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340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore #365646 07/03/09 09:16 PM 07/03/09 09:16 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	While I am tryng to figure out why my 340 surges at a constant speed...now all of a sudden, it won't kick over and run. Cranks over like crazy. I stuck a screwdriver in the #1 wire and held it near the exhaust manifold while cranking the motor, to see of there was any spark...nothing. Pulled the #1 plug and it was "wet". I installed the Mopar Electronic Ignition kit, bought from Mancini, when I got it together and it ran well, except for that surge issue. I checked the installation connections according to the instructions. All good. With the key in the on position I took a test light and I have power from the ballast resistor and power to the coil. Called Mancini and the gentleman there told me "It could be the ECU box or the ballast resistor" So I went to a local parts store, bought a replacment ECU...but the plug end won't slip on it easily like with the mopar ECU though the pin placement looks the same. I didn't want to force it on so I stopped to check in with you guys before I broke something. What else should I be looking at. I wanted to drive it to Carlisle..but that's not looking very good at this point. thanks Mike

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365647 07/03/09 09:30 PM 07/03/09 09:30 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Hello Mike. Those connectors can be a tight fit, just wiggle it a bit to make sure it's starting straight & all of the pins are started then wiggle it as you push it in. Hopefully you'll be ready to hit the road & if not take off the coil neg to ecu wire & w a jumper ground the coil negative TERMINAL(key on) to ground, tap tap tap to ground & see if your coil wire(1/4" from ground) sparks live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365648 07/03/09 09:57 PM 07/03/09 09:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: Hello Mike. Those connectors can be a tight fit, just wiggle it a bit to make sure it's starting straight & all of the pins are started then wiggle it as you push it in. Hopefully you'll be ready to hit the road & if not take off the coil neg to ecu wire & w a jumper ground the coil negative TERMINAL(key on) to ground, tap tap tap to ground & see if your coil wire(1/4" from ground) sparks Hello Robert, I took a jumper and grounded the neg side of the coil to the exhaust manifold and there are sparks. Mike

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365649 07/03/09 10:05 PM 07/03/09 10:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	ECU or dist pickup & very likely to be the ECU. You're going to make Carlyle yet in spite of your luck! live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365650 07/03/09 10:13 PM 07/03/09 10:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: ECU or dist pickup & very likely to be the ECU. You're going to make Carlyle yet in spite of your luck! What is the distributor pickup....I bought this system several years ago year @ carlisle...did I make a mistake going with the Mopar product and not with another brand....and this could be my surge problem too..couldn't it? lots of questions tonight

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365651 07/03/09 10:21 PM 07/03/09 10:21 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Quote: What is the distributor pickup lots of questions tonight (1) its the small coil inside the dist that puts out a small current when a reluctor tooth goes past it & this current triggers the ECU to open the big coil pri field(for it to fire) just like dist points used to do back in the day (2) No sweat, I have more time than money live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365652 07/03/09 10:34 PM 07/03/09 10:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	thanks for the primer Robert. Earlier today I pulled the dist and checked the air gap w/ a .008 feeler gauge. Seemed pretty sloppy. When you adjust the screw to .008...some of the reluctors gapped out @ .010. Is there a tolerance on the air gap? wish I had the dual point still.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365653 07/03/09 10:38 PM 07/03/09 10:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	Do you have 12v to the coil while cranking? There are two different power sources one during cranking that bypasses the ballast and the one in run that goes through the ballast.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365654 07/03/09 10:40 PM 07/03/09 10:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Stumpy All I have is a test light and a timing light in my tool box. what tool do I need to measure voltage?

