For the air intake I purchased some polished aluminum tubing from Extreme PSI in Pennsylvania.
Purchased one 3.5” 90 deg elbow, one 3.5” x 18” straight pipe and two silicone couplers and 4 band clamps.
Then I purchased a 7” K&N cone filter from Summit.
Purchased a grommet with a 5/8” OD and ½” ID to install the Intake Air Temp sensor into the 90 deg. Elbow.
Still not completed, I am going to fabricate a box to for the air filter.

Forgot to post a pic of the oil pressure sender with adapters...

The different type of crank sensors...

and the squier CKP sensor connector compared to the 2007 and newer sensor...

Another item purchased from S&P was their EGR block-off plate and bolts.
My understanding is 6.1’s do not have EGR and figured I will not need the block-off plate. But I see a gaping hole on the right side head and figured be safe than sorry.
You just need to make your own gasket (which I added some copper RTV to) and bolts right on.

Brake booster hose attaches to the rear of the intake manifold.
On the left of the intake near the throttle body you will need a 3/8” vacuum cap to plug and unused EVAP port. It’s used for emission purposes, not ours. It can be used as a vacuum source if you need one.

The crankcase fresh air inlet on the left side of the intake will need a filter. I used a K&N crankcase breather pn# KNN-62-2480

Fuel system required an in-tank fuel pump. It is very important to have an in-tank pump. It lasts longer and remains submerged in fuel if mounted in a very well baffled fuel tank.
On a fuel injected motor where fuel needs to be constantly available, it is very important the fuel pump does not go “dry” on hard turns, acceleration or braking. The engine will immediately respond to any change in fuel volume by surging, stumbling or stalling.

Several different approaches.
Worst way: Install an external fuel pump on the frame rail. This means never letting the tank go below ½ tank and replacing the fuel pump every so often.
Budget: Purchase a Rock Valley in-tank pump kit and modify your existing fuel tank.
Expensive/Best: Purchase a fuel tank from either Rock Valley or Rick’s Rod Shop.

I purchased a complete custom stainless fuel tank from Rock Valley.
There were good and bad points from this purchase.
Good points: Delivered within schedule (5 weeks) of order.
They use Walbro in-tank pumps (quality pump)
Spiral trap design around fuel pump keeps pump wet at all times
Two additional baffles installed in tank to prevent fuel slosh.
Stainless tank straps provided

Bad points: They do not assemble and install fuel level sender in tank even if you purchase the sender from them .
Received the fuel tank dirty inside (I had to thoroughly wash the tank)
Fuel tank straps do not take in account tank is not recessed to conform with tank braces above.

Wiring the fuel pump is a matter of taking the hot lead from the Squier engine harness fuel pump relay and running it to the + side of the pump. The – is grounded to frame.
The fuel sender 73-10 ohm, is wired to the original fuel sender wire and grounded from a mounting screw.

Unlike some other fuel injected engines, the 3G Hemi uses a single fuel pressure line with no return line from the fuel rail.
What this means is we can use a GM fuel filter for ’99 up LS1 Corvette (pn# GF822).
This filter will allow us to run a pressure and return line direct to the filter. The filter has an internal pressure regulator which will supply a regulated fixed output line.
So in brief, two lines in and one line out to the engine. This filter simplifies the fuel system.
I installed my fuel tank, mounted the fuel filter in the shock tower brace with the outlet side facing the passenger side.
Then I used Russell quick-connect fuel fittings to attach Russell braided hoses from the tank to filter and filter to injector fuel rail on engine.
Russell makes nice anodized AN-6 fitting to couple 3/8” pressure (pn# 640860) and 5/16” return(pn# 640850) quick connect fittings.

To keep tabs on my fuel pressure, I installed a gauge right at the inlet of the fuel rail.

Well, I am still fine tuning and working some more bugs out.
As I learn more, I will gladly pass the info.

Up next, restore the factory a/c heater case with a new evaporator and plumbing the 6.1 a/c compressor to the car.
Then redo the complete dash assy, gauges and steering column.

I really hope this info. will help some people out and hopefully you can share your project and findings with us.

Gil

Could you please give an itemized list of parts and costs? Nice work and attention to detail!!!

WOW... this is a great post that needs to go in the tech archives!!!

You guys amaze me. I have enough trouble putting things back the way they came.

GREAT info.
please put post in tech after it finishes.
i will need this info when i do the same install on my 71 cuda when i am done paying child support in 1 1/2 years.

Good info.
Just a note: Depending on the original application, some of the pan gaskets have the additional bolt holes already in place.

Hey guy's, thanks for the nice words

Took me about 7 hours to accumulate all the info and modify the pics

Tom, I was planning on providing a detailed parts list with cost, just need some more time. I'll try during the week.

TrWaters, thanks for the info on the gaskets. I was worried about the differnece in 6.1 gasket to 5.7 so I kept the 6.1 on the 6.1

I think there are actually 4 or 5 different gaskets. They differ between car and truck, as well as steel or aluminum oil pan. Notice how this one for a GC with aluminum pan does not have the two smaller holes, but does have the 4 larger holes... which the factory aluminum pan uses.

Good info, I am currently putting a 5.7 Hemi from a 2006 Charger into a 71 Cuda.

Question - How did you get the oil filter pipe out of the block, any tips would be appreciated, mine is stuck in there real good or they are using left handed threads.

Comment - The front sump Charger block did not come with the support stud to mount the oil pickup, I purchased one from Mopar PN# 6506333-AA the nut was PN# 6502756. Since these Main Bearing Cap bolts are torque to yield the factory recommends not reusing them if you should ever need to remove them. I also found that the Weldtech Pan depended on the dip stick using the passage cast into the block where as on the Charger engine this hole was plugged and the cast aluminum original oil pan had a hole in it for the dip stick tube. I had to resort to unplugging the hole in the block, installing a dip stick tube from a truck hemi PN 53021322-AB(tube), PN 53021321-AC (indicator), PN 53021144 (O ring) and then bending it to secure it on the front of the driver side cylinder head since the original mounting scheme secured the top of the dip stick tube on the accessory mount for the truck hemi which is different from the accessory mount for the Charger hemi. Instead of purchasing an EGR valve block off plate I simply used a small diameter aluminum core plug to block the passage the hole is drilled to a diameter that readily accepts a standard size core plug. Also I believe the ECU that is sold by Mopar Performance is the same as the AEM unit.

Looks great. Cant wait to hear what you think of the performance and how well it works with a 727 and that conv.


Jerry