Put a real fusible link in. car ran fine until shifted into second gear and alternat. went wild and the link melted.

- Make sure shift linkage isn't rubbing on NSS harness if you haven't already

- Verify NSS is hooked up properly under the hood

- At this point I would just unplug NSS harness from the trans , pull it up into the engine compartment and isolate it from any metal.

!!!!MAKE SURE CAR IS IN PARK!!! Then jump the start solenoid and fire up the car.

Hop in and run it thru the gears and see what happens.

Try richening the idle mixture if it stalls when you put it in gear.

I have a new NSS i got from a buddy still in the box, i looking at the harness.. it looks good.. BUT i didnt pull it off yet, at the time i was noticing the snapped Speedo cable and just replaced it... But if the NSS harness is good, where do i look next?! Yes the car is 38 years old, but its a southern car and a lot of stuff on it is like new, plus the low miles help,.. The Car is tuned Great now, doesnt stall or blow the fuse in reverse ever since the fusible link blew, and shifting into the gears while not moving, it doesnt blow a fuse, instead it does it while driving when RPM have a dramatic change, then like i said the alt. meter goes Frantic and the fuse blows... i must say , i have never seen a fusible link go so quick!!! it drove fine for about 8 miles.. i guess the NSS has to be looked over thouroughly to really know:/ After a fuse blows or the F.L. blew, it WILL NOT start in park just Neutral

You can chase gremlins, or you can fix it the right way. If you have the bucks you can replace everything. If you want to learn something and can work methodically then get a factory service manual, some good wire, tape, an ohm meter, solder and soldering gun and learn how to fix it yourself. Electrical work is a lot like plumbing, and the wiring diagrams in the FSM have never let me down.
You got a dead short dealing with the NSS wiring. I've seen factory shift linkages chafe and cut into the wiring before. Also have fixed my share of hack jobs, both under the dash and under the hood. If you have the patience to go one wire at a time, you can fix that old harness.

Sounds like an intermittent dead short putting full load on the alternator and stalling the motor, maybe start unhooking unecesary things like horn, heater, etc one at a time until the problem goes away. Have you swapped alternators yet, or had it tested?

The Alt. tested good.. i thought that in the beginning.. heres something tho.. the Horn does NOT work on the harness connections!!! he put an aftermarket steering wheel in and i cant even get it to work by touchin the wire to metal, but i noticed he had a seperate horn button and wiring attached to another 30 amp fuse which went to the battery.. tells me he had an electrical problem before! rear wiring harness has some sort of relay with cut wires on it.. not factory!! looks like he made a third brake light at one point.

This is a learning experience.. cuz even a new harness could have these issues, i have a new dash harness on order, but would like to try and get it up and runnin safely knowing i did it myself.. sounds weird but i like getting my old mopars needing work cuz i feel like i know the car more when i get in there and see everything first hand.. the new harness will be going in as soon as i get it, tho i still want to solve this Duster Gremlin i always see come back in different forms!

FOUND THE GREMLIN!!!! the wiring harness hat wraps around the valve cover to the alternator was hitting the block which melted the ground cable just enough to expose the wires. i was tracing the NSS harness and hit the alt. ground when i heard a ZAP!!! ... fuse blew, spliced and taped new wire in and now.. it goes into reverse, no stall, no fuse blown, drives with alt. meter stayin in the middle, but still no reverse lights. this is most likely due to the rear harness looking cobbed!!.. so no issues there really!! again thanks for all you help.. i knew it had to be somethin stupid!!