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Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: volaredon] #3290356
02/18/25 08:45 PM
02/18/25 08:45 PM
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Benton, IL.
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DaveRS23 Offline
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Originally Posted by volaredon
Got a question about an MS250 chain saw. It no longer kills when turned offa t switch. I have to choke it to get it to kill.


The kill switch typically grounds out the coil/ignition. Check continuity through the switch and look for broken wires between the switch and the magneto or coil.


Master, again and still
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: DaveRS23] #3290440
02/19/25 12:14 PM
02/19/25 12:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,820
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mopars4ever Offline
I Live Here
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AgP0pVxBYw Honestly for me I use a small touch of starting fluid on my equipment when very cold or if it has sat for long time. My snow blower starts on the first pull after a little squirt My electric start went caput from trying to start without any help.. I don`t use much. Saves me a lot of pulling.


Time just gets away from us
I`m here until I`m not
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: volaredon] #3290451
02/19/25 01:38 PM
02/19/25 01:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,841
N.E. OHIO, USA
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Originally Posted by volaredon
Got a question about an MS250 chain saw. It no longer kills when turned offa t switch. I have to choke it to get it to kill.


Easy to get to the place where the common problem or issue is. Remove the air filter housing cover and the air filter. Usually you can see the run/stop/choke lever and there you will see the metal tab for the kill contact from the coil. Most times the tab is bent or not making contact or the wire that connects there is broken. You can check this with a multimeter.

Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290459
02/19/25 02:44 PM
02/19/25 02:44 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,113
Salem
Grizzly Offline
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Salem
Mikes' starting procedure definitely works.

On my 2-Strokes: primer bulb 4 times, trigger throttle 3 times, push the de-compression button in, set choke to wide open, pull 2-3 times Summer, 3-6 times Winter. Soon as it lights, tap the throttle to disengage the choke and take it off high-idle. Works every time. Let it idle until the cylinder fins are warm to the touch, do light cuts at half throttle for 5 minutes. Then run it as hard as you want.

Few things to try Guitar that have worked for Me in no particular order:

a) Pull the fuel hose out of the tank and check it. If it's not pliable and starting to harden they can crack and cause starting issues. Not noticable with a full tank of fuel, this usually shows up after you have been working the machine for an hour. I keep extra fuel line around for this reason.

b) The air breather element on my Husky is the same color as SAWDUST. Brilliant idea, a visual inspection and it looks like the filter is perfect condition. It isn't. Mine was getting miserable to start like yours, and the filter was plugged. Even after cleaning and seeing sawdust come out of it, it still looked the same. So, blow out your element whether it needs it or not.

c) The spark arrestor screen will get plugged with 2 Stroke oil, clean it. When it's plugged they are stubborn to start.

d) Pull the spark plug and hit it with a wire brush to freshen it up and start quicker.

e) Crack the fuel cap to introduce air to the fuel tank. My Husky breathes through a tiny port in the fuel cap, it has been plugged in the past and needed clearing to get fuel to the engine.

f) Like the fuel line issue above, the primer bulbs will also get brittle and develop a leak in the fuel system. Have a look for fuel drooling from the bulb under the plastic cover.

Cold isn't the problem, 2-Strokes ALWAYS start.
Generally if the carb has a plugged passage it shows up as a stumble off idle. This happens all the time, I pull the carb off once a year and blow it out.

I don't want to say "buy a Husky", because I have looked at Stihl before........ work

Hope these suggestions help You.


Mo' Farts

Moderated by "tbagger".
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Grizzly] #3290462
02/19/25 03:22 PM
02/19/25 03:22 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
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in a cattle trailer down by th...
Originally Posted by Grizzly
Mikes' starting procedure definitely works.

On my 2-Strokes: primer bulb 4 times, trigger throttle 3 times, push the de-compression button in, set choke to wide open, pull 2-3 times Summer, 3-6 times Winter. Soon as it lights, tap the throttle to disengage the choke and take it off high-idle. Works every time. Let it idle until the cylinder fins are warm to the touch, do light cuts at half throttle for 5 minutes. Then run it as hard as you want.

