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Get the Car to 60 foot harder, you already make enough horsepower to run in the 12's.

My car runs 12.40-.50 at the same 105 MPH. But my car 60 foots in the high 1.6 range.

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My car only runs 107 mph but has gone 12.35 with a 1.69 60ft. You need a sticky tire first. Eliminate any wheelspin and then see where you are at. If the launch is still soft, you may need more converter, but your cam is pretty mild, ought to have pretty good low end. I don't know about those shorty headers, a full length set would probably perform better. opening the headers would probably pick up a couple mph if you only have a 2.5 in exhaust. I bet more cam and converter would make your car really fly. Sounds like it runs pretty good for such a mild combo. Get some tires first, then play with what you have for awhile.

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Get the Car to 60 foot harder, you already make enough horsepower to run in the 12's.

My car runs 12.40-.50 at the same 105 MPH. But my car 60 foots in the high 1.6 range.

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your car is not 3900 pounds, so no he's not making enough hp to run 12s. he's making good hp for what he has and I agree he needs to work on the 60' which isn't bad for what he has either. more converter,better tire,maybe a gear change would probably help. also a better carb/intake may help.

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your car is not 3900 pounds, so no he's not making enough hp to run 12s. he's making good hp for what he has and I agree he needs to work on the 60' which isn't bad for what he has either. more converter,better tire,maybe a gear change would probably help. also a better carb/intake may help.

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That's wrong, Tony.........105 IS enough speed to go 12's at ANY weight...........ALL he needs is traction and a converter swap and I guarantee it'll run at least 12.50's..........and with a converter swap and sticky tires, I bet it'll pick up 2MPH.......

I've had LOTS of 3,900 to 4,000LB cars run mid 12's in the 105MPH range even with 3.55 gears..........

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your car is not 3900 pounds, so no he's not making enough hp to run 12s. he's making good hp for what he has and I agree he needs to work on the 60' which isn't bad for what he has either. more converter,better tire,maybe a gear change would probably help. also a better carb/intake may help.

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That's wrong, Tony.........105 IS enough speed to go 12's at ANY weight...........ALL he needs is traction and a converter swap and I guarantee it'll run at least 12.50's..........and with a converter swap and sticky tires, I bet it'll pick up 2MPH.......

I've had LOTS of 3,900 to 4,000LB cars run mid 12's in the 105MPH range even with 3.55 gears..........

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your car is not 3900 pounds, so no he's not making enough hp to run 12s. he's making good hp for what he has and I agree he needs to work on the 60' which isn't bad for what he has either. more converter,better tire,maybe a gear change would probably help. also a better carb/intake may help.

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That's wrong, Tony.........105 IS enough speed to go 12's at ANY weight...........ALL he needs is traction and a converter swap and I guarantee it'll run at least 12.50's..........and with a converter swap and sticky tires, I bet it'll pick up 2MPH.......

I've had LOTS of 3,900 to 4,000LB cars run mid 12's in the 105MPH range even with 3.55 gears..........

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stock 440 aluminum heads


Maybe this is it and i should accept it, but any pointers would be great.

Mike

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stock 440 aluminum heads


Maybe this is it and i should accept it, but any pointers would be great.

Mike

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Mike,
give us the 411 on the 440 aluminum heads.
Are they MP452's? What kind of stock head?

With 10 to 1, I would go bigger cam, bigger carb,
more converter. Get the most out of the aluminum
heads.

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Would a turn on the chassis dyno help as well?

Mike

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Big Squeeze

What I would like is to get a decent street thumper that can hang with some of the other guys in my car group. Most of these guys have street tuned imports that are well in the 12' and I would like to be at least respectable, while retaining driveablility.

Mike

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Big Squeeze

What I would like is to get a decent street thumper that can hang with some of the other guys in my car group. Most of these guys have street tuned imports that are well in the 12' and I would like to be at least respectable, while retaining driveablility.

Mike

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How quick is "respectable" in your book and what kind of tire do you plan on racing on???

Like mentioned, slicks and converter swap and you'll run mid 12's........

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This would be very respectable, but will my 8 3/4 survive? (looks at Quicktree)

mike

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your car is not 3900 pounds, so no he's not making enough hp to run 12s. he's making good hp for what he has and I agree he needs to work on the 60' which isn't bad for what he has either. more converter,better tire,maybe a gear change would probably help. also a better carb/intake may help.

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That's wrong, Tony.........105 IS enough speed to go 12's at ANY weight...........ALL he needs is traction and a converter swap and I guarantee it'll run at least 12.50's..........and with a converter swap and sticky tires, I bet it'll pick up 2MPH.......

