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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: stumpy]
#365666
07/04/09 11:51 AM
07/04/09 11:51 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
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Quote:
The ballast resistor gets very hot. It's job is to create resistance which generates heat.You need to get the ecu that fits correctly. You should not have to force the plug on.
The one that came in the kit didn't get hot at all.
On my way to the parts store. Will report back
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365667
07/04/09 01:25 PM
07/04/09 01:25 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
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Quote:
Quote:
The ballast resistor gets very hot. It's job is to create resistance which generates heat.You need to get the ecu that fits correctly. You should not have to force the plug on.
The one that came in the kit didn't get hot at all.
On my way to the parts store. Will report back
Got another ECU...different brand....still can't get the plug from the Mopar unit on either one of the aftermarket ECU's. Slips right on the Mopar unit.
I dug out an old wiring harness from a 74 a-body...and that plug slips right on both aftermarket ECU's.
they all look the same. 
Something is keeping this plug from going on.
This is very frustrating
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: stumpy]
#365669
07/04/09 02:11 PM
07/04/09 02:11 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
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Quote:
Have you tried starting it with the Mopar unit installed and grounded? Try matching the MOpar unit and the blue rplacement and see what the difference is.
I've taken a dremel and ground all the paint off the fender (where I mounted the ECU)so there is a good ground between the fender and the unit.
I been out fiddling with the ECU's and the plug on the harness...for the last hour
Trying to get the plug to fit either of the two (now three)replacement units.
The orange Mopar unit...
the Blue replacement unit I bought last night
the silver replacement unit I bought today (trying different brands) all look very similar.
I found the old ECU unit that was on that old 74 wiring harness I have...and the plug won't fit on that one either.
this doesn't make sense at all.
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365670
07/04/09 02:22 PM
07/04/09 02:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Mike you might get a file or some sandpaper & get it to slide on by taking off a little bit of stock. Good luck
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365673
07/05/09 11:12 AM
07/05/09 11:12 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
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Ashburn, Virginia
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I filed the pins down on the two replacement ECU's and the plug goes on now. I still don't have any spark to the plugs. I have power to the coil, ballast resistor. The replacement ECU on. Is there a way to test the power to the distributor? what am I not doing or checking? any ideas? 
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365674
07/05/09 12:46 PM
07/05/09 12:46 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Cover the basics: see if there's power to the "point" of the pentastar ECU connector, coil primary positive when the key is in "start"(grab a helper or watch the test light as you turn the key). Take off the coil pri neg wire(that goes to the ECU) & w a jumper ground the coil terminal(not the wire you took off) to ground,tap tap tap & see if the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground sparks(key "on"). If you have a VOM unplug the dist pickup connector & see the dist coil pickup has continuity(& how much), if you have another dist in your stash plug it in & with the ECU to coil primary negative wire hooked back up(& key on)spin it by hand & see if that dist makes the coil secondary wire 1/4" from ground spark.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: RapidRobert]
#365677
07/05/09 05:25 PM
07/05/09 05:25 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
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Ashburn, Virginia
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Not sure what I did... Replaced the dist cap Replaced the rotor Replaced the plugs Replaced the wires Replaced the ECU Replaced the ballast resistor Pulled and checked the airgap on the distributor Disconnected, wire brushed, and re-connected all of the wiring connections. Reset the motor to TDC @ the #1 cylinder. and after a jump from my minivan, as I had run the battery down with all the cranking, It finally fired off and ran by itself...not great...but sustains an idle now.  I took it up and down the street to charge the battery...and it ran as poorly as it did before...the surging continues(as Robert well knows)...but the key is...IT'S RUNNING AGAIN and now it can continue the hunt for the reason why it won't run smoothly at speed. The only thing that doesn't work NOW is my tach. It was working before. So gents, my thanks for standing at my side with your guidence and suggestions. I couldn't do this without you. Still don't know about running it up to Carlsile Friday...confidence level has been shaken a bit with this last mystery. We'll see how much progress we make this week. Again, Thanks guys. Mike
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365678
07/05/09 05:42 PM
07/05/09 05:42 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Michael I'm glad it's running especially after spending all that money/time for those multiple parts, if you had nothing to show for it after all that you'd really be bummed  . What did you put your timing at?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: ashburnmike]
#365680
07/05/09 06:58 PM
07/05/09 06:58 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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we"ll assume(for now) that the TDC marks are good. with a magic marker make a mark 1" CW from the orig TDC line on the harmonic dampener which'll be a c hair under 16 BTDC. Might get you close(or at least in the right direction.EDIT totally spaced that you have that much(I think) w the stock tab, you might set it @~15 & see how it acts but if the mark cant be seen it's way too advanced(with you turning the dist ccw).Turn it back CW.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 07/05/09 09:36 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 340 cranks but won't kick over and run anymore
[Re: RapidRobert]
#365683
07/05/09 11:24 PM
07/05/09 11:24 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
ashburnmike
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OP
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Posts: 455
Ashburn, Virginia
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Quote:
I'm not enough of a cam guy to know how much ballpark initial it is needing. Edit I just found it in my old book. P4452759, adv dur 260/268, overlap 44, CL 110, lift .430/.450 basic rpm;1200-5200 listed for drag mild competition & high perf RV 
Like I said...I let this other guy pick the cam...I should have gone w/ the stock replacement unit.
So maybe the Dart is surging because the cam wants to run not just cruise 
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