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Are you refering to the crappy fatman FMJ spindles? HUH !!!!

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If you have good experience with them, well you would be the first person I've heard of that did. They look good for a lightweight skinney tired street rod. I wouldn't trust them on my fat tired street car with speed bumps, potholes and the occasional canyon run
I don't have an issue with the taller FMJ spindles, I've seen enough testing and frankly here to come to my own conclusion about that.

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It would even work on FMJ cars, but it would be slightly shorter.

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They are 500, and have been out for years...

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Yes, we've all known about those for years, the problem is that they are a total rip off. For the most part, spindles are spindles. They are dimensionally different yes, but there is no reason that the spindles that Fatman sells should cost so much more than all the other spindles out there. Be they Mopar, MII, Chevey or whatever. The regular (non-drop) spindles that Magnum Force sells are a little over $300, good quality, and are manufactured right here in the good old USA. There are also plenty of other companies out there selling MII and Chevy drop spindles in the $229 range. If they can all make a nice profit at that price there's no reason someone couldn't do the same thing with with the 73' and up Chrysler units.

If someone had the money to invest, they could get these things made, sell them for a fair price, make a nice profit, and be a hero to the Mopar community all at the same time.

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Since we have had posting from AlterK, XV, and now Magnumforce here is my challenge to all of you;

The first one to produce a 2" drop, disc brake spindle for $200 a pair, I know of a dozen or two buyers who will pick up a set.

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We released the high-strength cast version of the 73-up AB&E Disc spindle about six months ago and 2" drop version is in development as we speak.

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Hey, hey, hey, you guys are going to be busy!!!

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Well, this thread has made me think we should see if we can't offer our Level II setup in a more economical configuration - to make it within reach of more people.

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Thanks,
John

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I'll take a K frame & upper arms & a sway bar, all the rest of the Zo6 stuff I can get cheap.

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bottom line is cost
if there is any way to lower that extra $5000 difference to be more cost effective with the RMS setup,
then I would choose the XV Level II in a heartbeat

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I totaled both RMS and XV Level II setups
I wanted for my application:

RMS:
ARC4000L LevelPro compressor system w/ aluminum tank $2,070.00
ABAR20700 Mopar 68-70 B Body & 70-74 E Body rear AirBar w/ dual adjustable Shockwave $2,265.00
AIRBAR Air Ride Shockwave double adjustable $798.00
16160 Tubular K-Member Conversion B and E-Body Power Steering $3,595.00
16160 complete 1.125" sway bar $249.00
WIL-140-7018 Superlite 6 Piston 13" Big Brake Front Kit $1,250.00
total= $10,227.00

XV Level II:
20-1201 XV E-Body Level II Suspension - Front $7,495.00
20-1221 XV E-Body Level II Suspension - Rear $3,395.00
25-1201 XV E-Body Level II Brakes - Front $2,895.00
total= $13,785.00

when I add up the parts total of the XV Level II it is roughly $3,558.00 more for my application

but what is not included is the amount for the extra welding of the XV Level II
I would guess it would cost maybe $1000 for the proper welding procedure?
if so it would only cost roughly $5000.00 more to have the XV Level II installed for my application

bottom line is cost
if there is any way to lower that extra $5000 difference to be more cost effective with the RMS setup,
then I would choose the XV Level II in a heartbeat

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bottom line is cost

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...I just went to your website and saw your build sheet for this car. They can't print money fast enough for all that stuff, so what's $5000 to get the very most handling out of it. You're planning on a dry sumped, EFI, aluminum Indy block 572 motor....

Get something wider than 235's for a car that's built to this level of capability. Like 275's. Also think about investing in a six point cage. They really tie everything together beyond frame connectors and even the XV stiffening. Especially on a car with a motor as capable at that.

I'd also suggest going out to a track day in your area that has some older cars and get a feel for things and ideas.