I've had LOTS of 3,900 to 4,000LB cars run mid 12's in the 105MPH range even with 3.55 gears..........

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At 105mph it's got mid 12's in it.

As much as people don't like to pay for them, a looser converter is going to help a bunch.

Get the 60' down and the ET will follow. Sticky tires, pinion angle, spring clamps, front suspension work, etc.

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I don't think it's going to be as easy (or cheap)as some of you think to go from 13.60s to mid 12s. problem areas are going to be tire, converter. traction and a little more power. and to answer your question about the 83/4, heavy car with decent power and traction could lead to disaster for it. take all the precautions with it. it all depends on how much money you want to spend to reach your goal. If it were me I would get the heads ported, different carb and intake, headers, slicks maybe a 10.5, 8" race converter. that would be a good start, and maybe a cam swap

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DON'T BELIEVE THE NAYSAYERS!!!........It IS that easy.......and you don't need an 8" converter.........just a 4,000 9.5 or 10" (about $550 for a new one with shipping or you could look around here for a good used one for about half that) and a set of used 28X9 slicks and you're there.........and that's a LOT cheaper than buying and installing camshafts, installing different headers, having the heads ported, different carb, different intake and a $1,000 8" converter............With all those changes, it'd run low 11's and cost you at least 4K.......

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I don't think it's going to be as easy (or cheap)as some of you think to go from 13.60s to mid 12s. problem areas are going to be tire, converter. traction and a little more power. and to answer your question about the 83/4, heavy car with decent power and traction could lead to disaster for it. take all the precautions with it. it all depends on how much money you want to spend to reach your goal. If it were me I would get the heads ported, different carb and intake, headers, slicks maybe a 10.5, 8" race converter. that would be a good start, and maybe a cam swap

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I get the impression this was the 1st time out with this car, which leads me to believe some tuning and seat time could net considerable gains. Again, 105 mph is easily low 13/ high 12 horsepower.

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I don't think it's going to be as easy (or cheap)as some of you think to go from 13.60s to mid 12s. problem areas are going to be tire, converter. traction and a little more power. and to answer your question about the 83/4, heavy car with decent power and traction could lead to disaster for it. take all the precautions with it. it all depends on how much money you want to spend to reach your goal. If it were me I would get the heads ported, different carb and intake, headers, slicks maybe a 10.5, 8" race converter. that would be a good start, and maybe a cam swap

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DON'T BELIEVE THE NAYSAYERS!!!........It IS that easy.......and you don't need an 8" converter.........just a 4,000 9.5 or 10" (about $550 for a new one with shipping or you could look around here for a good used one for about half that) and a set of used 28X9 slicks and you're there.........and that's a LOT cheaper than buying and installing camshafts, installing different headers, having the heads ported, different carb, different intake and a $1,000 8" converter............With all those changes, it'd run low 11's and cost you at least 4K.......

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I learned a long time ago to go overkill when looking for ET. it saves you disappointment

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I don't think it's going to be as easy (or cheap)as some of you think to go from 13.60s to mid 12s. problem areas are going to be tire, converter. traction and a little more power. and to answer your question about the 83/4, heavy car with decent power and traction could lead to disaster for it. take all the precautions with it. it all depends on how much money you want to spend to reach your goal. If it were me I would get the heads ported, different carb and intake, headers, slicks maybe a 10.5, 8" race converter. that would be a good start, and maybe a cam swap

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DON'T BELIEVE THE NAYSAYERS!!!........It IS that easy.......and you don't need an 8" converter.........just a 4,000 9.5 or 10" (about $550 for a new one with shipping or you could look around here for a good used one for about half that) and a set of used 28X9 slicks and you're there.........and that's a LOT cheaper than buying and installing camshafts, installing different headers, having the heads ported, different carb, different intake and a $1,000 8" converter............With all those changes, it'd run low 11's and cost you at least 4K.......

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if you can get him running 12.50s with a $550 converter and a pair of slicks and guarantee it. I would have to advise him to take you up on it. I think it will take around 108mph and a few other chenges to gain over 1.1 seconds.

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if you can get him running 12.50s with a $550 converter and a pair of slicks and guarantee it. I would have to advise him to take you up on it. I think it will take around 108mph and a few other chenges to gain over 1.1 seconds.

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Put up 4K and I'll prove it.......I'll call PTC and have them send the converter to my house, I'll drive up there with my 28X9 slicks and tranny jack and swap converters in his driveway and then take it to test and tune.......(if the drag strip is still open this time of year in Wisconsin???) Heck, for 5K, I'll go to Wisconsin, bring the car back here, do the deed, and bring it back to him.......

