Hello Andy,
I would assume Jeff @ Modern would give you some set-up tips if it's not too late. It's been a while since I had my -1's done locally for the paired T&D rockers but, the set-up looks similar. One suggestion I will make is to machine the head for a helicoil or timecert for the rocker holddowns while your at the correct hole centers. Also by the time you get the pedistals machined down to the correct height the holddown bolts MAY be too long and bottom out...so check that as well. Another thing I will throw out there is a suggestion made by 340King from another Mopar site. He recommended to machine the pedestal tops on a perpidicular plane splitting the loading angles of the pushrod and the valve. I hope that makes sense to you.

One more suggestion...the height of the pedestal should be dialed-in by the ideal roller-tip placement. I.E.-with total fore-and-aft travel=.100" ideal location at lash should be .050" intake side of the valvetip centerline. In reguard to my previous post and pedestal plane angle since you already have a base machining done and holes tapped...DISREGUARD!!! I'll leave the post unaltered for archieved future reference.

When installing the crank cog make sure to check the installation dot. Some Mopar kits had the dot in the incorrect place. I returned mine to Jesel and had them check it for me. They told me that only a few kits went out the door with the incorrect indexing. I e-mailed you the instructions that came with my beltdrive kit. I could not attatch them for some reason?

I think I'm going to go with just tapping the head for the bolts this first time and leave the extra material there for helicoil repairs if necessary down the road. The Jesel setup uses seven 7/16-14 bolts so there is a lot more clamping force than the stock setup has.

I've gotten some good help from Jesel lately. I think they sorted out internally that there weren't instructions for this kit and that there could be guys like me who aren't professional engine builders who might buy the kit. Last I heard from Jesel they were going to put some instructions for this kit up on their website.

I've been pretty happy working with the guys at Jesel so far. You can tell that they are used to working with top end professional race teams. Super professional attitude and knowledge.

I finished up the machine work today to mount the Jesel stand onto the EZ heads. I had to machine down the pads some more and then drill and tap the 7 holes for 7/16-14 thread. The bolts included in the Jesel kit are a little too long so I'm going to order new ones. I sure am glad that Jesel faxed me a blueprint. Without that I would have had a really hard time getting the holes drilled and tapped in the correct locations.

Here is a shot of the pattern left by the roller tip for .800 lift. It looks pretty good. It could be moved out on the valve stem by 0.020 or so to be perfect but there isn't any easy way to do that once the holes in the head are drilled and tapped.

Here is how the head looks after the pads have been machined down and the new holes drilled and tapped for the hold down screws. The Jesel stand uses seven 7/16-14 bolts to hold it down rather than the five 3/8-16 bolts for the factory setup.

It is a little tricky re-drilling the end holes for the larger 7/16 screws since the proper tap drill is smaller than 3/8ths. So basically a small amount of the existing threads are left in the hole and you then have to retap thru that. It cleans up okay but if you're going to run the Jesel setup you should really buy the heads setup that way in the beginning.

Here is the same head with the Jesel stand bolted in place. It is a bit of a trick to get the holes that go into the intake ports drilled to the correct depth. Basically you only want to go deep enough so the bolt goes all the way in but not any deeper since you're drilling into the intake runner wall.

will you be pushrod oiling, or using spray bar valve covers for the roller cam tests?

After all that work you will have a strong and stable valve train. With the right springs and cam, put those heads on a 383 and spin it to 9000 rpm.

I got the spray bar valve covers. I think I prefer the idea of pushrod oiling but the roller lifters that I have aren't oiler type. Also, this Jesel setup is the ball and cup pushrod (ball adjuster) and I'm not so sure that it will work with pushrod oiling. That was another variable that wasn't very clear up front.

Andy, In my own experience with this setup, you should probably go ahead and use heli-colis or thread-inserts. With large cams and the large spring pressure that goes with them, I have yet to have the threads NOT pull out of the heads, especially the end holes. I have had to make this repair so many times at the track, it is ridiculous. Now I just do them up front.

Monte

Just got some super good news from Jesel. They created instructions for this kit and posted them on their webpage. The instructions show the proper machining operations for various installed valve heights. Basically, the longer the valves are then the closer you need to move your rocker shaft to the intake side of the head.

Here is a link to the Jesel instruction page. The kit of the Indy head is INS-07238 in the middle of the page. Maybe someone knows how to link directly to a pdf document?

http://www.jeselonline.com/index.php?categoryid=49

Even more good news from Jesel. I talked with them today and they are going to make me a set of spacers so I can run exhaust rocker arms on the intake. That will give me a standard offset kit so I don't need to machine a big slot in the head for pushrod clearance. Sounds like I'll have the parts in a week or so.

Great thread...great pictures...

im using the same jessel set up on my 440-1`s they are so much better and easier to set up your valve lash.you can do each cyclinder at a time,no worring about bending or catching a pushrod from another cyclinder when hand cranking over motor to set lash.

I wrote the article you referred to in www.moparmax.com and the initial one in www.dragracingonline.com as well.

The fixture tool came with mine and I am surprised Jesel missed it on yours. Two years, ZERO problems.

We set the final plate height pretty much like you did and ended up with a very similar rocker tip print on the valve. I would recommend the offset intake roller from Comp Cams to straighten the pushrod. (We send the rollers in at 150 runs to prevent a disaster, only $165.00 for rebuild and peasce of mind.

We will be doing more and more Mopar Tech now that our newest magazine is getting over 3500 readers per day, check it our when you get a chance- www.MoparMax.com

Great series of photos and tech on your install I just read here on Moparts, nicely done.

Jok Nicholson
dragsterboy@mchsi.com

Hi Jok,

Nice to see you here. Thanks for the compliment, I've been trying to document this install so we can post it in the tech archives here.

I won't need the offset lifters though since I'm having Jesel build me a custom standard offset rocker arm kit. I'll have the parts next week and then I'll post the pictures. Since my EZ heads are setup for standard offset rocker arms I don't need the 440-1 type offset rocker arms on the intake side.

I'm going to try out the new Jesel kit on my motor and then we'll see what happens from there. Jesel might decide to make it a new product or they might just keep it as a special order kit. I think there are people who need a standard offset rocker arm kit for the SR and EZ heads but maybe I'm wrong?

I think you are right, they should offer a kit for those heads. The Jesels have been the best thing I have done to my 572. I ate up Indy rockers at about 3 per year. So I was buying a new set each year. When I talked to Jesel they said I am done replacing rockers from fatigue, 450 runs later, they are still correct!

This is a great site, enjoting looking at all the Mopar Stuff...;-)

Jok

I did a trial fit today with everything correctly dialed in. The rocker ratio is dead nuts on, the cam is easy to adjust with the Jesel belt drive, and the VP clearance is tight! I might not be able to run this big cam with the 1.70 rocker arms. Not to worry, I have a couple other cams in the drawer that I can try.