Few things to try Guitar that have worked for Me in no particular order:

a) Pull the fuel hose out of the tank and check it. If it's not pliable and starting to harden they can crack and cause starting issues. Not noticable with a full tank of fuel, this usually shows up after you have been working the machine for an hour. I keep extra fuel line around for this reason.

b) The air breather element on my Husky is the same color as SAWDUST. Brilliant idea, a visual inspection and it looks like the filter is perfect condition. It isn't. Mine was getting miserable to start like yours, and the filter was plugged. Even after cleaning and seeing sawdust come out of it, it still looked the same. So, blow out your element whether it needs it or not.

c) The spark arrestor screen will get plugged with 2 Stroke oil, clean it. When it's plugged they are stubborn to start.

d) Pull the spark plug and hit it with a wire brush to freshen it up and start quicker.

e) Crack the fuel cap to introduce air to the fuel tank. My Husky breathes through a tiny port in the fuel cap, it has been plugged in the past and needed clearing to get fuel to the engine.

f) Like the fuel line issue above, the primer bulbs will also get brittle and develop a leak in the fuel system. Have a look for fuel drooling from the bulb under the plastic cover.

Cold isn't the problem, 2-Strokes ALWAYS start.
Generally if the carb has a plugged passage it shows up as a stumble off idle. This happens all the time, I pull the carb off once a year and blow it out.

I don't want to say "buy a Husky", because I have looked at Stihl before........ work

Hope these suggestions help You.


I'm not the only one that complains about starting the Stihl saws or even string trimmers for that matter. They don't have a primer bulb, that would have been too easy. When these things sit for months at a time trying to start them is like starting one new out of the box. There's a reason they start them behind closed doors before you take it home. It isn't a perception that they are hard to start, it's a reality. Of course Stihl's official position is to deny there is an issue.


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290464
02/19/25 03:49 PM
02/19/25 03:49 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,113
Salem
Grizzly Offline
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Salem
I guess your options are:

Buy a $3 primer bulb and install it,

Buy a Husqvarna.


Mo' Farts

Moderated by "tbagger".
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Grizzly] #3290473
02/19/25 04:31 PM
02/19/25 04:31 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
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in a cattle trailer down by th...
Yeah, I probably should have bought the Husqvarna, but I think I'll just buy a can of starting fluid, put a few drops of oil in the cylinder and give it a whiff. Since I just used it last week it should start when I go to use it this weekend without difficulty.


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290480
02/19/25 04:51 PM
02/19/25 04:51 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
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USA
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Underthinker Offline
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I am too bullheaded to read instructions, have afew stihl saws, 2 used ones a one pretty new. Was bitching to my local small engine friend that they are a [censored] to start, he said did you read the owners manual???!!! Um no, told me to enter my model number on you tube and sure as could be prolly 20 videos on it, I don’t have a problem anymore. I believe I was always overchoking them, plug would always be wet, should of sat and thought about it alittle.

Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Underthinker] #3290484
02/19/25 05:05 PM
02/19/25 05:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,948
Michigan
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oldjonny Offline
Don't argue with me.
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I've got an old 026, an 029 and an MS290. Have never had starting issues with any of them. Lock the trigger, fully choked, pull it until it just fires, release the choke and pull it one more time. Good to go.


Never, ever argue with an IDIOT. They will drag you to their level and then beat you with their years of experience
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: oldjonny] #3290494
02/19/25 06:08 PM
02/19/25 06:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
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in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
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Originally Posted by oldjonny
I've got an old 026, an 029 and an MS290. Have never had starting issues with any of them. Lock the trigger, fully choked, pull it until it just fires, release the choke and pull it one more time. Good to go.


My issue is with how many times I have to yank on it to get that first fire. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough. It is never 1 or 2 pulls, and probably not even 10. I have emphysema so I am out of breath pretty easily. So by the time I get it to fire I am already worn out and out of breath. I was just looking for an easier way to start it. Sorry for any confusion.


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290495
02/19/25 06:16 PM
02/19/25 06:16 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
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in a cattle trailer down by th...
I would be really interested to know how many times A12 has to yank on a new chain saw out of the box.


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290508
02/19/25 07:19 PM
02/19/25 07:19 PM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 779
Middle TN.
4x4 Roundup Offline
super stock
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Middle TN.
Originally Posted by Guitar Jones
Originally Posted by oldjonny
I've got an old 026, an 029 and an MS290. Have never had starting issues with any of them. Lock the trigger, fully choked, pull it until it just fires, release the choke and pull it one more time. Good to go.