ANY takers??? anyone want to make a quick 4 or 5K???????

I'll also say that with the converter swap and adding slicks, it'll pick up 2MPH, which would put it at 107 and the car may run as good as 12.30's.........

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Always wanted to ask what type of 1/4 ET i would get from running 89MPH in the 1/8th if I got traction? Never could get traction at all and usually ran 8.40's but trapped at 89mph very consistenly on all 4 runs in the cuda.

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if you can get him running 12.50s with a $550 converter and a pair of slicks and guarantee it. I would have to advise him to take you up on it. I think it will take around 108mph and a few other chenges to gain over 1.1 seconds.

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Put up 4K and I'll prove it.......I'll call PTC and have them send the converter to my house, I'll drive up there with my 28X9 slicks and tranny jack and swap converters in his driveway and then take it to test and tune.......(if the drag strip is still open this time of year in Wisconsin???) Heck, for 5K, I'll go to Wisconsin, bring the car back here, do the deed, make my 5K, and bring it back to him.......

ANY takers??? anyone want to make a quick 4 or 5K???????

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Always wanted to ask what type of 1/4 ET i would get from running 89MPH in the 1/8th if I got traction? Never could get traction at all and usually ran 8.40's but trapped at 89mph very consistenly on all 4 runs in the cuda.

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89MPH in the 1/8 is 7.60's in the 1/8, which is 12.0's - 12teens @ 109 in the 1/4...........

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Personally I'm all for this idea! Yet seriously a couple things are given. It looks like slicks and converter change are a minimum.

I got the slicks covered.
Now what size converter should I go with?

Mike

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like I said if you guarantee it, he needs to take you up on the offer it would eb the best money he ever spent. If I had had 4k I would probably take you up on the bet. but since I don't I would like to see him spend the $550 and run the mid 12.50s. I would be first in line to give you a big congrats.

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Heck, I know you're a BIG BALLER, just borrow the money from the bank for 30 days.......You'll DOUBLE your money.........and there can be as many Moparts members around as you want to verify that I don't touch anything else.......

It'll be the easiest 4 or 5K you've ever made.......

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like I said if you guarantee it, he needs to take you up on the offer it would eb the best money he ever spent. If I had had 4k I would probably take you up on the bet. but since I don't I would like to see him spend the $550 and run the mid 12.50s. I would be first in line to give you a big congrats.

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Heck, I know you're a BIG BALLER, just borrow the money from the bank for 30 days.......You'll DOUBLE your money.........and there can be as many Moparts members around as you want to verify that I don't touch anything else.......

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Personally I'm all for this idea! Yet seriously a couple things are given. It looks like slicks and converter change are a minimum.

I got the slicks covered.
Now what size converter should I go with?

Mike

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Like mentioned, I'd go with a 9.5 or 10" that stalls at least 3,800.........I've had great luck with PTC 256-383-6868......... Tell them you want it to stall at LEAST 3,800RPM (personaly, I'd get something that stalls around 4,500).......

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just help the man out, I would love to see him run 12.50

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I'm trying to help you out too by making you 5K richer......

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Probably not. I'm learning as I go. I've got timing set at 34 degrees (pings at 36) and went up one jet size on the carb, but that is about it. I haven't done any other wild voodoo things to it yet.

I was afriad that the top end change might be in order. ( suggestions would be nice for each)
Would uncorking my headers and fattening up the carb do anything?

Ny the way I went with a streetwize build and it was very helpful to set this car up.

Mike

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.

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I think you've nailed it. I would not touch a thing.

Unless he stopped for take-out mid track, his numbers don't make sense. I believe that is why there is the debate over the converter and 60' time and what the result would be.

With a 1.9 60', and 105 trap speed, that should be a 13.0 to 13.1, not a 13.68. Either one of his three numbers is wrong, or something happened mid track

He needs more track time, and after that, he needs to start tuning.

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.Then make changes as required to better the et,starting with gear ratio,tires and easy bolt on parts.You will always have the base line to tell you if the changes worked or not.

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the gear itself is a torque multiplier but
you HAVE to put it to the ground

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.

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I think you've nailed it. I would not touch a thing.

Unless he stopped for take-out mid track, his numbers don't make sense. I believe that is why there is the debate over the converter and 60' time and what the result would be.

With a 1.9 60', and 105 trap speed, that should be a 13.0 to 13.1, not a 13.68. Either one of his three numbers is wrong, or something happened mid track

He needs more track time, and after that, he needs to start tuning.

