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As for the strut hole, this will take a little more thought and effort..., I'm thinking maybe pounding it out or build a puller that will pull it back into shape. I'm not positive but just getting the shape close should be good enough. I would not think that this is a precision measurment.

The tire did not lose any air, but there is some good cracks in the rubber.

I'm not looking at changing the K-Frame out.

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Not the prettiest idea, BUT.... you could measure how much the strut hole is pulled in, then cut the rear poly bushing and inner sleeve that same amount. So you could make up for how much the hole is bent in and then still get you alignment numbers. I bet it's not pulled back a ton. Inspect the extra plate the factory welded to the k-member at the hole there and compart to other side. See if there is a seperation. Could even add a bead of weld on both sides of the plate for good measure.

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2 things happened here.

1) full front end is Poly Bushings. If it was rubber the K-frame would not have taken so much damage.

2) The Sway Bar mounting Tab is not only bolted but also welded to the K-Frame. This also limited the about of damage that did happen. The bolt to the swaybar and lower Control arm "Shock Mount type" was also bent.... With out the lower swaybar the strut would have probably broken and the tire would have folded under and wiped out the quarter....

Looking real close to the K-Frame mounts and Frame rails I still think I'm ok for the repair. Nothing looks tweeked, bolts to the frame haven't slid, no paint or welds are cracked. There is plenty of room once I dropped the sway bar and pulled the strut to work a jig to get hole back into shape. It won't be "Perfect" but it will be "Original"

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Looking real close to the K-Frame mounts and Frame rails I still think I'm ok for the repair. Nothing looks tweeked, bolts to the frame haven't slid, no paint or welds are cracked. There is plenty of room once I dropped the sway bar and pulled the strut to work a jig to get hole back into shape. It won't be "Perfect" but it will be "Original"

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I'm surprised the rim isn't bent more. Almost looks like the tire didn't loose air? Maybe if the rim would have bent more some other parts would not have got bent.

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An Alum or steel rim? Doesn't add up to me. Any tequila involved?

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Looking real close to the K-Frame mounts and Frame rails I still think I'm ok for the repair. Nothing looks tweeked, bolts to the frame haven't slid, no paint or welds are cracked. There is plenty of room once I dropped the sway bar and pulled the strut to work a jig to get hole back into shape. It won't be "Perfect" but it will be "Original"

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I didn't think that strut rod hole was going to be that bad. You could beat and weld it back in place.

But 68HemiB has a point that you'll have about half of the suspension apart anyway.... If you found a 64-66 A-body while you're in the yard with a good K-member for under $30, I'd snag it. $30 is cheaper than an alterkion.

On 64-66 A-body the /6 and V8 bare k-members interchange.

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yea your both right, I'll see what I can find...

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I'm surprised the rim isn't bent more. Almost looks like the tire didn't loose air? Maybe if the rim would have bent more some other parts would not have got bent.

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An Alum or steel rim? Doesn't add up to me. Any tequila involved?

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Aluminum Center Line, they are a heavy rim though for an Aluminum Rim. I here Aluminum is going around .50 a lbs. so I'll do my part and recycle it.... ......... Tequila after I got it home....

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Noble - I just went out & looked at my old stuff; all I have is the old drum upper arms, brake drums, spindles, and ball joints..I must have re-used the original lower arms when I did the disc conversion about 10 years ago.

Anyway, my offer still stands if you can use any of it.
Larry

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Thanks again You Rock

But as you can see I have Disks, I'm not too sure what I would need out of that, but I will give you a Ring if something comes up.

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Many years ago I used to live in San Diego, there was a Mopar only junkyard there called Sweetwater Auto Wrecking.

If they are still MoPar only and still in business they should have what you need. Granted it's been about 16 years since I lived there so who knows, but they we the go to guys back then when all else fail. Of course the Ecology yards had tons of A bodies back then too.


Another source might be the Ocean Beach area, used to be lots of early A's there being used as daily drivers, still a few there now. I know I saw a couple on Google's street view, was looking at my old rental beach house I used to rent.

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So suspension experts - would the weld in plates for lower control arms help prevent the lower control arm damage or transferred the damage to another component? Just wondering...

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That is a real good question.

With the damage that took place the only real up grade to the suspension was the poly bushings.

The 64-66 K-Member is not reinforced at the Strut like the 67 and up. The 72 that I pulled the Lower Control Arm and Strut from had a 1/4" plate welded to the K-Member from the factory. The only reason that I can see that they would do that is 1) they were having issues with the K-Frame Flexing or 2) the K-frames were not holding up to the "Pot Holes".

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The strut hole is getting back into place, A few more pull's and a little tapping is still needed.
I will need to weld the split and time to put it back together...

Here you can see that I have the strut hole pretty much back into shape.

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