Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: JeffsCustomPaint]
#470201
09/20/09 12:19 AM
09/20/09 12:19 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
personally I hate OE.......takes more effort .......
This is the real reason most people do not try and duplicate a factory vehicle. While some think that a wet sanded paint job is the cats meow, many others feel that the patina of a new, factory type restoration is tops. How many people in this hobby wouldn't want to go back in time and bring back a showroom vehicle to present day? I seriously doubt that ANYONE would rip it apart or repaint it to get rid of the "crappy" appearance that these cars exemplified when new. Does anybody else remember the new smell or feel of a late sixties or early seventies vehicle? (My parents NEW 1971 Buick Le Sabre when I was ten years old!)
What a pleasant, reminiscing thought!
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
#470202
09/20/09 08:40 AM
09/20/09 08:40 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908 Franklinville,NJ
JeffsCustomPaint
master
|
master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908
Franklinville,NJ
|
do me a favor if your gonna quote me don't delete half of what I said cause it's not what I said and how I said it the way you quoted it. it looks like i'm too lazy to do it the OE way and that is not what I said when talking about takes more effort to make the paintjob have peel and runs or sags. I personally like to paint them out of the gun as smooth as I can without runs and orange peel and I have been painting that way so long it's hard for me to do a crappy paintjob,without totally messing it up cause you have to paint it bad on purpose and sometimes it's not as easy as it sounds when your trained to do great paintwork. basically what I would have to do to get a OE type paint job is put a spraygun in the hands of a beginner and tell them to go paint this guys $20-30K car,yah right Also todays paint is different then what yesteryear had to offer and even the Enamel sigle stage paints are better so you would be hard pressed to really duplicate an authentic 70's paintjob.You may get close but a perfect unrestored OE Survivor up against a OE style resto paintjob I gaurentee I can tell you which is which
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: Cudakid]
#470204
09/20/09 12:07 PM
09/20/09 12:07 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054 Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
cloneguy
super street
|
super street
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054
Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
|
Quote:
no i dont want the 25K special, Seems like you hit up all the messageboards with your spam. i am looking for someone qualified to do OEM work thank you
Sorry, we are only members of this board so you must have us confused with someone else.
Check us out in the "Moparts Hot Deals & New Products" Section for some examples and explanations.
Thanks!
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: JeffsCustomPaint]
#470208
09/20/09 01:57 PM
09/20/09 01:57 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
I gaurentee I can tell you which is which
Please do not take this response as being combative. Last year, a guy on this forum told me that "I was going to eat crow" because I said that the Challenger we were restoring would look like a factory correct vehicle when it was completed. He was obviously judging our efforts by his own shortcomings, limitations and understanding of the project. If you have ever tried to do an OE Factory type paint job, you would realize that the skill and effort is ten times more involved than simply spraying paint, sanding and buffing. It is the later paint process that is performed by a novice so they can hide or fix their inability to correctly apply the paint to begin with. As far as your "gaurentee" to tell a factory job from an OE restoration, I will gladly take you up on that challenge. Make it a point to come to next years Mopar Nationals and I will guarantee that your ability to distinguish the difference will not be as easy as you presume. Please accept my apology for abbreviating your previous quote and condensing it to the point.
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
#470209
09/20/09 04:30 PM
09/20/09 04:30 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,526 Tenn.
jrwoodjoe
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,526
Tenn.
|
Hey Matt! I've been following your post and think it is great that you have owned your car for so long. I believe you are going about it the right way by doing your homework, asking questions and talking to some of the qualified shops mentioned above. I'm pretty sure you are on your way to getting the car restored in a manner that will be pleasing to you. Best of luck with it and please keep posting progress in the restoration section of the board. It would be great to see how it all turns out for ya! Best of luck, Joe
65 Barracuda 70 Challenger
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#470211
09/22/09 10:10 AM
09/22/09 10:10 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,799 ILL
MLR426
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,799
ILL
|
Matt,
In looking at these shops you also need to take in account the attitude of the shop owners and also talk with the employees to get a some what idea of the charecters your dealing with. The shops mentioned all have talent and come highly reccomended by many here on moparts. I personally know Ken Mosier of Finer Details,Troy Angelly and Paul Jacobs of Jacobs and Angelly Restorations. I think both would do a great job with your pride and joy ride. First impressions go along way. Both above have a straight forward no nonsense, no bs approach to handling all issues that come up during the restoration which means they discuss with you the owner of the vehicle any issues that involve work outside the norm. That way there are no surprizes with charges etc. I'm sure many shops have that same approach but some don't.
logan426
Last edited by Logan426; 09/22/09 10:12 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: Cudakid]
#470212
09/22/09 12:32 PM
09/22/09 12:32 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,162 DELAWARE
TONY_DAGOSTINO
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,162
DELAWARE
|
hi
there is alot of great advice here
there are a couple of things that should be taken into consideration, and i have had personal dealings with just about all of the shops listed here and feel they are good shops.