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.

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I think you've nailed it. I would not touch a thing.

Unless he stopped for take-out mid track, his numbers don't make sense. I believe that is why there is the debate over the converter and 60' time and what the result would be.

With a 1.9 60', and 105 trap speed, that should be a 13.0 to 13.1, not a 13.68. Either one of his three numbers is wrong, or something happened mid track

He needs more track time, and after that, he needs to start tuning.

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I'm very certain of this factas well. I've had very minimal seat time at the track. I know once the newness wears off I'll be good to go
Sadly I threw out the time slip. I know 1320 time and trap speed were such, and I might be remember the 0 to 60 foot wrong, but I'm almost certain it was around 1.9, if not it was close, not off by more then a couple tenths .1 + or -

Mike

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A couple tenths in the 60ft. would change everything.

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.Then make changes as required to better the et,starting with gear ratio,tires and easy bolt on parts.You will always have the base line to tell you if the changes worked or not.

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the gear itself is a torque multiplier but
you HAVE to put it to the ground

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You guys are over-rocketeering this.......and I'm still holding my breath on anyone to take me up on my bet........I'm trying to stimulate the economy......... Somebody WILL have a few K to spend on their hot rod.........

I'll even put a 2.91 Sure Grip in the car and I'll still bet it'll go mid 12's with JUST a converter swap and slicks.........

Any takers??? According to all the experts, the odds are way better than going to the Casino..........

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I wouldn't do anything till I had alot more race time and honed my driving techniques and established a base line et.Then make changes as required to better the et,starting with gear ratio,tires and easy bolt on parts.You will always have the base line to tell you if the changes worked or not.

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the gear itself is a torque multiplier but
you HAVE to put it to the ground

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You guys are over-rocketeering this.......and I'm still holding my breath on anyone to take me up on my bet........I'm trying to stimulate the economy......... Somebody WILL have a few K to spend on their hot rod.........

I'll even put a 2.91 Sure Grip in the car and I'll still bet it'll go mid 12's with JUST a converter swap and slicks.........

Any takers??? According to all the experts, the odds are way better than going to the Casino..........

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You put 2.91,s in and I will take that bet that it wont do mid 12,s

But as is, it Does have the MPH for mid 12,s it just needs a better hook and more vert

As many have stated

I agree with Mike and Bob above that I would run the combo as is to get some better baseline runs out of it. Theres nothing wrong with that With more runs ,he may break into the high 12,s anyways.

But no doubt IMO, that MPH shows that his ride is good for a mid 12. mike

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You put 2.91,s in and I will take that bet that it wont do mid 12,s

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OK.......It's a BET.......

Is the starter of the thread, Mike, willing?

Do we have anyone that'll hold the money while this takes place? How about Mr. P Body or Bob George?

Can we get a Moparts member to loan us a 2.91 Sure-grip chunk???

If his local track is open, for 4K, I'll drive up there on a Thursday with the converter and my tranny jack and do the swaps in his driveway on Friday, then we'll go to TNT either Friday night or Saturday.........

If his local track is closed, for a 5K bet, I'll go up there, get the car, bring it back, swap converters, gears, and install slicks......and he can race it.........then I'll swap gears back and haul it back up to Wisconsin.......

If he doesn't mind, I'd prefer to drive, but I'm sure I can walk him through how to get the most out of it.......

Step up with the cash........ This is gonna be FUN.......

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dang I was hoping to see that majic trick really I would have loved tosee the results. Wayne how much nos were you plan on running?

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Nothing magic about it.......As long as the motor isn't running out of fuel or missing, it'll be fine, as-is........

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I do have a couple questions. What will running a loose converter do for driveability on the street. Lets say I do go with a 3800 loose converter. Won't I have huge overheating issues on the street with it?

Mike

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Mike. with todays Tight converters you could have a 4500+ stall vert and not know it driving around town.
My 4200 stall Dynamic drives and feels like a Stock Vert, That 4200 stall doesnt come into play untill, you put the hammer down.

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I do have a couple questions. What will running a loose converter do for driveability on the street. Lets say I do go with a 3800 loose converter. Won't I have huge overheating issues on the street with it?

Mike

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Mike. with todays Tight converters you could have a 4500+ stall vert and not know it driving around town.
My 4200 stall Dynamic drives and feels like a Stock Vert, That 4200 stall doesnt come into play untill, you put the hammer down.

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EXACTLY.........Don't sweat it.......If you're worried about it, just put the biggest tranny cooler you can find in front of the radiator........