounting point for the front and the lower bar was not parrelel to the ground at ride hieght, it was a pig on the 60 ft. times, the car didn't spin the tire and the chassis didn't move when I hit the throttle . The fix was removing the complete rear suspension and staring over




I just got off the phone with the owner and we are going to order a 4 link for it and get it straightened out.

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: moparmanjames] #513911
11/02/09 09:15 PM
11/02/09 09:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 286
So. IL. USA
PLUM BAD Offline
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PLUM BAD  Offline
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Posts: 286
So. IL. USA
4-link sounds like a good idea. Since you're having the work done at a roundy round shop, make sure they're using the right size wall thickess tubing for the cage. Most dirt car shops use .095 wall which is to thin to pass tech.

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: PLUM BAD] #513912
11/02/09 09:19 PM
11/02/09 09:19 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,646
Plymouth Meeting, PA
bigtimeauto Offline
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Plymouth Meeting, PA
What is your goal? if its 25.5 you need to buy a SFI book so you can do it right.


BB, TT5,Procharged 3300lb Street Car 4.79/154
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: moparmanjames] #513913
11/06/09 09:19 PM
11/06/09 09:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 58
Oak Lawn IL.
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kosdart1 Offline
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Posts: 58
Oak Lawn IL.
If it were me Id raise the top frame rails up even with the rocker bar,,

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: kosdart1] #513914
11/07/09 12:16 AM
11/07/09 12:16 AM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 189
long island new york
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kingdust Offline
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Posts: 189
long island new york
if they can't install ladder bars the correct way, why would you want them to put in a 4 link! seems like they were going to finish the car and take your money if you did not say anything. i would seriously think about pulling it out of there and going to a shop that does drag cars only. im not bashing the shop, im sure they do nice work on circle track cars, but the drag cars are different. good luck


LIFE IS A LESSON,YOU LEARN IT WHEN YOUR THROUGH!
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: kingdust] #513915
11/07/09 01:17 AM
11/07/09 01:17 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 62
Glendale AZ
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Comp Chassis 2 Offline
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Posts: 62
Glendale AZ
Problem is that's a chassisworks rear frame kit designed for a much higher frame to ground distance. ladderbar brackets are under the rails,and if rails are say 5inches of the ground then pivot point is going to be 3&half or less. they can be fixed by relocating a new set of brackets onto the crossmember,and new brackets on housing for about 200.00 total verses the cost of a 4-link. Plus if the shop thought that geometry was going to work I would not want them installing a 4-link. Not to mention that the kick up in the rails is going to be to far forward for the 4-link plates. So your talking more involved fab work thats going to look like an afterthought at best .IMO move the brackets inward till they are level with ground with one hole left up as well as down

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Comp Chassis 2] #513916
11/07/09 01:30 AM
11/07/09 01:30 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 62
Glendale AZ
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Comp Chassis 2 Offline
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Glendale AZ
PS. you could also possibly move the ladderbars outside the rails if there is enough room to the tires wich would actually work better if possible. A wider track is more stable . And the brackets would end up on a straight lenght of crossmember instead of in the drop. Have run into this problem before with this same frame clip, bad design on chassisworks part. works on a high riding backhalf car but not on a full chassis car. but they sell it as part of package that they say can be upgraded to a complete chassis kit.

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Comp Chassis 2] #513917
11/07/09 02:09 AM
11/07/09 02:09 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Chassisman Offline
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Chowchilla,ca
He already ordered a 4 link further up in the post.....

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Chassisman] #513918
11/07/09 02:23 AM
11/07/09 02:23 AM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 62
Glendale AZ
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Comp Chassis 2 Offline
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Glendale AZ
Where is he going to attach the front plates on those rails? Complete redo of the rear clip, including the cage bars that are already installed as well as basically a new housing since any good 4-link kits are going to have 360 degree brackets. A waste of money and time in my opinion but i guess thats up to them to decide. not knocking anyone just hate to see a project go from bad to worse.

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Comp Chassis 2] #513919
11/07/09 11:28 AM
11/07/09 11:28 AM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,550
Michigan
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Kiddart Offline
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Michigan
this is a cool blog just learned a bunch. so i have a question if you have a small tire car you can run the ladder bar further out to the tires like in the original leafsppring location and this is good?? I would assum the reason for most kits being so close in is do to tire size and new frame rails?? another great blog thanks guys

5591226-DSC10.JPG (72 downloads)

Thank you
Kiddart
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Comp Chassis 2] #513920
11/07/09 03:48 PM
11/07/09 03:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Chassisman Offline
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Chassisman  Offline
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Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Quote:

Where is he going to attach the front plates on those rails? Complete redo of the rear clip, including the cage bars that are already installed as well as basically a new housing since any good 4-link kits are going to have 360 degree brackets. A waste of money and time in my opinion but i guess thats up to them to decide. not knocking anyone just hate to see a project go from bad to worse.


A set of Chassisworks Elm II rails will work with what he has...but the car will have a 4.5-5.5 ride height in the back...not bad for what he's working with now. And with the Elm II it would use the same crossmember(Elm II has a higher kick rail)...So he's hopefully going Elm II or going round tube and going to pull out the 3x2 and add bars to make the Avenger style 4-link.
Elm II http://www.cachassisworks.com/Stories/HowCAC-004_WEB.pdf

This would work better for him... http://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx...4LNK58?COMP=CAC

Hers a pic from a million years ago...1998...lol


And heres what it is today...

Last edited by Chassisman; 11/07/09 03:56 PM.
Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: Chassisman] #513921
11/07/09 04:16 PM
11/07/09 04:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,418
Mcallen, TX
SB449VALIANT Offline
pro stock
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Posts: 1,418
Mcallen, TX
Chassisman.... How much green papper is needed these days to get to build a cm chassis from alston, for a 65 valiant, plus the welding job.Something like this, at these level/stage...thanks...

Re: Ladder Bar Question [Re: SB449VALIANT] #513922
11/07/09 05:39 PM
11/07/09 05:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Chassisman Offline
master
Chassisman  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,749
Chowchilla,ca
Quote:

Chassisman.... How much green papper is needed these days to get to build a cm chassis from alston, for a 65 valiant, plus the welding job.Something like this, at these level/stage...thanks...


Labor to get it a roller like in that pic was around 7k...parts/materials around 12-15k(depending on quality)...so around 19k total....then tin work is 7-10k... BUT I'm not in that business anymore....so who knows what the going rate is...

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