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365655 07/03/09 10:46 PM 07/03/09 10:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	Just use the test light to see if it lights up while cranking.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365656 07/03/09 11:09 PM 07/03/09 11:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	make sure I have this right. Hold the test light on the negative post of the coil with the two wires screwed on (they are still off when I did the spark test earlier) Crank the motor and see of it lights up.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365657 07/03/09 11:12 PM 07/03/09 11:12 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	yes, stab the test light to a ground & see if it blinks when you crank it live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365658 07/03/09 11:21 PM 07/03/09 11:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: yes, stab the test light to a ground & see if it blinks when you crank it Test light grounded to the battery. stick end on the Negative side of the coil. key in the off position. cross the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to crank the motor. Cranks...No light Key in the start position. Cross the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to crank the motor. Cranks and lights up. not strong light but it does light up.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365659 07/04/09 12:11 AM 07/04/09 12:11 AM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	No blinky? Did you get that ECU in? live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365660 07/04/09 07:27 AM 07/04/09 07:27 AM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: No blinky? Did you get that ECU in? I want to start the trouble shooting process from scratch so I put everything back together with the Mopar ECU. The plug does not want to go on the aftermarket "blue" ECU without major forcing.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365661 07/04/09 11:02 AM 07/04/09 11:02 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	First you need to check for power at the positive side of the coil when starting with the key. Clip the test light wire to the pos coil post and ground the pointed end of the light. Then turn the key to start and the light should light up steady while cranking. Plug should go on the ecu without being forced very hard.It will fit snug. Make sure the pins are straight and that you have the plug going on the right way.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365662 07/04/09 11:25 AM 07/04/09 11:25 AM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: First you need to check for power at the positive side of the coil when starting with the key. Clip the test light wire to the pos coil post and ground the pointed end of the light. Then turn the key to start and the light should light up steady while cranking. Plug should go on the ecu without being forced very hard.It will fit snug. Make sure the pins are straight and that you have the plug going on the right way. Clipped the test light to the POS coil post. had a helper crank the motor. I have a steady light. The pins are straight on my replacement ECU, but I would have to take channel locks and try to squeeze the plug on.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365663 07/04/09 11:36 AM 07/04/09 11:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	If you have to fight the plug on that hard something is wrong.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365664 07/04/09 11:45 AM 07/04/09 11:45 AM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: If you have to fight the plug on that hard something is wrong. I ran to the parts store this morning and got another ballast resistor. The counter guy had an ohm meter and I asked him to read it. It read 2+ on the meter. He read the one I took with me that came in the Mopar kit and it read 1.2 / 1.3...I put the parts store unit on and when my helper cranked the motor it got REALLY hot. That can't be right either. I took it off and put the one that came from the kit back on. That can't be right either. So I'm not sure where to go from here. Get another ECU?

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365665 07/04/09 11:48 AM 07/04/09 11:48 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	The ballast resistor gets very hot. It's job is to create resistance which generates heat.You need to get the ecu that fits correctly. You should not have to force the plug on.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365666 07/04/09 11:51 AM 07/04/09 11:51 AM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: The ballast resistor gets very hot. It's job is to create resistance which generates heat.You need to get the ecu that fits correctly. You should not have to force the plug on. The one that came in the kit didn't get hot at all. On my way to the parts store. Will report back

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365667 07/04/09 01:25 PM 07/04/09 01:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: Quote: The ballast resistor gets very hot. It's job is to create resistance which generates heat.You need to get the ecu that fits correctly. You should not have to force the plug on. The one that came in the kit didn't get hot at all. On my way to the parts store. Will report back Got another ECU...different brand....still can't get the plug from the Mopar unit on either one of the aftermarket ECU's. Slips right on the Mopar unit. I dug out an old wiring harness from a 74 a-body...and that plug slips right on both aftermarket ECU's. they all look the same. Something is keeping this plug from going on. This is very frustrating