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your right, I don't need airbags to go faster
but it is the most expensive option in Alterkations setup which is still less than XV's most expensive setup

Why end with XV Level I when I know they have a Level II?

I agree about the QA1's which do cost less!

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I did not know you could fit 275 front tires in ebodys I thought 235 were the biggest?

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I am planning on a 10 point cage

I am not looking down on the RMS Alterkation
it is still on my list
just saying the price difference is at least $5000
between RMS and XV
who dosent want to save that money?

thanks

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Ok, back on track. I think you want to know if your extra money is being well spent?

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well said!

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Have you considered tubbing the back for more tire room. You're going to have more power than you can put down with that motor combo?

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Many times the last 5% takes the most money.

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i agree in my case the last 70%

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You could run a iron block 440 and a good designed wet sump and save a lot of that $5000 too.

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whats the fun in that?

look I am not arguing, I am agreeing with you
thanks

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This is to the folks at RMS and XV:

Have you considered offering aero effects for the older Mopars? Suspension is all about stability and aerodynamics affect stability a heck of a lot.

The 71-up B bodies and all E-bodies were pretty aerodynamic for their day, but the right ground effects would really help stabilize them at high speeds. As far as I know the only option I have as a 71 Satellite/RR owner is the original eyebrow spoilers, which seem to do very little. If a company offered good looking front and rear spoilers for my car, I'd buy them in a heartbeat. The same goes for rear window louvers.

And as a corrollary to the above, if anyone knows of good aero effects for these cars that are already being offered, please let me know.

- Jim

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From the 69 Car Life Spoiler Test article on a 69 Camaro, Javalin, and GTO the front end lifting is the biggest problem. All the cars then had a nose up front side profile. That traps air under the front and lifts the front. NOTE: this was real well ran test. Had well thought out cables to measure suspension travel. Pretty involved for it's day.

From the tests the sedan Camaro with it's notchback and flat trunk did well to not lift the rear. That car is like E-bodies and most 63-70 B-bodies. When they added the rear spoiler only the back had good downforce but in turn it pushed the nose up. They concluded the stock 69 Front spoiler only was the best deal.

But that 69 Camaro spoiler is not that big. Not like a 71 Charger or 69-70 Mustang type. I'd shoot for something those two cars had or bigger like the Trans Am cars had.

The Kammback and fastback profiled 69 Javelin and 69 GTO had rear end lift above 60 mph. And also front lift without a spoiler. The rear spoilers on those stunk and didn't do anything. Those two car are like 71-74 Ply B-bodies, 67-69 Barracuda Fastbacks, 66-67 Chargers and Duster/Demons.

I think a ducktail spoiler on those fastback type cars like the one Direct Connection sold once for Duster/Demons would help. Also 67 Charger had problems in Nascar with rear lift and they homogated a rear ducktail that came on the hemi cars.

Key thing about front spoilers is to make them out of ABS. Fiberglass ones crack and will always hit driveways and curbs.

This is the spoiler pictured below is modeled after one Dean Jefferies made and was used on the Ontario Speedway 70 Challenger Pace Car. It's like the race Trans Am ones. I think it's a lot more effective than a stock 69 Camaro front spoiler.

It's also huge PITA. Al's had this on his car for years. And had it repaired many times. And he babies it like none other. Not very fun to live with. Now if it were ABS that would change everything. The guy who did these fiberglass ones in the early 90's? made them for Challengers and 70 Chargers, IIRC.

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This 69 Camaro has gone 220 mph with just a small front spoiler and a ducktail spoiler for the rear.................. http://www.bigredcamaro.com/newsite/mainpage.html

I guess you don't need much to keep the front end down.

It would be interesting to see a purpose built XV race car compared to Big Red.

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I would guess it would cost maybe $1000 for the proper welding procedure?

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I called XV about the proper welding procedure
it is not any more complicated than welding in their subframe connectors and would not cost the extra money

just wanted to clarify my mistake...