I'd like to know about the electrical side of the pump. Is it losing power? Just not enough power?

Looking for some suggestions here
My gauge isnt great but it's new and currently accurate. I'll upgrade to a better gauge soon

Fuel system
Barry Grant 280 pump with -10 ports
Stock 65 gas tank with welded in sump
Moroso -8 inline fuel filter
Maga fuel four port regulator with return
Lines from tank to regulator are -8
Lines from regulator to carbs are -6
Two Holley 450's on a 383 tunnel ram.
Tank recently dropped and cleaned out.
I don't see anything in the fuel filter
Cap is vented

Once the fuel pressure drops to zero in the vid, I shut the pump off then back on and the fuel pressure comes back.

I'm thinking there is something in the tank blocking the sump port, but before I dig back into that does anyone see anything wrong with the fuel system hard part selection? ( Aside from the gauge 😏)

Appreciate any thoughts. This vid is about 1/2 throttle...... It's a bit cold and damp out

https://youtu.be/CR9SMVem7T4?si=5GneXC8UN8ZKau8K

I'll share an experience I had many years ago, with my Hemi car.
1/2" fuel line starting at the tank pickup, had the tank out for some reason at a buddy's shop.
Car would run great for awhile, and then starve for fuel & quit.
After sitting for a minute or two, would start right up & run great again for a while, then repeat.
I went through everything, no change, and eventually pulled the sending unit and peered into the tank with a flashlight.
I saw a shop towel in there. I figured it was getting sucked to the pickup hose and blocking supply.
I'd been pranked.
Removed the rag and all was well.

I still owe that guy a payback, but I live in fear of a Karma strike...

Good ole BG280 pump! Such memories of mine doing the same thing as yours!

Has it ever worked in your application?

Will try to keep my story short. Back when you were able to buy these new, I put one on my race car. Ran high 10's. Worked great. Sprung a leak under warranty. Get it back and it acted just like yours. Basically lost all pressure going down the track. I did fuel flow testing by metering into a gas can with a ball valve. Turn it on and its good then all of a sudden it goes into resonance and starts sputtering instead of flowing. Increase it more and it was fine. The gauge feeding the regulator went crazy. BG had no clue. Sent me a new pump. Same problem. They ended up replacing the BG280 with a BG400. Still running it today.

I'm afraid if you have the same problem as mine, you have a fundamental pump design issue that you will only solve with a different pump. At last I never figured it out. It is a Chinese copy so they never really understood the design detail of the pump and probably got something wrong in the copy. Only difference with yours is you have a return line so it could be a different situation. I would recommend a ball valve test.

So you are running a single -8 from the tank to the pump? That won't work. And don't use 2 -8s to the pump. Use at least a single -10. And make sure that pump inlet is below the sump outlet. Otherwise you do risk pump cavitation.

The sump only has 1/2 ports.

What kind of 1/2" ports? NPT?

Looking for some suggestions here
My gauge isnt great but it's new and currently accurate. ....
Once the fuel pressure drops to zero in the vid, I shut the pump off then back on and the fuel pressure comes back.



https://youtu.be/CR9SMVem7T4?si=5GneXC8UN8ZKau8K

I'm only seeing about 3.5 psi at the beginning of that pull , if your gauge is accurate isn't that kinda low , pressure is a resistance to flow so if you have 4 bowls calling for fuel all at the same time and only 3.5 psi ????

I might be wrong , but just an observation ....

He also said to disconnect one fuel line and set the fuel pressure with that one hose flowing into a bucket at 5.0 up to 5.5 lbs. of pressure flowing, that did make the car faster a tiny bit.