I was going to convert the 6X4.5 bolt pattern on this 97 to 5X4.5 turned in to more work than I have time. We are looking for some plain black steel wheels for the Dakota and go that route.

Just for everyones information this started out as a regular cab 1997 Dodge Dakota truck. I'm trying to keep everything Mopar. The frame was longer than the original 1940 Desoto. I'm trying to position the rear axle on the frame in relation to the wheel openings as to not cut and repositon the frame.

they make the black cragar soft 8's for dakotas in 15, 16, and 17". Also available in chrome. check summit and offroadtoystore.

Very nice work there....don't give up !!

Been building muscle cars for years now, but I'll say goodbye to them soon a go for a rod like yours in my next projects.....this is so coooool !

Daniel

Hey thanks. I did my restoration on my 79 Lil Red I know what you are saying. I just got back from Martin, MI at the F.A.S.T and Factory Stock Drags. It was a blast. I'll keep yoou guys up on the progress.

40 dodge busnies coupe here,,needs some up dating,,great topic,,that poly looks lost in that big nose,,nice project,,

cant wait to see more on this topic,, yipppee ifinally figured out why i was never recieving e mails from this site,,,

Well fellow street rodders I have a update and some pics to show you. I started this project with the idea of just sitting the $0 Desoto body on a 97 Dakota frame. The the Dakota frame was close to my shop and cheap $100. The original pics I posted was the idea but it just didn't work out the way I needed it to. So here's what I did. Stubed in the 97 Dakota front frame using the allready fabricated engine mounts and here's what happed. Take a look

More pics. the pics here and just the start of the stub in.

I was going to use the Poly 318 in the beginning but it had so much blow by I put a LA 318 in its place. Runs good so far. More pics......... Oh by the way, I think a thread was started on cost of installing a front suspension on a 41 Ply. That's my next project for another buddy using a earlier Dakota frame. I think he gave $125 for a complete frame. I'm sure we will swap out labor.

Just to answer the remark of a 318 getting lost in that bay, here's an old shot of when I assembled the 40.

and one with the front sheetmetal on...

Hood on (years later, but no further....

i have a few questions,,,
first any chance of a close up pic of the area where the 40 frame and the dakota stub are joined,,please,,,

next,,i may have to remove the front clip,,from my 40,,not sure yet,,if so i didnt assemble this car,, i should of bult it,,but oh well,,,any tips on how i could unbolt it as a unit or front clip minus the hood,,and running boards so i dont wreck the paint is it possible on this car?? may be easier then removing each panel sepretly,,,thanks in advance

Yep, just like Poorboy said. On my Plymouth...
Hood=2 bolts in back at the hinge, 2 in front.
1 bolt each side at the running boards.
3-4 bolts inside back edge of fenders to cowl.
2 bolts each side top back edge of fender where the hood covered
wiring that follows driver's side inner fender
Bumper, since it goes into slots in front
On mine, there is an upper inner fender that stays with the front clip, and a lower that bolts to the frame. Removeing the lower make it easier, but is not necessary.
2 large nuts and washers under the radiator support.
If there is anything that is attached to the inner fenders and motor, it will have to be disconnected from one or the other.

Soak all the bolts many times, well in advance of removal!!! You want to avoid breaking them off!

thanks for all the replys,,im hoping to not have to remove the front end,,but if i do i dont want to have to repaint the car,,,i figured some one here had already done it,,thanks again,,