1- i know our cars are all labor of love and usually have some degree of sentimental value (especially yours being that your the original owner), but there has to be some kind of $$ ceiling that your willing to invest in your resto work. the problem that i have found is that most shops wont give you a ceiling price, in their own defense they say "we dont know what were getting into" that only holds water if the car has areas of unknowns such as rust, prior work covering mistakes, etc. so if nothing else try to get a worst case scenario price quote. they must have some kind of idea as this isnt their first go around + its hard to turn back once your 1/2 way thru the resto + out of funds.
another aspect in ref to pricing, there should be a cap on payments per aspect ie: when the car is stripped $$ not to exceed, when the car is in prime $$ not to exceed, when the car is painted $$ not to exceed, etc etc,
that way even if you do have a ceiling it wont be reached when the car is only 1/2 done (that happened to me once)
-- i also think its a great idea to be able to visit the shop at least once a month, or get very well detailed pictures, but being there in person is the way to go
--also, you mention you want it to be like when you picked the car up, thats going to require alot of parts hunting and chasing, because repro parts werent on your car when it was made, so either your car has to be a great survivior, which takes care of the parts chasing but then you probably wouldnt need to restore it, or hopefully its very original and you have the orginal parts for reference. or you can go the year one route + make life easy.
another issue to address is that most resto shops can do beautiful work, but how many of them really know about the correctness of every nut, bolt, clip, widget, etc as far as whats correct or not. because if they dont know, then your resto wont be correct. you have to know what you want and so does your resto shop, so spend alot of time in the survivior tent with a digital camera for reference points
but, you should start gathering for whatever original parts you need now, because parts come and go, but youll always be able to get the labor done.
ive been parts gathering for 4+ years for my next resto + still have a few to get.
also ask for a time frame, not to rush the shop, but so you know what to expect.
good luck + keep us posted
tony
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: Cudakid]
#470216
10/03/09 07:17 AM
10/03/09 07:17 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
I may not know who to call for the job your wanting. But I do know that the money spent makes no difference compared to what you are going to do with it; either sell or keep.
If your going to keep it, spend a little more, wait a little longer. Let it be perfect.
If your going for the green choose whichever one offers you the most money in your pocket.
Easy choice to me. (I'm a perfectionist so of course, I'd do it myself, HA).
Last edited by nealcassidy; 10/03/09 07:21 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
[Re: moparmojo]
#470217
10/03/09 09:24 AM
10/03/09 09:24 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,799 ILL
MLR426
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,799
ILL
|
Quote:
Here is a car I recently saw and Monster Mopar. I believe Ken Mosier at Finer Details did. I am not expert, but some cars just draw you in and you know it was a high quality job. The photo does not do it justice as I thought it was one of the nicer cars I saw that weekend.
Your correct picture does no justice, this is an absolute beautiful purple hemi challenger and it also won best of show last weekend at monster mopar, very nice car !!!!
logan426
|
|
|
Re: Looking for Detail Oriented Resto Shop
#470218
10/04/09 09:03 AM
10/04/09 09:03 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908 Franklinville,NJ
JeffsCustomPaint
master
|
master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908
Franklinville,NJ
|
Quote:
Quote:
I gaurentee I can tell you which is which
Please do not take this response as being combative. Last year, a guy on this forum told me that "I was going to eat crow" because I said that the Challenger we were restoring would look like a factory correct vehicle when it was completed. He was obviously judging our efforts by his own shortcomings, limitations and understanding of the project. If you have ever tried to do an OE Factory type paint job, you would realize that the skill and effort is ten times more involved than simply spraying paint, sanding and buffing. It is the later paint process that is performed by a novice so they can hide or fix their inability to correctly apply the paint to begin with. As far as your "gaurentee" to tell a factory job from an OE restoration, I will gladly take you up on that challenge. Make it a point to come to next years Mopar Nationals and I will guarantee that your ability to distinguish the difference will not be as easy as you presume. Please accept my apology for abbreviating your previous quote and condensing it to the point.
no appologies needed but I can tell the difference from new paint and OE paint and that is something you can never reproduce. i'm not putting down your work or abilities as I know it takes more work and skills to do an OE style paintjob and have it come out clean and not have to buff it.First of all you have to use enamel paint as there was no Basecoat/Clearcoat paintjobs back then.I'm not sure about Mopars but Fords and Chevy's had Lacquer on them back in the 60's and 70's and then progressed to the enamels as they were more durable then the lacquers and had a deeper shine. I have seen many nice quality rsto's but you can always tell it's not a Surviver with immaculate paint that has survived like new. The OE survivor paintjobs no matter how good of shape they are still reflect and old paintjob as the new paints just have the certain look and fresh gloss. You can kill some of the fresh paint look by going over it with a buffer without wetsanding it smooth but it still looks different then 30 year old paint and that is what I meen that I can tell it's not an OE original paintjob
|
|
|
|
|