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365668 07/04/09 01:56 PM 07/04/09 01:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas stumpy I Win
stumpy I Win Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 33,005 Grand Prairie,Texas	Have you tried starting it with the Mopar unit installed and grounded? Try matching the MOpar unit and the blue rplacement and see what the difference is.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: stumpy] #365669 07/04/09 02:11 PM 07/04/09 02:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: Have you tried starting it with the Mopar unit installed and grounded? Try matching the MOpar unit and the blue rplacement and see what the difference is. I've taken a dremel and ground all the paint off the fender (where I mounted the ECU)so there is a good ground between the fender and the unit. I been out fiddling with the ECU's and the plug on the harness...for the last hour Trying to get the plug to fit either of the two (now three)replacement units. The orange Mopar unit... the Blue replacement unit I bought last night the silver replacement unit I bought today (trying different brands) all look very similar. I found the old ECU unit that was on that old 74 wiring harness I have...and the plug won't fit on that one either. this doesn't make sense at all.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365670 07/04/09 02:22 PM 07/04/09 02:22 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Mike you might get a file or some sandpaper & get it to slide on by taking off a little bit of stock. Good luck live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365671 07/04/09 04:38 PM 07/04/09 04:38 PM
Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 6,301 colorado A a12superbee master
a12superbee master A Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 6,301 colorado	Quote: I found the old ECU unit that was on that old 74 wiring harness I have...and the plug won't fit on that one either. this doesn't make sense at all. You're right, that makes no sense at all. Do you have access to a caliper or good ruler to take a some quick measurements to compare the mounting areas of the ecu's? If you haven't already, take the screw all the way out of the harness before you try to mash it in the new ecu. I know it sounds obvious, but are you sure you don't have the 5/4 harness to ecu pin thing going on? I can't afford this. mark

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: a12superbee] #365672 07/04/09 05:40 PM 07/04/09 05:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	None of the ECU's came w/ the screw that holds the plug to the ECU. They all have the little silver cap where the screw would "screw into". I did find a screw and washer long enough and tried to draw the plug up on the Blue ECU...but that didn't work either. The cap just popped off the unit and drew up into the plug. I don't have anything to measure the pin thickness...but after staring at them...I think the Mopar ECU pins are a touch thinner than than the aftermarket ECU pins. I went out and bought a bit for my dremel and, as Robert suggested, I'll file the "blue" aftermarket ECU pins and see if that is in fact why I can't get the plug to go in the unit. It's the only reason I can see why it won't fit. I hope this is the problem to the non starting issue.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365673 07/05/09 11:12 AM 07/05/09 11:12 AM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	I filed the pins down on the two replacement ECU's and the plug goes on now. I still don't have any spark to the plugs. I have power to the coil, ballast resistor. The replacement ECU on. Is there a way to test the power to the distributor? what am I not doing or checking? any ideas?

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365674 07/05/09 12:46 PM 07/05/09 12:46 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Cover the basics: see if there's power to the "point" of the pentastar ECU connector, coil primary positive when the key is in "start"(grab a helper or watch the test light as you turn the key). Take off the coil pri neg wire(that goes to the ECU) & w a jumper ground the coil terminal(not the wire you took off) to ground,tap tap tap & see if the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground sparks(key "on"). If you have a VOM unplug the dist pickup connector & see the dist coil pickup has continuity(& how much), if you have another dist in your stash plug it in & with the ECU to coil primary negative wire hooked back up(& key on)spin it by hand & see if that dist makes the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground spark. live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365675 07/05/09 02:00 PM 07/05/09 02:00 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	YES - Power to the pentastar ECU plug "point" YES - Power to the coil POSITIVE primary post YES - Power when helper cranks the motor TINY SPARKS - when I grounded the NEGATIVE post of the coil to the exhaust maifold. DOES NO SPARK - holding the jumper 1/4" from the exhaist mainfold Don't have a Volt Meter (yet) What is the Distributor pick up connector. Is that the little two prong plug that goes into the Distributor? If it is...I took apart the connector and stuck the test light in it. The TL didn't light up but I heard a faint noise that sounded like static.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365676 07/05/09 03:00 PM 07/05/09 03:00 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Quote: What is the Distributor pick up connector. Is that the little two prong plug that goes into the Distributor? Correct. Earlier when you jumped the coil neg pri terminal(repeatedly) to ground it did make the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground spark, doing the same thing now there's no spark? live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365677 07/05/09 05:25 PM 07/05/09 05:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Not sure what I did... Replaced the dist cap Replaced the rotor Replaced the plugs Replaced the wires Replaced the ECU Replaced the ballast resistor Pulled and checked the airgap on the distributor Disconnected, wire brushed, and re-connected all of the wiring connections. Reset the motor to TDC @ the #1 cylinder. and after a jump from my minivan, as I had run the battery down with all the cranking, It finally fired off and ran by itself...not great...but sustains an idle now. I took it up and down the street to charge the battery...and it ran as poorly as it did before...the surging continues(as Robert well knows)...but the key is...IT'S RUNNING AGAIN and now it can continue the hunt for the reason why it won't run smoothly at speed. The only thing that doesn't work NOW is my tach. It was working before. So gents, my thanks for standing at my side with your guidence and suggestions. I couldn't do this without you. Still don't know about running it up to Carlsile Friday...confidence level has been shaken a bit with this last mystery. We'll see how much progress we make this week. Again, Thanks guys. Mike

