The knowledge here never ceases to amaze me...

73 charger. 318, wieand action plus intake, box stock 600 holley, 2 1/4" duals, a833 4-spd. OD tranny, 2.94 geared 8 3/4 with sure-grip. have drivin the car everywhere,back and forth to monster mopar weekend at st.louis,(3 hours away) gets 25-27 on the road. cruising at 70-75mph tachs 1900-2000rpm. gets 21-22 around town.

Found it !

Thinking about pumping losses.
Anybody investigate a controlled vacuum pump to operate only under high vacuum conditions?

I had thought about running two hollow PCV valves directly to manifold vaccume to keep the crank case under the same vacume as what would be above the piston. I figure the vacume would resist up ward movement of the piston during compression and exhaust strokes and not make a hill of beans differance but I never tried it.

It seems to be a design of PCV valve that holds more vacuum on the interior of the engine block,
but adjusts it depending on blowby gas amount.

Just like a dry sump oiling system
it might slightly improve MPG
by reducing windage drag of the moving parts.

The danger of running two conventional PCV valves is that you pull unfiltered outside air from somewhere where the engine is not sealed properly.

Anyone reading this have access to a "Spintron",
that can turn the rotating assembly of a V8 and measure the hp needed?

At typical highway cruise rpms in the 1500 to 2000 range, I wonder how much hp is consumed from internal windage? This could be measured on a Spintron by spinning the engine in normal air pressure, then redoing the test with a vacuum pulled on the block through both valve covers.

Certainly internal windage matters at high rpm:

http://circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0603_oil_pans_windage/index.html

A few things I have tried that didn't seem to make any differance in MPG.

I got a 72 340 4spd TQ on it and it is about the same, mabey a little more throttle responce but
Lossened up the valves to reduce over lap and increase vaccume. It made it more responsive and smoother idle and vacume went up but not a noticable differance in MPG.

I have tried monkeying around with metering rods jets timing curve ect and nothing seems to make any differance. I drove it accross the country this summer and it seems to like E-85 but not any differance in mpg.

Since the basic build no amount of tuneing and such has made a big differance. Any gains have been pretty small. Driving slower did not seem to make a differance, never have made 30mpg even doing 50 mph across the plains. Over 65 though it does start droping off. I think it is just turning to many RPM.

If the 318 in my 91 dakota would ever blow up I will put this motor in it along with a 5 spd and the tbi some 92 magnum ex manifolds and 3.23 gears.

A pic incase you havent seen one

Nice! New Charger/Magnum wheels? Did you just bolt 'em up, or are you running spacer/adapters for the bolt pattern?

On the mileage changes, you may need to try some additional hypermiling techniques to get any big changes. Many won't work as well on a carb car as EFI, since most if not all EFI cars now cut fuel entirely when closed-throttle coasting, and that can be a big mileage gain. As an example of the difference it (seems to) be able to make, my DD is a 2008 Honda Fit. Little 1.5L engine, 109hp, but all I do is go to work and back (4.5mi) 95% of the time. In town, I'm averaging a little over 30mpg, but the best I can get on the highway is 38.8mpg. The 50-mile trip down to my folk's place I got a ScanGage II indicated 38 mpg. On the trip back, using a pulse-n-glide (slow accel with throttle-off coast in gear, wash-rinse-repeat) between 55 and 65mph, I got an indicated 47mpg. I can't SWEAR if that really worked out to that mileage, as my wife had put 45 miles of in-town driving, but if she got in the ballpark of 27mpg while running to the mall and grocery store, the numbers do work out. That's a 27% increase in already good mileage on the trip down vs. the trip back. Cool!

Clair

With the early b-body rear the rear wheels %100 bolted on. The fronts I had to put the rotor (75 duster discs)in a brake lathe and machine the snout down at an angle to fit inside the wheel because of the wheel not being deep enough, I also still had to run a 7/32 spacer but the wheel is close enough to the hub to be hub centered. Hub centered is important on this swap because the bolt pattern is not %100 the same. It is something like .3 MM different

You can't really tell in the pic but the chargers center cap won't fit the front because the spindle sticks through it but the grease cap can be chromed and installed after the wheel is installed.

So Dave...Is there still a plan in place to jack the CR and go straight E-85? Or has the relocation to Montana changed all of that?

Unfortunately the only e-85 I can find in Mt. is several hours away and not available to the public. I might try bumping the comp a bit more with some milled RHS magnums or mopar aluminum magnums.

The only thing stopping me is the solid barbell lifters won't oil the rockers. I am considering drilling into the bar bell area through the seat but don't know how big of a hole I should drill.

Does Enginequest make a Mag/LA hybrid that allows the shaft mount rockers with a basically Magnum head design?

The only hybrid sort of deal they have is the 318B head and the only non-magnum part it takes is an LA intake.

I would be real scared to put new lifters on a 42 year old cam and some reason the solid lifters are even more expensive then hydraulic lifters.

I am curently porting a set of magnum heads and I will throw in an XE 268 while I am swapping the heads. I also have a set of 1.7 mopar roller rockers I may throw on there while I am at it.