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Now that I look at the picture I see why he sent you that thru bolt idler. That is the long idler (actually listed optional on the FF site) that goes with the long pitman arm. It's actually a 71 C -body idler. The original E-bodies with the Fast Ratio option steering had the standard shorter idler on one side. Firm Feel offers to upgrade/correct the situation with the C-body idler. But that only worked on thru bolt idler aplications.

Idler for your car on www.rockauto.com MOOG Part # K779 Frt Strg; Problem Solver $48.79

You could run a 66/67 idler on one side. BUT, I think you are running the longer arm/fast ratio idler arm for the oil pan clearence issues also??

This is ugly... but you could just run a bolt the fits super tight through the stud hole and bolt that long idler in. Use some sort of locking bolt and an thick hardened washer to cover the taper hole and support the end bearing shaft. Don't tighten to too tight though. It will bind the bearing inside the idler. Keep tightening and moving the idler and you will feel it get harder to turn.

For some reason there was a 67 idler stud type Kmember in my 68 Barracuda. I ran the through hole 68 idler for about 4 years.

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Thanks Autox. Thats what I was thinking about doing. Was your stud tapered? Mine is. Do you think that will be an issue? If you ran it like that for 4 years and never had a problem its safe to say your good. I might have to drill it out though. The through bolt is 9/16" and the stud uses a 1/2" nut.

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What carb/intake are you running? That is, how close is your air cleaner to the hood?

You may be able to shim the motor mounts slightly to lift the engine enough for the center link to clear.

When I bought my 340 GTS years ago, the centerlink was dragging on the headers. Turned out to be the motor mounts were shot. Replaced them with new, and the center link cleared...

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