My issue is with how many times I have to yank on it to get that first fire. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough. It is never 1 or 2 pulls, and probably not even 10. I have emphysema so I am out of breath pretty easily. So by the time I get it to fire I am already worn out and out of breath. I was just looking for an easier way to start it. Sorry for any confusion.


My current Stihl has a I'll say "spring loaded" mechanism so that the engine turns over after you release the pull rope. I don't remember what the marketing name they threw at it but it is IMO better that the traditional pull rope start, especially if the engine kicks back. Another good feature is being able to tighten the chain without using tools. I really like those two Stihl features. With that said my current Stihl can be sluggish to start and run, especially if it has sat for awhile. The afore mentioned starting mechanism makes it not as bad an ordeal as compared to the regular rope pull starting. In the past I have had a Homelite, McColloch, (sp), Pollan, Huskvarna, and a Timber Bear. The best one all around was the Huskvarna which I bought used at an estate sale for $75.
The bottom line...two stroke engines are finicky and add to that Emissions BS and the fact that they sometimes sit for long intervals between use, you just have to pick your poison. I've got a friend that really likes his electric chainsaw thus far...rant over. twocents


WANTED-- DEAD or ALIVE:
'70 Duster--- VS29H0B274908-----UPDATE---ENGINE BLOCK FOUND---Still looking for the B-5 car.
'79 Power Wagon W14JE9S137761 or 763
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: 4x4 Roundup] #3290548
02/19/25 09:53 PM
02/19/25 09:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,841
N.E. OHIO, USA
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Originally Posted by 4x4 Roundup
Originally Posted by Guitar Jones
Originally Posted by oldjonny
I've got an old 026, an 029 and an MS290. Have never had starting issues with any of them. Lock the trigger, fully choked, pull it until it just fires, release the choke and pull it one more time. Good to go.


My issue is with how many times I have to yank on it to get that first fire. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough. It is never 1 or 2 pulls, and probably not even 10. I have emphysema so I am out of breath pretty easily. So by the time I get it to fire I am already worn out and out of breath. I was just looking for an easier way to start it. Sorry for any confusion.


My current Stihl has a I'll say "spring loaded" mechanism so that the engine turns over after you release the pull rope. I don't remember what the marketing name they threw at it but it is IMO better that the traditional pull rope start, especially if the engine kicks back. Another good feature is being able to tighten the chain without using tools. I really like those two Stihl features. With that said my current Stihl can be sluggish to start and run, especially if it has sat for awhile. The afore mentioned starting mechanism makes it not as bad an ordeal as compared to the regular rope pull starting. In the past I have had a Homelite, McColloch, (sp), Pollan, Huskvarna, and a Timber Bear. The best one all around was the Huskvarna which I bought used at an estate sale for $75.
The bottom line...two stroke engines are finicky and add to that Emissions BS and the fact that they sometimes sit for long intervals between use, you just have to pick your poison. I've got a friend that really likes his electric chainsaw thus far...rant over. twocents



"Easy2Start"

Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290563
02/20/25 04:11 AM
02/20/25 04:11 AM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
Guitar Jones  Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
G

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
Originally Posted by A12
Originally Posted by 4x4 Roundup
Originally Posted by Guitar Jones
Originally Posted by oldjonny
I've got an old 026, an 029 and an MS290. Have never had starting issues with any of them. Lock the trigger, fully choked, pull it until it just fires, release the choke and pull it one more time. Good to go.


My issue is with how many times I have to yank on it to get that first fire. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough. It is never 1 or 2 pulls, and probably not even 10. I have emphysema so I am out of breath pretty easily. So by the time I get it to fire I am already worn out and out of breath. I was just looking for an easier way to start it. Sorry for any confusion.


My current Stihl has a I'll say "spring loaded" mechanism so that the engine turns over after you release the pull rope. I don't remember what the marketing name they threw at it but it is IMO better that the traditional pull rope start, especially if the engine kicks back. Another good feature is being able to tighten the chain without using tools. I really like those two Stihl features. With that said my current Stihl can be sluggish to start and run, especially if it has sat for awhile. The afore mentioned starting mechanism makes it not as bad an ordeal as compared to the regular rope pull starting. In the past I have had a Homelite, McColloch, (sp), Pollan, Huskvarna, and a Timber Bear. The best one all around was the Huskvarna which I bought used at an estate sale for $75.
The bottom line...two stroke engines are finicky and add to that Emissions BS and the fact that they sometimes sit for long intervals between use, you just have to pick your poison. I've got a friend that really likes his electric chainsaw thus far...rant over. twocents



