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Re: Iron vs. aluminum block [Re: MoparMuscle] #385622
07/26/09 12:59 PM
07/26/09 12:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer Offline
master
Bob_Coomer  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
Quote:

What does an iron World block sell for?




I picked my World Block up through Troy, before West Oaks bit the dust...It was around $2600 for a Hemi 4.49 bore.


[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color]
[color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
Re: Iron vs. aluminum block [Re: Bob_Coomer] #385623
07/26/09 02:18 PM
07/26/09 02:18 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,533
Alexandria, LA
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Blucuda413 Offline
master
Blucuda413  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,533
Alexandria, LA
There's a guy on RJ advertising either wedge or hemi World Alum blocks for $4099.

Re: Iron vs. aluminum block [Re: Blucuda413] #385624
07/26/09 02:29 PM
07/26/09 02:29 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,247
Chi-Town
PlumCrazyCharger Offline
pro stock
PlumCrazyCharger  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,247
Chi-Town
I disagree with the aluminum vs. iron debate. We run 1100 N/A with a 588" mega filled block and a 620" KB unfilled water block. Not one problem with the sleeves moving around on the 620" KB block. We've sprayed up to 400HP on top of the 1100 HP for a total around 1450-1500 HP. NOT 1 issue. It really boils down to the machine shop preparing and maching all the parts correctly.

Same heads ect.. as the 588" only differance was the lighter aluminum block and a 4.75" Callies crank and the car picked up 3-4 tenths. Oh and we sprayed about 50HP less NOS with the 620". Some of the power came from the stroke of the crank and weight, but I don't believe I lost HP due to the aluminum block. My oponion it's just an ole wise tale.

Re: Iron vs. aluminum block [Re: PlumCrazyCharger] #385625
07/26/09 02:45 PM
07/26/09 02:45 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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BobR Offline
master
BobR  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
Quote:

I disagree with the aluminum vs. iron debate. We run 1100 N/A with a 588" mega filled block and a 620" KB unfilled water block. Not one problem with the sleeves moving around on the 620" KB block. We've sprayed up to 400HP on top of the 1100 HP for a total around 1450-1500 HP. NOT 1 issue. It really boils down to the machine shop preparing and maching all the parts correctly.

Same heads ect.. as the 588" only differance was the lighter aluminum block and a 4.75" Callies crank and the car picked up 3-4 tenths. Oh and we sprayed about 50HP less NOS with the 620". Some of the power came from the stroke of the crank and weight, but I don't believe I lost HP due to the aluminum block. My oponion it's just an ole wise tale.




How do you monitor your ring seal during the run?

Re: Iron vs. aluminum block [Re: Hemiroid] #385626
07/26/09 03:21 PM
07/26/09 03:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
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BIG BEAR Offline
mopar
BIG BEAR  Offline
mopar
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 627
IN
Quote:

I have to make a decision soon on what block to run and am looking for some input. Heads-up hemi, 65 belvedere trying to push the 1100 mark. I know the iron block will make more power, but it weighs a lot more as well. Is there anyone out there putting Worlds new block on a cnc diet? If so, any ideas on how light they can get? The one I saw weighed like 350lbs

There's no wheelie bars allowed so weight on the nose might not be a bad thing. I do like the repairability of alum and the light weight, so it makes for a tough decision on what way to go.

Thanks in advance for any help






I think you would be best off deciding on a budget. The aluminum will cost more initially but cost less to repair (usually)and there are more places to take it to get repaired.The iron block will be less initially but cost more to repair (usually) and not as many places to take it to get repaired. The other thing to consider is the power level, if you are looking to stay around 1,100 hp, a good block should hold up pretty well reguardless iron or aluminum

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