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Built right and used in the proper application and installed correctly you should not have issues.We have used the pushrods from Indy for 10 years and can only remember one bad set for a small block and can count the number of cup issues on one hand.Most the problems that occurred were caused by geometry and oiling issues.If your building a engine with big demands then you should use top quality custom valve train part and not over the counter kit pieces.Like rockers,springs,retainers,valves and locks don't cheap out on the pushrods.

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my 500 ci indy motor has had 0 issues with indy pushrods.this motor is not on kill but very respectable at 715 hp.

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Well as a matter of FACT! I aparently am crazy
But now I'm crazy enough to go eslewhere for parts and service. Just an expensive lesson.

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dont feel alone there is more of us in the same boat with you.

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I broke two that popped the cups right off the end. I bought the whole 295 ez c&c kit with 620 comp cam, Over $4k! Indy will not help anyone with it but I did talk to Manton today about this very issue. The person I talked to said Indy knows they have a problem and are in the process of changing the rockers and pushrods. They also said when indy does thier own engines they use MANTON pushrods.Its definatly disgusting spending "Indy Money" Making 7 runs and only 5 all the way through. My Advise, If your looking into buying an Indy Head Kit, Get the heads and Heads only!

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Are you saying Indy is cheap over the counter pieces? Those are your words not mine.Indy puts to gether a basic quality and affordable kit and when used properly and in the proper application is very reliable,this can be attest to by the hundereds of engines that we have built and the many BGR racers that are quite successfull.Indy offers many upgrades as far componants and the customer or their builder must make the determination as to what level of reliability is needed and what parts(quality) are needed.The information is readly available from the many good venders and builders here on this sight and others.Example ie: you wouldn't use Dove rockers on a 800 lift cam with 900lb spring pressure.At some point people have to rely on common sence and get good advise as the first step in building anything,race oriented or otherwise.A good game plan before spending dollars,a well organized plan with specific goals,and a well executed plan will usually be successfull.

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BTW Barnyard Bob, didn't mean to step on any toes here. Sounds to me like you're one of the good guys, but no all of Indy's dealers want to spend much time with their customers. Just get the sale and get off the phone so they can go racing.

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Your not stepping on anyone toes here.We are more of a engine/race car building shop and not a parts retail shop.90% of our stuff is used in our builds that we stand behind.As I have said many times we are not here to sell anyone anything,we are here to share our experience and knowledge and gain the same from others who do likewise.To construe my comment "don't cheap out" was not saying anyones product is cheap ie: go to AutoZone and you can by their brand of ball joint or the more expensive Moog ball joint.They will both serve the purpose,which will last longer?There is an inherient cost for top quality and realiability,your choise,Crane or Jesel.I just finished a set of pushrods for a member here that had Smiths pushrods that all bent,Smths sold him 5/16 rods for a wedge with 300# seat,go figure?Great pushrods,wrong application

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I remember a while back everybody was having adjusters break(including me). The cause was apparently a batch that was not heat treated properly. I dont think Crane ever admitted it but everybody was getting them from the same vendor. Could be a simialr problem with the push rods.

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Same here,we had HS adjusters breaking at idle.Watched them with the valve covers off.They were light grey in color we replaced them with a new dark black and no more problems.

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Several of mine look exactly like that. The others are missing the cup!

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that is when i found these, when a cup snapped off at idle. but to be fair, i didn't build these properly. now i find that out

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this is mine that only had break in time on the motor, 4 heat cycles in the shop no racing, anybody know why?

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That's like ours broke,flush with the jamb nut.Once we heat cycled the engine and the rockers expanded the adjuster just popped off.Nothing was hurt since we were at idle,had it been at high RPMS there would have been more serious issues. Brittle metal