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Does the tech archive have the post about gutting the old repo, and installing a smaller batt into the shell?

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I got 6 years 8 months out of my lead acid resto battery and it was still going (although it started dying if I didn't use the car for a week..thats why I did this....)

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how is that odyssey battery held in place, i am going to try it this weekend, i have 3 batteries to do.

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The battery is held in there by the plexiglas on the bottom & I have since stuffed styrofoam on the sides to prevent the side to side movement.

Basically, to gut the battery you need a large metal pail, baking soda, fresh water, long heavy rubber gloves, face shield, eye protection etc....

Small disclaimer....

YOU ARE DEALING WITH HIGHLY CORROSIVE BATTERY ACID
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS

I drilled holes at the bottom of the case to drain as much of the acid as possible. I work in a bus maintenance facility that has provisions for acid battery flushing & washing so this step was easy for me.

After throughly neutralizing the battery as much as possible (the glass matting will still hold acid) I figured I would try to cut a square out of the bottom of the case & all the guts would fall out....NOT!
The case is molded with plastic separators built into it to separate each cell.
I have heard others cutting the top of the battery off but I wanted to hide this battery as best as possible & I didn't want any potentially visible seams.
Secondly, the case is VERY thick plastic on the bottom & fairly thin on the sides. You have to be careful not to crack the side of the case when you are breaking out the plastic separators molded inside.
I used a whizz wheel for this along with a good dust mask because you WILL be black when you finish cutting the bottom out cell by cell.

Starting at one side of the case, after the bottom of the cell is cut out, each glass mat is separated by a lead plate which is attached to lead lugs at the top of the battery. There are aprox 6 lead plates & mats per cell. These have to be wiggled & broken off the lugs to remove. AGAIN WEAR HEAVY NEOPRENE ACID RESISTANT GLOVES!!

After removing all the plates & mats in one cell, break out the plastic separators, cut out the bottom of the next cell & move on till they are all out.
Wash out the case & then proceed to take out all the lead plate retaining lugs except for the 2 that the posts connect to. You have to take the others out to fit the new battery in the case. I used a Dremel tool with a small cut off wheel to cut through the lead.

Lastly drill out a hole in each post lug & make up some short battery cables to connect the new battery to.

Sorry I don't have any pics of the messy gutting procedure but here is a pic of the case that shows what I mean by the molded in separators & the lugs as well as the small battery cables I made ...

Hopefully this helps

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i need 3 maintenence free mopar batteries, 1 group 24 with yellow tops and 2 group 27 red tops.
does anyone know if they have gotten any better or do they still stink, i cant keep buying these things.
i just bought a Napa battery for a 1/3 of the price 1125 CCAMPS at 32 degrees.

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I have had my Group 27 battery for 4 years now with now problems.

You have asked about this before, is there still a problem???