My brakes are spongy at best on my Cuda. I have simply just got use to the fact that my brakes will never be that great as I have never had any luck bleeding them. Couple buddies just told me to crack all four bleeders and let it drip. They said keep an eye on the master and let it drip.
What do you think. Is this feasible??

Yes that work fine it is refered to gravity bleeding.

I have done it a few times.

that works but takes time, and must watch master, i have a small vacuum pump that i plug in to 110 and made a catch can out of a glass jar now i can bleed or change fluid out in minutes. i would try a hand vacuum pump if its a pain to get someone to help you.

That is called gravity bleeding and yes, it is a valid method of bleeding brakes.
You just need to keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir and not let the fluid level get too low!
I had guys at my old work at a brake parts manufacturer tell me that when you are gravity bleeding, to tap on the calipers with a small hammer to help air bubbles break loose from the inside walls, not sure if that really helps but it can't hurt.

What kind of a time frame are we talking to let it drip.

I dunno...overnight?

I've never done it myself, but had good luck with the "one man bleeder kits" you crack open the screw, attach a rubber hose to it, going to a small bottle with a magnet, and mount it up higher than the bleeder screw. go up and pump the brakes a few times, keeping the master full. As the air pumps out, it "floats" to the top, and into the bottle, eventually you'll have good solid fluid in the rubber hose, and you can go ahead and close the bleeder and move to the next wheel.

don't forget to start with the master cylinder first! crack open the lines and slowly and steadilly pump the pedal. I never believed that it needed to be done myself, I always figured "what difference does it make if the brake lines are loose at the master or not? pump the pedal, it should push the air out and into the lines, and ultimatly, out of the bleeder screw at the wheels" but after pumping and pumping and pumping, I never got a full pedal. cracked the lines at the master and got out a lot of air, and then the pedal was rock hard! go figure!

I am glad you broght up the master. I fogot to ask this. I bench bled the master (new one) last night. I use a screwdriver and press on the piston until the air bubble were not longer coming out. It appear that only the rear brake resevior was functioning properly. Front brake resevior did not really do anything. Just a few tiny bubbles. Maybe my master has a pile of air still in it??

Doing it one wheel at a time you leave it open for a 1/2 to an hour. Just keep an eye on the master level. If it goes down about 1/2 way you have run plenty of fluid through that wheel.

Ok, that gives me a ballpark to work with.
Thank you,

If I use this method will the master bleed out as well?

Just my ,

with Stumpy. Do 1 wheel at a time. Furthest from the MC first then work your way back via the other wheels.

1st = right rear
2nd = left rear
3rd = right front
4th = left front.

You get the idea....besides that all the wheels there are

Frank

bench bleed the M/C(on the car) w a block of wood the right thickness under the pedal so you dont push the piston past it's normal wear area w will(over the long term) hasten it's demise and M/C's aren't known for longevity anyhow. then I'd hookup one side at a time & bleed it out w a Mityvac or a check valve hose or an old fashioned helper. Gravity bleeding does work(as said)& bench bleed the M/C first & pump it to start the fluid flowing. Might need to gravity bleed then one of the other methods in addition to that.

The best - fastest, easiest, way I have found to do 1 man bleeding is with a "Mighty-Vac". If you by the Mighty Vac Kit, it will come with everything you need to Vacuum bleed your brakes - resevoir, hoses, and the little nipple that snaps on to the bleeder screw. Doing them one at a time ( and it doesn't make any difference where you start ) you can do the entire system in 1/2 hour. No drips, no runs, no air in your lines - and when your done you have a great shop tool for many other purposes.

I've had brakes that I couldn't get all the air out even with my mighty-vac. I ended up buying those quick zerks with the check ball in them...they work great. You just put a hose on it to a jar and crack the zerk and start pumping...just don't let the master cylinder run empty.

Leaving tomorrow at noon for Carlisle, so I am going home soon to try a couple of these methods. Would be very excited to actually have more that a 1/2" of brake pedal pressure.

Find someone with a pressure bleeder. It holds a gallon of fluid and you attach the lid to the master cly and turn on the power bleeder.It pressure bleds the lines in minutes. I have used it for over 25 years and have never had a problem getting brakes bleed. Last weekend I flushed out my 74 challenger, that fluid was close to 10 years old. Took longer to attach the lid than it did to flush the brakes. I have many adaptors for all different types of master clys. Last month I replaced a master cly on a boat trailer bleed those brakes in a minute, literly.Time is money!

This is the one for dual cast iron master clys.

Ive seen some empty the master in 15 minutes.It depends on the system.I crack the rears then close after they bleed for a bit then do the fronts the same.Then I pump the pedal a few times easy and repeat.Ive done hundreds at work that way when no help was avaliable.Rocky

Be sure to adjust the brakes also.