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365678 07/05/09 05:42 PM 07/05/09 05:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Michael I'm glad it's running especially after spending all that money/time for those multiple parts, if you had nothing to show for it after all that you'd really be bummed . What did you put your timing at? live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365679 07/05/09 06:45 PM 07/05/09 06:45 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	well Robert...I put the timing light on it and when I set it @ 5 BTC the idle is aweful...so I kept turning the distributor counter clockwise until it seemed to smoooth out some. I installed a different cam in the motor when we re-built it so many years ago...it's PN 4452759. I wished I would have put the stock replacememnt cam in at that time...but I was listening to the "experts"...who said "No No...you need a bigger camshaft" So the short answer is...I have no idea where this thing is timed anymore. The hash mark on the harmonic balancer can't be seen at all.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365680 07/05/09 06:58 PM 07/05/09 06:58 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	we"ll assume(for now) that the TDC marks are good. with a magic marker make a mark 1" CW from the orig TDC line on the harmonic dampener which'll be a c hair under 16 BTDC. Might get you close(or at least in the right direction.EDIT totally spaced that you have that much(I think) w the stock tab, you might set it @~15 & see how it acts but if the mark cant be seen it's way too advanced(with you turning the dist ccw).Turn it back CW. Last edited by RapidRobert; 07/05/09 09:36 PM. live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365681 07/05/09 10:50 PM 07/05/09 10:50 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	when I turn the dist clockwise... back to where the mark can be seen on the balancer...the idle is very very rough. think it is the cam we put in that's giving me this problem?

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365682 07/05/09 10:53 PM 07/05/09 10:53 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	I'm not enough of a cam guy to know how much ballpark initial it is needing. Edit I just found it in my old book. P4452759, adv dur 260/268, overlap 44, CL 110, lift .430/.450 basic rpm;1200-5200 listed for drag mild competition & high perf RV Last edited by RapidRobert; 07/05/09 11:02 PM.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: RapidRobert] #365683 07/05/09 11:24 PM 07/05/09 11:24 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	Quote: I'm not enough of a cam guy to know how much ballpark initial it is needing. Edit I just found it in my old book. P4452759, adv dur 260/268, overlap 44, CL 110, lift .430/.450 basic rpm;1200-5200 listed for drag mild competition & high perf RV Like I said...I let this other guy pick the cam...I should have gone w/ the stock replacement unit. So maybe the Dart is surging because the cam wants to run not just cruise

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365684 07/06/09 09:00 AM 07/06/09 09:00 AM
Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 15,493 the boonies aarcuda I Live Here
aarcuda I Live Here Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 15,493 the boonies	That cam is tiny. Not that big at all. You sound like you have a carb problem flooding it out. Change your plugs. What carb u have?

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: aarcuda] #365685 07/06/09 05:11 PM 07/06/09 05:11 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia A ashburnmike OP mopar
ashburnmike OP mopar A Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 455 Ashburn, Virginia	It's a rebuilt thru YO Carter # 4937S...which according to my research is supposed to go on a 1970 340 A/T ECS. My car is a '70 4 speed which is supposed to have a # 4933.

Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore [Re: ashburnmike] #365686 07/06/09 05:37 PM 07/06/09 05:37 PM
Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,037 hi sharpie Moparts Linguist
sharpie Moparts Linguist Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,037 hi	Mike, I had a similar problem recently and am still having the problem intermittantly. Look for correct fuel pressure and also look for crud in your fuel filter.

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