Small block roller lifters
#21
02/17/03 10:05 AM
02/17/03 10:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 568 Ormond Beach, FL
71STROKERFISH
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mopar
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OP
mopar
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Posts: 568
Ormond Beach, FL
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Will roller lifter link bars that connect the two lifters interfere with the block? Do all blocks have to be ground a bit to ensure there's no clearance problems??
I've got a 415ci aluminum headed 1976 360 block which is currently out of my car. I'd like to yank the 280/474 purpleshaft and trade it on a roller..just need more info....
-dc SOUTHERNPLAINSMOPAARFEST.COM 2018 Jeep Trackhawk 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.2 AWD-Daily grinder since 1997 1971 Barracuda, 414ci, 6bbl Fitech, 727 1970 Barracuda Convertible, 472 Ray Barton Hemi, 727
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: Quicktree]
#24
02/17/03 04:11 PM
02/17/03 04:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155 Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
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Guys, There is a post running about this right now just look for it. later matt s
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: dwdart]
#29
02/17/03 10:35 PM
02/17/03 10:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155 Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
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Ok, Let me try. 1)If you want to oil thru the pushrods you must bush the block (any block) the bushing has an oiling orfice. 2)The R-1/R-3 block require a longer roller tappet because of a tall tappet boss. Standard solid or hydralic(sp?) lifter. But for a solid or roller tappet lifter you must block the oil paasage in the block. Oiling thru the head. 3)The 340/360 block use a standard roller,solid or hydralic lifter but for the solid and roller tappet you must block off the oil passage. Oiling thru the head.
later matt s
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: 71STROKERFISH]
#30
02/17/03 10:53 PM
02/17/03 10:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547 State College, PA
RyanJ
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Alright, I've been watching this post all day, and I was'nt going to relpy to this post because I am NOT a SB engine "expert" but then again I don't see anyone else stepping up to the plate to help answer your questions..... (EDIT I Type WAY too slow LOL) So here is my best shot, if anyone else out there knows more than this or has corrections to make, be my guest and fire away........
I think "Clonestocker" and I confused things in the other post because we were discussing pushrod oiling. 98 % of guys out there running a solid roller in a SB Mopar are not going to oil through the pushrods. The reason "W5Dart66" and Clonestocker want to do it is because of the T&D non Shaft Mount Rocker arms REQUIRE pushrod oiling. AND to oil through the pushrods requires Bushing the block and special roller lifters. But if you don't fall into the T&D crowd don't worry about bushing the block (unless you want to correct lifter geometry and make it dead on perfect) Bushing a block is an expensive machining operation (~$400-$700 depending on the shop)
Let's start off with a factory block.... In a 273/318/340/360 if you want to run a Solid Roller: You have 2 options...... First was the OLD school way, Tubing the block and running any old .904" Mopar Solid Roller lifter. The link bars interfering with the block would all depend on what brand they were etc. But if any clearancing was required it would be minimal. TODAY we now have the Crane/Comp lifters that do not uncover the oil galley hole, and can be used without tubing the block. The only disadvantage I can see of these lifters is the fact that if one pops out you lose oil pressure instantly where as if you had tubed the block or bushed it, you would'nt lose oil pressure.
NOW if we have an R-3 or 340 Resto Block..... We have issues LOL. The R-3 has alot of extra material around the head bolt bulges, which interferes with the link bars on even the "supposed" Correct MP Roller lifters as Weedlayer found out. An R-3 will have to be clearanced for the link bars no matter what brand lifter you try to stick in there..... AND there is water behind the "meat" you are trying to remove, so CAREFULL material removal is the key here.... But once the block is clearanced, you just need and intermediate shaft with Bronze gear, due to billet steel roller cam being so hard. And obviously you need valvesprings that can handle the radical ramp profiles of a roller camshaft.
Sorry about all the Bushing the block confusion on the other post. But yes I did talk to W5Dart66 and the reason he had to bush his block for pushrod oiling WAS excessive clearance as I thought it was. But like I said before he is in the 2% minortity of guys who HAVE to bush their block.....
Last edited by TheOtherW5Dart; 02/17/03 10:55 PM.
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: Quicktree]
#33
02/18/03 11:11 AM
02/18/03 11:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,686 Phoenix, AZ
Comp_Chassis
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Phoenix, AZ
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From what I understand of the new lifters, up t just over .600 lift, no, you dont have to limit the oil to the lifters, but, if you are running .650 lift or more, they still suggest blocking off the lifter galley because the lifter wheel will still be pushed up into the oil galley. There is no way to stop from uncovering it past a certain lift.
You also have to block the drivers side galley too, or it will dump oil pressur too, but this is a lot easier to do. All of the oil is pumped directly into the passenger side galley. This galley interconnects with the mains and this is how they get thier oil. The drivers side lifter galley gets its oil from the front main. Oil is fed down to the #1 main from the passenger side lifter galley and then crosses over with an interconnecting passage to the drivers side galley. To stop the oil from getting there, you either tap and plug this passage at the main or drive a plug in the galley under the cam plate back far enough to cover up the feed hole.
Once again, if you are using pushrod oiling, you have to bush both sides of the block so that the lifters can get oil.
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: Quicktree]
#35
02/18/03 05:29 PM
02/18/03 05:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155 Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
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Quicktree, You need to bush the lifter bores if your going to oil the top end thru the pushrods. matt s
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: Quicktree]
#37
02/18/03 06:46 PM
02/18/03 06:46 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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If you use the CompCams #828-16 solid-body roller lifters, you do NOT need to do any mods. With 1.6 ratio Harland Sharp rockers I'll have right at .600 lift.(.563 with 1.5) This is the same exact cam and lifters I had running in it with the stock crank. The lifter valley did, however, need to be clearanced for the link-bars to clear. The lifters use captured link-bars.
In this pic of my stroker buildup, you can see a little of where I had to grind for them to clear. (it looks like more than it is)
Last edited by Scotty; 02/18/03 06:54 PM.
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Re: Small block roller lifters
#38
02/18/03 07:01 PM
02/18/03 07:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
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I Win
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: Quicktree]
#39
02/18/03 08:15 PM
02/18/03 08:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,155 Tucson, Arizona
clonestocker
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Scotty, I have the solid body rollers. What your saying is that you don't have to put the tube in the oil gallery? Anyone else? matt s
Ryan , ill get back to you i'm busy building my tranny....thx
Last edited by clonestocker; 02/18/03 10:03 PM.
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Re: Small block roller lifters
[Re: clonestocker]
#40
02/18/03 08:55 PM
02/18/03 08:55 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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