"Easy2Start"


shock


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: Guitar Jones] #3290576
02/20/25 06:53 AM
02/20/25 06:53 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,841
N.E. OHIO, USA
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"Easy2Start"


laugh2 laugh2 wink

Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290748
02/21/25 10:48 AM
02/21/25 10:48 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,841
N.E. OHIO, USA
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What in my opinion happens when starting in the full choke position is the operator hears or feels that first burp, "pop" or the engine's attempt to fire and doesn't stop but continues to pull the starter cord in the full choke position. Even one more pull or attempt to try and start beyond this first "pop" will FLOOD THE ENGINE.



GO TO THE 3:30 POINT FOR THE STARTING INFO or watch the entire video. Both videos and many more say the same as I have on starting.

The point is if the saw does not start using this same method or routine as in the videos and my explanation then there is something mechanical or electrical out of adjustment or wrong. Most EFI systems on cars and trucks will not start pumping the throttle and holding the throttle pedal a quarter or half throttle pedal down.

If you guys want to "tune" the carburetor to its best and have a small engine inductive digital tach let me know especially if the engine bogs after getting to operating temperature?

Last edited by A12; 02/21/25 12:54 PM.
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290762
02/21/25 12:35 PM
02/21/25 12:35 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 28
USA
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Underthinker Offline
member
Underthinker  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2021
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USA
My 2 old stihls were given to me from my father in law, no manual came with them, absolutely hated using them because I couldn’t get them started. Figuring they were old I simply put up with it, after watching afew videos they now start easily. Not sure about other brands because these were all I have ever had, good luck, it’s almost embarrassing having to admit this but wish I would have known this a lot earlier!

Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290772
02/21/25 12:57 PM
02/21/25 12:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,841
N.E. OHIO, USA
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Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290795
02/21/25 03:13 PM
02/21/25 03:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,723
Benton, IL.
D
DaveRS23 Offline
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DaveRS23  Offline
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Benton, IL.

I understand Stihl's starting procedure; Pull it a few times with the choke on until it fires, loads up and dies. Then crank it another time or two with the choke off to clear it. Then hope you don't kill it the first time you give it the gas. I always thought that the choke was too much. A little less and it may well start but not immediately load up and die. But I never messed with it. Especially if it sits for months, it can be a LOT more than 2 or 3 pulls to get (and keep) it going.

So rather than try to outguess the thing, I give it a little shot of starting fluid and we are off to the races. EVERY time with no more than a pull or two.

My most recent saw purchase was an Echo. It does not require a special procedure to start. I only give it a 'whiff' if it has sat for many months. The Stihl gets it pretty much every time it has sat any length of time.

The Stihl has been a very good saw. A real workhorse. It can just be a pain to start. And at my age, I just want the dam thing to start and run with no drama.

.


Master, again and still
Re: Still chainsaws, who has 'em and... [Re: A12] #3290803
02/21/25 04:21 PM
02/21/25 04:21 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
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Guitar Jones Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
Guitar Jones  Offline OP
Paddle faster! I hear banjo music!
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,635
in a cattle trailer down by th...
I follow the official starting procedure every time and like an insane person I expect a different outcome. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Like I said, getting that initial blurp is the problem after it has sat for several months, but once I get that, it starts, runs and idles flawlessly. It sat for 4 or 5 months before this last time. I have in the past resorted to pulling the plug and adding a few drops of fuel in the cylinder, reinstalling the plug and then it starts within 2or 3 pulls. This last time I had to clamp the handle in a vise so I could yeet on the cord. Started pretty quickly after that but I had been yanking on it for 10 minutes prior.

I know you get them started with this procedure but keep in mind before you got it someone was already frustrated and tired of yanking on it, it probably sat in your warm shop for several hours or days before you touched it. Leave your farm boss out in the cold for 5 months, add fresh fuel and then honestly tell us how many times you have to yank on it before you get that first fire.


"Come get your wife"


'92 D250 Club Cab CTD, 47RH conversion, pump tweaks, injectors, rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
'74 W200 Crew Cab 360, NV4500, D44, D60 and NP205 divorced transfer case. Front and rear disc and hydroboost conversion.
2019 1500 Long Horn Crew Cab 4WD, 5.7 Hemi.
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